Conor

None are adequate. I suggest I creasing cavity to 150mm and going full full, as a minimum.

Worth getting a cordless grinder of you've a lot of jobs on. Really handy tool. Oh, and one with variable speed. Allows really good, clean cuts.

With the colour matched silicone, you don't need to paint. Painting sucks.

Sanitary silicone. Ideally colour matched to your grout.

If the window isn't on the principle elevation or overlooking anybody, it'll be a non-material amendment. We made a few such tweaks as we went along and architect advised bundling them all together as a single NMA. E.g. removing a window, narrowing another, putting in double patio doors instead of a garage style, and a sidelight on a back door.

do it right: https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/help-and-advice/product-guides/underground-drainage/what-is-an-inspection-chamber/

We have a section running over a brick wall. Solution was to cast a 200 x400mm RC head, tied in to the brick wall below with 12mm dowels. Concrete on face will be covered with alu cladding, same as the steel section.

Our SE said the ballustrade channel must be fixed to the steel. So we have full height glass ballustrade on top of the steel, fixed with M14 bolts. Still a work in progress.

Sounds like an awful lot of work for a small space - assuming you're talking about making part of the structure of the house? Would be difficult to make it dry and warm. If it were me, I'd build a simple roof over it and have it as an external lean-to store.

All the grey pipes and joints replaced with orange. An inspection chamber where the bend is. Pipes supported on a bed of fine stone <10mm (or whatever the local requirement is) and covered with same before backfilling. Tbh it's more of a job for a groundworker than a plumber. No offense to any competent plumbers reading this 🤣 It'll cost you more now, but will save you the hassle of digging it all up again in a few years time.

Can't have a data / LV cable in same duct as a mains voltage / DC cable - if there is damage to the mains cable, power could enter the neighbouring unprotected circuit. You can put them in individual flexible ducts within the single 100mm duct.

It's a bodge. I'm not even sure that that grey pipe is underground rated, it's normally orange/brown. I'd take it all out.

You should put an inspection chamber at that bend and get rid of that vertical pipe, whatever it's doing there.

Is this another external tap? Don't bring the pipe inside at all, run it around the outside of the house.

You need to establish a consistent fall from the start of the pipe run, all the way to the next chamber. If it is just at a pipe joint, you might get away with excavating a couple metres either side, cutting the pipe and inserting a new section. Other than that, there's no way to adjust a buried pipe unless you excavate the entire length. You can simply lift one end and fill underneath it.

Maybe. Looks more like hemp or something coarser than asbestos. Unless you're planning on taking a grinder or belt sander to them, nothing to worry about either way

I find an electronic level set on top of an aluminium straight edge works far better. Even the £10 compact one I got from Amazon give better results than either of my long levels. For lengths over 2m I usually just whip out the laser level and use a tape measure to set the opposite end.

Planning won't care who I stalls the heatpump, just where it is. Ours is 90° to where was agreed but so far no complaints

Hot does the shower seat mount? I made my own out of ply and made sure it was wide enough to screw in to a stud on each side.

You can fit 22x38mm battens to the inside of the studs so you can fit 100mm PIR in-between. An afternoon with a nailgun. An alternative to 63mm insulated PB is 50mm PIR fixed to the studs, taped, then normal PB. More labour for you but straightforward.

Negligible, now you can sleep at night.

Insurance is to cover you for unforseen events. Waiting for somebody to say you're in breach means that no insurance company will touch you as you and the insurer KNOW you'll be sued if you proceed. It's like taking out car insurance mid way through a crash.

I bet the pipe was kinked / pinched at some point before install and the water pressure has gradually pushed through the weakened points.

Get the nonsense leveller from Screwfix, comes in two version, get the one that matches your buildup. Used it loads of times.

So, full strip, replacement of some timbers, refelt, batten and redo the tiles. And probably soffit, fascia and gutters while you're at it. £££