Conor

No, you just nee d to ensure you compact it in max 100mm layers. Hire a 12" whacker from the likes of Speedy or HSS for a weekend. I think the key here is making sure everything, including the pond in-fill, is really well compacted. How are the existing slabs laid? Directly on to sand? Best to match that method with the new bit. And make sure you figure out the fall on the existing section and match it with the new one, you dont want water ponding between the two areas.

We found a guy on Facebook that we just call each time and he collects up all our scrap metal. Doesn't pay us, but saves us the bother of having to gather the stuff up and get rid of it. Time is money. He does this in his own time after work for extra cash, and I'm happy to give him the business.

Need a bit more info as Declan says. Type of screed? Were the insulation boards firmly in place, taped and polythene sheet over the top (rocking boards or air gaps will cause issues))? Was there a perimeter upstand expansion strip fitted(if not, when the screed expands due to heat, it'll compress and crack)? What was the weather like during and after the laying (too hot and dry in the days following can be an issue).

Next year I think Trev. We did a basic lawn this year but there's still loads of work to do so I didn't even place any ducts. We've simplified the cascade plan to a single run, starting with a boggy planted area, then an open swale with gravel bed and lots of planting. Total run should be a good 25m so plenty of opportunity for water filtration, meaning the actual pond can be 80% deep area and we can extend a boardwalk around it.

@Trevorh that's the book I've been reading. We don't have a huge are for the deep pond and associated regeneration area, so I'm going for a separated layout with water pumping up from the deep pond to a series of shallow, gravel filtering regeneration areas, linked with bioswales and channels. We also want running water and small water features close to the hosue, and we have plenty of fall to work with, so win-win. A project for next year tho.

You'll never get that. It'll be 18-20c almost all of the time, through every room in the house, regardless of what heating plan you have. Our bedroom is always in that range. We just use a light summer douvet all year round, and sleep on top of it a fair bit. It's different mindset and you kinda have to live it to understand. I wear shorts and t shirt most of the time inside, all year. Only in the office room I'd need to stick a hoodie on for in the winter as it's mostly glass and doesn't have heating, so would be 16c in the morning. And all this for about 1/4 the heating cost of a "normal" house.

We've 25mm quarry stone down as a temporary measure. It's doesn't move. At £250 a lorry load, can't do it cheaper. We might put a decorative layer over the top at some point, but it's fine.

Obviously not finished. One panel fixed, other is a top hung slider. Rarely closed.

That was my instinct. Cheers.

About to fit our 1400mm fixed shower screen. Going to sit directly on the tiled floor. As anything, not perfectly level or flat. The instructions reference and "optional" bottom seal https://www.drench.co.uk/p/crosswater-gallery-8-glass-bottom-seal Which of course the bathroom company didn't include in our order. Do I just set the glass panel directly on the tiles and silicone around? Or should run a bead of silicone under so the glas isn't directly on the tiles?

Ahhh I understand now. For the money, an on-roof is coming is 30% cheaper than in-roof? Makes sense. Saving for in-roof comes in to play with the likes of slates that cost more.

How are you getting more generation from on roof rather compared to in-roof? You can put the GSE panels right up to the ridge and down to the gutter. What's the total size of your PV install?

Depends, what's under the stone? If it's well compacted rubble, then the stone is just there to provide an even surface for the next layer. But normally 100mm of stone, then 25-50mm blinding is normal. Btw, 100mm insualtion isn't really enough for UFH, but I think you're past the point of digging down further?

It costs very little to put an extra couple loops in to bathrooms. We have provision for electric towel rads but never bother wiring them up. The UFH works well. Put it in your bedrooms as well, again, very little cost, much else than having to buy panel heaters for all your rooms at a later date. We have one room where we didn't put UFH in and only part of the setup I regret. It's easy just to turn the flow down to individual rooms or off all together to get the temps right.

Our 350m² house require about 40kWh of heat per day during he winter. That equates to 6hrs of the ashp running. UFH on all three floors, running as two zones (basement seperatly zone to rest of the house). UFH pipes in most rooms, at 200mm spacing. I wouldn't change the setup at all. With a 500m² house and a huge amount of glazing you'll need a substantial enough heat input, and cooling in the summer. Min 12kW ASHP. You'll need to do a detailed heat loss calculation. I reccomended getting somebody to put it through PHPP.

Only just noticed this. Effectively means you've no hallway and all that space is considered kitchen. All other rooms will need their own escape routes. Our design was very similar, so we put up internal sliding doors between the kitchen and hall to show kitchen closed off from rest of building. They are never closed 😀

We went with LV (via a broker who got a better price than the online one) who don't ask for the build construction (we're ICF.) Was about £250.

You still need a window for rapid ventilation. Swap it for an inward opening tilt and turn.

Sorry to say, it's awful, and needs to come off. You might just have to cut your losses with this guy and get hold of a real roofer. This is how it should have looked after laying. I did use 25% more resin than required tho...

My dad built his glasshouse base and small garden walls on a base of concrete blocks on their flat on top of a layer of quarry dust. Nothing moved or cracked. Bricks directly on the ground will definitely move and crack. You need a little more.

If it's an unvented system, turn the legionaries cycle off, really not needed with treated mains water. And try your setpoint at 45c, rather than 50c.

Yes . Normally a 25mm tapping or "ferrule" on to the main and a dedicated 25mm MDPE pipe to each property.

3. Just fit them and caulk the gaps.

Slightly over a year here. Fails to sync and detect load. The boost button fell off at the very start. Not rated at all.

I've sheets that have been sitting outside in the elements for over a year that look way better than those. Looks like all the walls will have to come down?!!!