Conor

To get round this, I poured a 200mm thick concrete base for the landing/ramp 5o get us up to FFL. NB, BCO might want to pave all the way to the front of the house. The purpose is to enable a wheel chair user to access from the entrance / parking spot.

Kitchen can't be open to the ret of the house, or you need to take extra fire precautions. We ditched the idea and instead made a large first floor landing. Love it

Yes, NI, so a bit different from England/Wales.

My default is 5mm for anything doing something substantial (shelves, weight bearing structures) and 3.5mm for lighter applications.

It's not right, I agree. But when we're talking mms, either BCO needs to turn a blind eye or you need a pragmatic solution that doesn't take the piss. All of our upstairs windows are about 25-35mm lower than the min height (due to needing thicker screed). Thankfully all involved saw that ripping out and replacing half a dozen windows was not the solution. I think these these are a bit more analogue than digital.

We had ridge beams. The collar ladder formed our drop ceiling which took all our services.

Might add, ceilings below are vaulted and we have counterbattened the underside - 25x50mm running across the panels, then 50x50mm running over to give the service void. 5hink this goes someway to dampening sounds as forms partial airgap. You'll need at least one batten if you are boarding to corm a finished ceiling. Also be mindful of max span, something like 3.6m. We were about 4.2m span so had to build in a "collar ladder" for strength. Detailed in the documents.

Not at all, if they are enclosed. You'll find in some cases unavoidable, e.g. you can't seem to get long radius rest bends in black (locally for me, anyway). There's generally a better selection of fittings in the underground range, e.g. 11.25 bends and Y junctions.

Build the step. Remove it once BC have signed off, if it annoys you. A colleague of mine had to do that on all his first floor windows as there were all slightly too high. The contradiction of the planning condition will only matter of it is raised to planning. If you think the affected neighbour would notice and care, then take that in to consideration.

Not a bother with it. Cant hear a thing during heavy rain.

We boarded our block wall and tanked using the mapai kit from Screwfix. Tape and loads of tanking compound on the board joins. Siliconed the gap between the board and the screed, then taped over. Seems to be working.

You've various options. Split level, building up. digging down to match the lower level and getting another story in. For accessibility you'd probably want to match the floor levels, so building up. You'd be best getting an architect/designer round for a professional opinion. They can also advise on best options for planning. Any photos?

You'll get condensation on the face of the boards unless you have a vapour control barrier underneath. Last thing you want in an old building.

Somebody will pay for the camper vans. Same for the scrap metal.

Yes.

I bolted my manifold to a length of 4x2, screwed either end to a stud. Simply unscrewed it when it came to boarding time. It just hung forward and board went in behind. The screwed manifold directly to the wall.

I did this, but dropped the pipes down in to the insualtion then back out again, for added protection. And in flexible conduit.

I'd batten out first using either 25mm or 50mm, depending on what services you need to get up there. Then you can fit the boards easily with the correct screws and spacing. How did you fix the ceoltex to the rafters?

Don't rinse. Waste of water, the machines do that for you. Just scrape.

I did a mix of the two, depending on the shape and size of the room. Can't notice any difference in performance from room to room.

The discharge from the machine is pumped, as long as you're not going uphill above the unit, distance isn't an issue. Our machine came with a 2m hose and I cut it down.

Forget about reusing the felt. Redo the roof as is but with EPDM and the ponding won't matter. Or two, fit new firring strips, reboard, fascias, and new roof covering to remove the fall issue. That's what I'd do.

Makes a lot more sense just to put 100mm on the outside.

Can't see that looking good at all, I'm afraid. And you've the issue of penetrations for lights etc that won't be sealed. You could use PIR under the joists , tape, the. Batten out and board under. Gives you a void to run your wiring etc.

We used 25x50mm battens