Conor

Lindab.

EPC can be done once airtightness test has been done.

Just need to allow for the pressure drop, iicr about the same as an extra 2m of duct, if talking about 80mm semi rigid.

You don't need 22mm for a shower. You can go 25mm MDPE to 22mm copper, then split down to individual 15mm pipes via a small manifold if you wish.

Yeah, brass 25mm to 15mm stock is easiest and cheapest way. Remember reinforcing insert on the MDPE for the compression fitting.

Have the fall all heading to the back using firring strips on top of the roof rafters. Easy.

None. I've a load that have been sorting out in the rain for a year or more and no signs of rust.

^tl;Dr What temp have you the hot water set to and is there a immersion heater involved?

Float the concrete to the right height. Let it set. Then fix the wall plates down after using LONG concrete bolts or chemical resin bolts. I think the bolts our guys used were something like M12, 200mm long. His impact wrench was bigger than my SDS drill! He had had the face of the timber machined to the roof angle. Also left the insution on the inner leaf higher than required, it was.later.trimmed down to the tight height, again, matching the roof angle. Meant less filling on the inside.

Most mixers work at those temps. All of ours do. Just the manufacturer's don't state this. And sterilisation not needed on a modern closed system.

The signal from the stat might not be reaching the receiver (assuming wireless?) Manually boost (press up arrow to a few degrees above the ambient), go to the boiler and see if it fires up. I find the signal range pathetic and the general performance of the NeoAirs to be terrible and generally unreliable. Don't spend more money on them.

For that amount of glass, you want the best glazing and system you can get, or else it'll be very hot and very cold. Allow £20k+ Have you hade a full heatloss / thermal model done of the design? And does it allow for that amount of glass? We have 5m x 2.7m triple glazed bifolds that came in at £12k, two years ago.

Ohhh can't remember when we did ours. It was at least 50/50. Maybe 25/75 water to PVA.

PVA all the way

We had a floor fitter do our herring bone. No way would I have attempted it. Requires skill and patience in bundles. I'll take a look at how he did around our gables.

Our guys cut them in situ with a circular saw. Whole blocks as usual, set ridge height, wooden battens down to wall plates, cut off anything above with circular saw.

I wouldn't bother, just have a length of flexible piping the clamp on to a radiator drain valve. You just make sure the end of the house is below the lowest point in the system and it'll drain fine. You'll likely be flushing out anyways so not an issue

MDPE doesn't need to be in a duct, wall thickness allows for a bit rough action. And you don't need to take the old length out, just is a coupler and bury it after pressure testing.

These sound more like central heating manifolds? I used these. 22mm copper straight in one end, 15mm PERT out. Can't be faulted. Apart from the fiddly demounting tools. Also come in 10mm for runs to wash basins or WCs.

What's the heat source and are there any radiators on the system? Sounds like there's corrosion going on somewhere or contamination.

Is it just me or do the pipes and the flow indicator tubes look a bit brown? Is there inhibitor in the system? Could be crud built up somewhere.

Just sister it up with a similar size piece of timber on one side. Or even ply as Joe suggests.

Duct tape?!

Depends... Is this pipe before or after the meter box? If before, it's the gas company that need to be contacted. If after, then suggest the neighbours gas safe registered plumber moves it with your friend's consent. The builder owner might need to be notified as well, if it's leasehold.

Take the panel off and there will be a label or stamp on the tub.