Conor

Are the windows internorm as well? For our 2.4x2m window, they specced it with the thicker frame and 40mm glazing unit. It's toughened as well, it's not going anywhere. Yours should be the same as it was done automatically through the specifying software they use.

I used a couple shelf brackets

Is this the finished shower surface? How are you going to waterproof the patch? You'll have to use something that won't shrink.

That's just old lime render. You'd want to replace like for like.

I really wouldn't bother putting in services until after the foundations are done. Maybe the main connection runs to sewer / soakaway etc, but nothing near the building. Chances of something being on the wrong place are too high, as well digger smashing something.

Spray foam insualtion has one of the highest embedded carbon levels of any insualtion, cellulose has one of the lowest. Even though you need more of the cellulose, it's still way lower. Never mind one come from trees, and the other comes from an oil refinery.

I'd assume it would need planning permission, and highways / LA will be informed through that process. You'll likely need an SE to advise on the methodology.

Quooker 3 in 1 flex. I'm not paying £50 for one of these https://www.quooker.co.uk/cold-water-filter-cartridge.html Am I right in thinking this is actually a universal Harvey screw in fitting? Would this work? https://filterflair.co.uk/products/omnipure-q5586-10-gac-replacement-filter Or https://amzn.eu/d/ccIntMP ??

Out the walls and up through the roof. Give us an overview of your insulation, glazing etc. You're burning a lot of gas. The heat is going in to the house. Then it's leaving at a rate too high to let your rooms get to comfortable temp. It's nothing to do with your carpet.

What's the story below? what kind of underlay? Old subfloor or newly laid screed/concrete? What temp is your UFH running at? Looks like some sort of moisture problem causing the boards to swell at the joins.

Cement board and render.

To go up 6 points in that range might not be hard, and definitely no need to go back to planning. E.g Glazing - does you EPC assume mid range double glazing? Go triple and that will get you a few points. Air tightness - what has your EPC assumed? 5? Drop it to 3 and that will make a difference. PV - adding a couple pkW will get you there. None of the above will need to go planning or require resubmission to BC, and wont add major costs to the project. For construction drawings for the builder, they are minor tweaks and in mostly the notes/schedule, rather than drawing change. BTW, this phase is the worst. Once you get started you'll soon forget the previous two years and you'll have a new lease of life and enthusiasm. Our initial design was 85B. We got to 97A as-built by getting windows down from 1-1.2 to 0.8-1, walls from 0.15 to 0.13, changing oil boiler to ASHP, adding 4.5pKW of solar panels, and air test from 5 down to 1.5.

I think planners have bigger things to worry about. A slight change to the detail won be an issue. Assuming you're not in a conservation area or similar.

Went for downdraft hob. Far better.

We had a few, no issues as long as there is the vat number on it. Letters are good

Impossible to tell from the drawing. It should be detailed elsewhere. that looks like a planning drawing, rather than a construction drawing, should be detailed in a schedule or note, and a section drawing will give the dimensions and shape of the overhang etc. some snippets from ours: In the end, we went for a smaller overhang, boxed in, and rendered over. Looks the business. This is all joinery and kind of design change you can make along the way without too much drama.

I used both, sealant and tape. But try and find ones with rubber gaskets, so much handier.

New build or existing? Heatlosses will be a massive factor. In our new house, two zones, just on a dumb timer / room stat. No need for smart apps or multiple zones. Temperature through house is uniform. The key thing for a boiler will be able to run in the optimum condensing temp range, and not short cycling.

A few weeks delay for a lifetime of lower energy bills and emissions? Sounds like a deal to me. I can guarantee you you'll get no silly behaviour from Ecology, one of the best experiences with a financial institution for us.

By off, do you mean standby or fully powered off?

I've tried all sorts of combos. Currently three ~24" monitors, perfect for me. If you use lots of ssingle window applications like excel, word etc, then I find having a adequately sized monitor dedicated to a single window is better than trying to split larger screens.

Search here for Jeremy Harris' heat loss calculator. Not used it myself (Architect used PHPP) but people here say it's spot on.

Have you considered demolition and building a new house? Sounds like you're at about the tipping point where it's potentially a more cost effective option. Even if it costs more, the end product will be superior. If not, a 50mm cavity is next to useless. If you are rendering, a ~100mm of EWI then a silicon/acrylic render system would be the way to go.

I've a couple meross WiFi thermometers / hygrometers and smart plugs that monitor energy consumption. The plugs are full 13amp and can be set on schedules or remotely turned on or off. No hub or subscriptions needed. All work really well.

What's the fall? Looks a bit flat.