Conor

My Elica hob has just arrived. The duct out kit that comes with it has 220x90mm duct. Our floor build up is 150mm precast slabs with 100mm screed (50mm TLA, 50mm liquid) and finally 18mm hardwood floor. This means the duct will be within the depth of the screed floor but with only 10mm on top to the underside of the wooden floor. The duct will be installed after the screeding is finished. Can I just pour 10mm of self leveller over the duct and then lay the wooden floor? Will the PVC duct be OK?! I'm worried about the duct collapsing and floor moving. I'm thinking I might need to build some sort of ply channel to protect the duct and forgo the self leveller on top. I could go down through the precast slab to the basement ceiling void but it's a nightmare of electrc cable cages and more than one MVHR duct blocking the exit route. Would mean a duct run of at least 8m which is not ideal.

It's the enthalpy heat exchanger. it's retains a lot more humidity than a standard counterflow. Turn it up a notch and see if that makes any difference. But you'll always have a higher RH. We've just got the house water and airtight and some heating on. No MVHR yet... currently 89% RH

Don't touch the vermiculite. Removing loose insulation is a fool's game. Trust me, I've done it. Stick 300mm of mineral wool on top and job is done. You'll need loft stilts/legs if you want to use the space for storage. Not too big a job - there's plenty of topics on it here if you search.

Yes, definitely.

Pretty much what John says. One other slight negative is you have double the wall penetrations.

Is it possible the movement had already happened but you didn't notice it? As echoed above, you'd want to get some acrows in, jack up the ridge and stick some rafters in. A day's work. A few straps on the wall plate would be nice as well.

We ordered Quooker tap and Elica hob from Donaghy's this morning, arriving tomorrow. The rest of our ovens, washing machine, dishwasher and fridge freezer are all in stock at Curry's and we're going in to the store this week to order for delivery next week. Mix of Bosch, AEG and Beko. There's plenty out there, as long as you aren't fussy!!!!

Yes. Tho I think we've enough for the current floors, but will need your box for the basement.

Not nearly as neat as @Nickfromwales work but we're getting there. Plumber has already told me off for not going close enough to the bi-folds ?‍♂️ How important is it to insulate the flow pipes out of the manifold? And for how long? I've 4 flow and 4 return going through the one doorway and narrow route through the kitchen. We've only 40/50mm of liquid screed so I'm not sure we've the depth for insualtion. Flexible conduit?

That was my first thought actually. Think I'll get both and do a couple small patches first. Don't want to get this wrong...

Ah, good call on the double sided tape.

We had a white knight for years, brilliant machine. I'm not so sure of the running cost now, as the efficiency of heatpump driers is much better than old generations, and you don't need a hole in your wall leaking heat!!

I've a couple small strips of structural steel to insulate with aerogel before floor screed goes down. The supplier has recommended Tech-7 or similar hybrid adhesive. I always find it a mess to work with and I want the cloth laid as flat as possible. Any suggestion for something less tacky and thick? E.g can be sprayed, brushed or rolled on.

Yes, if it's in your planning application. Same with anything else related to landscaping. Except gnomes.

You could put an extra duct in for the drier and connect i directly like you say? Can't see an issue with that and will keep humidity from excaping.

I'm sure the MVHR could deal with the humidity of the drier when it's in use. I wouldn't be cutting a hole in your airtight house for a drier that migh not be used very much! I've been told that a properly setup drying area with an MVHR gets clothes fully dry in less than 12hours.

Modern heat pump or condensing driers don't have vent pipes and passive ventilation is enough -unless you're installing a gas drier? We're doing the same and just have a standard MVHR extract point in the laundry room.

Fairly close..they weren't shy!

That's exactly what my builders did when applying the tanking membrane to our slab. It was just a strip along the fillet between the slab and wall, so they used a handheld butane torch.

I used this one and tweaked it a bit http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=14912

I have a reolink argus eco with solar panel. Works well (when I don't drop the thing and break the mount). Connects to my site WiFi 4g hotspot.

6mm² DC cables. You need two per string. They need to be labelled as well.

Work of art.

We have everything in the ceiling void. From the basement buffer tank, the 22mm pipes go though a service cavity and along the ceiling voids to the manifold. Only thing in the floor is ufh pipes and the odd bit of waste pipe.

Cheers @Nickfromwales It's mostly counterflow spiral (in loopcad speak) and standard serpentine for some smaller rooms. About 80/20. I'll order an extra box - just wanted a sense check in case I was off by an order of magnitude or something!!! I'm using PERT EVOH barrier pipe - I've heard that I'll also need to staple the bends down as well? We're going to on top of thermal lightweight aggregate (TLA) and polythene sheet.