Conor

As above, open the boundary box. If there is a red (blank) , grey or yellow (trickle) bung on top of the meter manifold, then you'll need to replace it with a standard white one. Eg.

Plug each optimiser in turn to the panel and make sure you get the nominal 1volt at the cables before the inverter. A basic check but the first one to do.

You can just use air admittance valves on the stacks. Just hide in a cupboard or false wall or ceiling void. There's nothing in the BC regs saying you must have have an SVP. Some here have pointed out that you may still have issues with positive air pressure building up, an air admittance valve will not mitigate this.

I'm weird, I'm doing 50mm EPS and 150mm PIR.

That all means nothing to me. Keep this up David and you'll be over setting this up for ?

About to buy the control gubbins for our ufh system. Coolenergy ashp to buffer then three manifolds, each own zone. Are there wireless thermostats/controllers that can be set for cooling? I'm aware of have to manually set the ashp to cool the buffer tank. Cheers.

As somebody who spent days/weeks doing exactly this.... Don't bother. Take a digger to the whole lot. It's not worth the time/money/life to strip a roof unless you have valuable slates or similar. Between mobile tower and telehandler, stripping our roof cost just shy of £1k. I got £850 for the slates.

All of our ply in the basement got mildew within days. The sheets I picked up from the builders merchants the other day came pre applied with mould.... For whatever reason mildew and fungal mould love cheap softwood ply. It'll stop growing once heating is one and humidity drops.

@luz624 still not in yet I'm afraid.

That's exactly what we did. In hindsight, we'd do it the other way round as screed drying is now a limiter for us finishing off the house. Will take at least another month or two to be dry enough to fit the wood floor.

If the building is ongoing and the work is not done properly, get your builder to redo it to the required spec at his cost. Check your drawings. If it were me, I'd have the builder remove the boards, and pump cavity with platinum EPS beads. That will get you to about 0.22-0.25. Going down the route of external or internal wall insualtion is huge money in comparison.

Next question. This is the hand shower and the wall plate elbow. I'm assuming the shower fitting will have to be fully tightened in to the elbow fitting for it to be sealed? So then I'd need to get the positioning of the elbow exactly right?

Job done. Phase 1 anyway.

Saxton are very good for the money

So, looks like 1/2" thread. Makes things easier. Would these work? https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-plastic-push-fit-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x/5970f

Perfect. So can I assume mine is 3/4"? SO just need the wall plate elbows, short section of 22mm pipe then reduce to 15mm? I've already pulled the 15mm pipework through the studs so that can't change at this stage.

My plumbing expertise stops at anything involving threaded fittings, basically anything that's not push fit. i'm forced in to the position of having to fit our cross water two way valve mixer, shower head and hand shower. All my pipework is 15mm PET. The valve box has threaded female brass ports: They seem to be about 18-20mm internally. 3/4" BSP? Blanking plugs that fit in to unused ports: I just need the right fittings to get from that too 15mm pipe Now, the shower arms. The are the same size thread as the ports. How do I fit these to the wall? A thin timber ground with backing nut? there's not much thread to work with and our stud build up is 18mm ply, 12.5mm PB, tanking, 12mm tiles. I'm thinking I'll need to put a strip of ply instead of PB

You need something to deal with the grease when frying. We're having a recirculating downdraft hob.

Can't remember the names as Denise was dealing with it all. A couple companies that were reccomended didn't even bother pricing the two that did we're guys that work on their own. We were close to getting something from Pear stairs until they clarified that they'd only deliver to a port in England and we'd need to arrange the onward transport to here. Can't be bothered with that.

We'd originally wanted a cut string oak staircase with either glass ballustrade or thin metal spindles. The prices we got from local companies was crazy, £8k+. We're going to he carpeting the thing and painting the string anyway so now thinking a normal flight but high quality, creak free. A step up from builders merchants MDF offerings. And get the glass ballustrade locally. Any reccomendations for an online company that does good quality pine type stairs?

Mate got quotes back for extension and renovation. Double what he expected.... His dad is a QS!!! One builder openly said that he's put on 30% on top of his current costs to cover expected rises over the next 6 months. We can't get a tiler for love nor money. My plumber is only available for two days in January. Digger driver can only do weekends and odd half day. Really hard to get any decent progress.

Temp has been steady at 18c and humidity at 85% for a couple days now. It's 10c outside and 80% humidity... so I've opened every door and window for a couple of hours to get the air changed. In other news... I'm chuffed that five small dehumidifiers (300/500W) and a 1kW fan heater are enough to get the house to 18c!!!

We started kitchen fitting 10 days after screed poured. They've only fitted the carcasses so the worktops can be templated. They say its too damp to fit the door fronts or the the gables and won't be back until the new year. I'm frantically heating and drying the house out!!! If your guys fit the kitchen, make sure they leave the kick boards off so the screed under can dry out. I also see you have freshly plastered walls - are units going up against these walls as well?! Get you UFH on and windows open as soon as the screed company say it's safe to do so.

That's the key thing. Outside RH is always 90% or more here. So will be a matter of seeing if the MVHR incoming air can get RH below that of inside the house. We have a temporary site supply so can run 4x 13amp extension leads... that's fine for a 500w dehumidifier but i dont fancy running a 3kW immersion with that! UFH will be a priority over christmas and hopefully be ready for when we get main power in early Jan. 50mm liquid on top of suspended precast slabs... the house was open to the elements for a long time and I know there is a lot of moisture trapped in all the concrete. Second fixes that are the issue are timber... joiner wont fit the skirting as the walls at the floor are too damp, kitchen company can't fit the unit gables either. Same for the wooden floor. We've moving in end of January so wan't get get as much of this stuff done as possible. It's been a long 2 years.

We've just had 200m2 of liquid screed poured and the entire house painted... so it's as damp as a November morning. Keen to get it dried out for second fixes and move in end of Jan. We currently have the windows closed and four dehumidifiers running, currently removing about 20l a day. Temp of about 15c and relative humidity of 80-85%. Was 100% when we just had windows open. We've no electric at the minute so can't get the UFH up and running for at least a month. Would it be better to get some space heating going and commission the MVHR (via temp power supply)? How much moisture can they remove @600m3/hr if there's a delta of about 10c?