Conor

Why this way? Why not on the slab or a course of aerated blocks? That's the way I did it.

Other than changing to precast concrete floor slabs, the only option I can see is build the required stud walls.dorectly off your floor slab, lay floor joists at 1st floor level and screw down 22mm OSB boards around the perimeter to allow the bracing to be fixed to. Pour the walls, get your roof on pronto, then you can remove the temporary floor sheets and put your final 1st floor boards down when water tight. It'll cost you a few hundred in OSB and extra guarding, but I don't see any other options.

We did our own and got the architect to put it on his headed paper. No issues.

As @dpmiller says, that's a groundworker/ civils team work, not a plumber. You want a man with a mini digger. The pipe connections are the easy part. It's a day's work, assuming no fancy reinstatement.

No, keylight. They are fitted as per the instructions but we added 50mm insualtion around the reveal before plaster boarding.

Bet the insulated the roof as far as the loft ceiling and didn't bother putting any into the loft/ridge. I know the builder he's a good guy, high quality work and does higher end stuff. Makes you wonder what goes on at the sites where they don't care at all.

Our house for comparison. I'm disappointed with the performance of the roof lights ?

Brand new £850k "bespoke" developer home 50m from our plot. Vast majority of homes in the area still had their full coat of frost at this time. Maybe this guy has the gas on 24x7 and the thermostat set to 25c??!!! (The chimneys are fake fibreglass jobs, I don't think the houses have open fires)

Try sdg in Armagh, they supplied the tanking system for ICF basement. Speak to Darragh. They do a paint on liquid suitable for ICF. At our ground floor level we fitted additional external insualtion. To prevent the tanking being bridged, the lapped over another wide layer of dpc over the tanking, up 200mm and back through the ewi to the render bead above ffl. I used the paint stuff around door thresholds.

Looks exactly same as us. Plastic push fit is generally used on long runs from source to outlet. We used copper for the last few bends and connections to outlets as you need straight pipes to it to be a neat job. 22mm coiled plastic pipe is hard to use in tight spaces as you can never pull it straight. Also most taps etc use compression fittings, so copper is best. Same at the other end at the manifolds / tanks / pumps etc. Our build has everything from 10mm plastic push fit, to 1" hand soldered copper via everything in between.

What size is your house? If you're in the 300m² ballpark, you might want to consider two units, one for each side of the house to avoid crossing steels. That's what we had to do as we couldn't cross the steel mezzanine that splits the house I'm half.

@luz624 had the sink in for a few days now. Have a quooker boiling water tap and an insinkerator waste disposal unit fitted. Love the setup. No issues with the sink, really nice and deep. It does sound a little bit hallow, but I suppose any steel stink that size will. Chopping board and drainer are good quality as well. Has a full waste and trap kit with it, not used it because of the insinkerator, but seems good.

I've gone for recirculating. Yet to install the kit (first week in the house) and 100% sure it'll do the job.

@gavztheouch 90mm (76mm internal diam)

I did a mix of both as we have a three story building. I used a mix of 160 and 125mm galvanised ducts to each floor. Then branched off using tees to semi rigid or to a manifold then semi rigid. Advantage is lower pressure losses an quieter system. Disadvantages, much more time consuming to install.

Make sure you hire a whacker and make sure your base is well compacted. Do in 100mm layers and make sure there are plenty of fines in the mix.

Remember that the celculius scale is arbitrary. -5c air only has a little bit less energy than 5c air. Heat pumps will still extract heat energy down to -20c or so.

Our screed moisture level is still too high to put down wooden floors - and we're moving in tomorrow. Would like to paint on something like watered down PVA to keep the dust down but still allow the screed to dry. Any reccomendations or advice? It's a cement based liquid screed.

I've two salda smarty 3x units for our 300m² house. The two combined are cheaper than a single zehnder. Yet to commission so cannot comment on performance!

Architect did the PHPP modelling that said peak head load would be 3.5kW. also used loopcad that did room by room modelling. It was greatly over estimating heating requirements for some reason. As it's a passive-ish house and currently 5 small dehumidifiers are keeping it (top two floors) at 17c, I'm not too worried.

The heat recover % figures quoted are lab based, controlled conditions, best case figures. In reality you'll never see 90% energy recovery. But you also have to bear in mind that the primary job of an MVHR is to maintain good air quality and to recover some of that lost energy. Of you had trickle ventilation or mechanical extractors, you'd have poorer air quality (variable) and more heat loss. Your humidity is probably high because your Hosur is still drying out. Our last screed pour was end of November and we.have dehumidifiers running 24x7 and humidity sits around 70-75%.

You could use bend formers and lag them? I have a bag left over

I did it on loopcad. The ground and top floors were done precisely to meet the heat load requirements and I used the optimal spiral pattern. Sprayed out the pipe routes in advance. Took two days to do 175m². For the basement, we basically skipped all the design and went straight to simply marking out the pipe centres in each room and roughly calculating the loop runs in our head. Laid using the serpentine pattern. Much easier and faster. 115m² done in half a day.

Cool Energy. Was set on an Mitsubishi ecodan but couldn't find one in stock. Cool energy was competitively priced and got a package with tank, buffer, controls etc so didn't have to think beyond the order. Tank is plumbed in but not got the ashp connected yet. @dpmiller seems happy with his.

I ended up doing the same. We had a lot of tight loops so not really any slower than the stapler.