Declan52

Not sure it will be fun but definitely memorable.

You putting it yours or the others???

You will have are the alcoholics hiding in the bushes making dog and cat noises waiting to be sprayed.

I had to cut a hole in the ceiling plasterboard to enable the ducting to come out and turn and exit across the dropped ceiling to where I had the duct to the outside. As for switching it on mine is left on permanently at the fan but it's wired into a switch beside the lights. Mine is a neff but think it was near £300 as it was the most powerful I could get.

He's just putting an edge on it for him.

Hire a rotating level for your founds. Use it first to figure out how much needs stripped of from transfering a level from an outside marker like a kerb, manhole cover. Dig out whatever needs removed and dig the trenches. Put some wooden stakes in your trench for a concrete depth height. One at each corner and a few along the long walls. Tap these in and set them all level. The next day after your concrete is poured go round and see what way the corners are. Might be +-20mm which is no big amount. Next height will be your blocks that the b&b floor sit on. By going round the concrete you will know which corners are low/high and then using a tape the brickies will be able to bed up/down to get to whatever height you need to be. Put a masonry nail in the top course of block in each corner set level. From this nail it's easy to use a tape to check you are building it level the whole way up. Don't be afraid to put a tape on each corner during the build and if it's out ask why. If it's brought up level then your window cills,wallplate etc will all be level. Any brick layer worth his salt will have profiles at the corners so will be easy to maintain the correct bed depth from the bottom to the top. If you really want a level don't discount an optical level. Only thing is you need another pair of hands, but they can be had for less than £200. A long level and a line laser is all you will need for the internal work.

As Dave's points out we still use the sink for some stuff including pots and pans but all the plates, cups and cultery go in the dishwasher.

You do realise the longer it takes it get the bricks and blocks up to where they need to be the longer it will take to build and the more money it will cost you. I would want the brickies building and somebody else loading it all out for them. Either yourself if possible or a labourer if you can get one or the brickies have one. Or its Either 2 days paying them to pull bricks up and load out each lift or 20mins with an all terrain forklift or a telehandler. A brick hod would be quicker than a pulley as you can put 12 bricks in them. Plus you will end up with thighs like a Romanian weight lifter. Have you looked at using cavity beads instead of batts. As the batts are springy they won't push the fresh work out. But any droppings that fall down the cavity land on the insulation below and can cause gaps.

They used to be the cheapest blocks. Nearly every big builder used them.

Did you check stoneyford for a price. That's who I got all my blocks from. http://www.stoneyford.com/services-grid/

In my kitchen and utility room both sinks aren't under the window. Never really understood the notion that you had to look out a window when your doing the dishes. Anyone with kids in their teens will agree that the dishwasher is the world's greatest invention. Still can't figure out how they need to use nearly every piece of cutlery we own when they make tea and toast.

They sell a bolt and 2 metal bars to do the installation. Not that hard to copy.

Don't forget windowlean to stop certain people from gazing in.

It doesn't really make much difference. Some guys like to build overhand so will be on the inner floor and do the bricks first then do the blocks. Only issue here is most health and safety guys will demand a scaffold up. Others want a scaffold up and will build the blocks first from the inside then go outside on to the scaffold and do the bricks. The advantage here is when they are pole jointing the bricks they are facing them so it should be done better. You can of course do the bricks first from the scaffolding and then go inside and back it up with blocks. How are you going to load the house out with bricks and blocks?? Are you hiring a telehandler for example??? What are you putting in the cavity for your insulation??? No matter what way it's done it takes 2 secs to drag the trowel along the wall to clean any snots of so there is no excuse for leaving it bad. Not doing this will have major implications in how tight you can get your insulation if you are using cavity boards.

Either make/buy 3 of these. One each end and the other in the middle. https://www.diy.com/departments/softwood-3-step-riser-l-813mm/66169_BQ.prd You will end up with this look. https://www.diy.com/departments/step-deck-stair-kit/566193_BQ.prd

Decking lights where also the best option I could find.

Gin. Keep drinking it till the pain goes. I take cod liver oil and it helps me. If I miss a week or two I sound like flipper the dolphin is inside me sending out an SOS.

New knee and hip???

They make a concrete block using whatever stone and dye they need and make it 225*200*450 and split it in 2. They where used here everywhere around 2000-2005.

They look like a concrete block made with coloured concrete. https://www.aggregate.com/products-and-services/building-products/walling/rough-dressed As far as matching the motar, is it the pink bit or grey bit you are going to go for.

Tin cans and string!!

My brother in law was laying fibre cables coming out of Bangor and ards heading down both sides of the peninsula last year. Not sure how far they got but he was on it for months and months.

During the winter my stove comes on in the morning and if any stat calls for heat it will take what it needs. Same goes for the evening. Stove fires up and heats my thermal store and if needed it will go to what ever room where it is needed. I will be in 4 years in September and have no cracks in my tiles or solid floors so heating up and cooling down regularly won't cause any damage. What are you going to be using to heat your house??? You can use the blending valve to set the water temp going in to suit your needs. Can be anywhere from 25 -55 degrees. Depending on what your heat losses are well determine what yours will be set at. Mine is set for 35 but each system is different and it's easy tweaked once it's in and running. So you can have it set at a lower temp like 25 so it comes on more often to keep the temp in the room at 20 degrees or run it higher so it takes 3-4 hrs to get to 18 and then you come home and enjoy it getting to 20. My and my dearest have the usual stat wars every winter where she puts them up to 22 and I turn them down to 20.

Brick acid and maybe a stiff brush and see what that looks like. Was there a air vent under the door cill?? What did he joint the bricks with,the handle of his shovel.

Mine is near enough that with 75mm sand cement screed. Takes roughly 2 hrs before you would feel the heat on your feet but similarly it will stay warm for the same when you turn it off. How long it takes to heat your room up after that will depend on your heat losses. Doubt your room will ever be lower than 15-16 unless it's really cold outside and you have left a window open. As above about 1 degree per HR wouldn't be far off the mark.