Declan52

Over the last 20 years here there is an endless list of bridges and buildings that have had to been repaired due to concrete cancer. Due to either a bad pour, bad mix or bad workmanship there where gaps left round the steel reinforcing which let air and water in and caused the steel to rot. When it rots it expands and bursts lumps of concrete loose. Not exactly what you want in bridges and large buildings.

The cheapest method is build the founds with blocks then fill with clean stone, put your insulation in and then cast your slab, with UFH pipes if your going that way. Beam and block floor shouldn't be used if you don't have do.

Does it stipulate what it means by completion as for example all fully installed and signed off by you saying you are happy. In terms of warranty im sure you have asked questions that it will cover any issues that might arise. I don't think they would take too kind to you with holding money for 3 months in case you find a problem.

Try https://www.bpcventilation.com Lots on here have bought from them. It's not a difficult thing to install yourself so can be a money saver. Don't look at it as a heat saver device, look at it as more a unit that will provide nice clean fresh air and will remove the bad smells. The fact it can also recover some heat is just a bonus.

You can use a welded piece like what you propose. But it's a big lump of steel so will be a thermal bridge but with twice as much insulation going in the floor than what you are putting in the cavity that detail ain't your biggest issue. 50mm is a long way from what you hope will lead to a warm room. As above you could use 2 skin of blocks and increase the cavity to 150mm min and use a stone cladding type product. I used one on mine and it's real stone but only 25mm thick so won't need extra width in your founds or the extra steel. Comes with corners so looks more realistic. Two 4m concrete prestressed heads will easily do that opening. With the money saved on your founds and the steel you can put more insulation in the cavity and have a room that won't require the heating on all the time. This is a video of how it goes on. There are plenty of different companies that do this type of product now.

Just remember that no matter what price your given shit will happen during every single build and end up costing more than you expect. So factor in your contingency to cover yourself. And as above go over every single aspect before you start to make sure you haven't left anything out or the builder hasn't put everything in the quote. Same goes with changes, doesn't cost much to do it with a pencil but will later on.

Yeah I think it was just bog standard screw fix silicone.

I put the thinest bead of silicone around my shower plate. Have had to take it off twice in 4 years to clean out the gauze and change the thermostatic valve.

Def leopard album!!

My dog loves the doorway into my utility room. It is near solid pipe across the length of the opening. I have 8 zones so it's a lot of pipe coming in through one opening.

We had a red brick fire place when I was a kid and mice can run up and down really easily.

Or if you really want a full 6m opening build the corner in block and use a heavy duty steel catnic or a rsj beam.

Would it not just be much cheaper and easier to divide the long panels up and build a block pier in between. So instead of a 6m run you build a single block pier in the middle. This will give you two openings of 2550mm which is still a massive stretch of glass. For the 4m run you could use a 4.2m prestressed concrete lintel which will give you an opening of 3550mm. Still a big window. In terms of cost the difference will be huge. 6 prestressed concrete heads will be much much cheaper than all that steel.

The before picture before the stress of a self build had took its toll.

I used 100 mm heavy wall box section for mine. It carries a room above it as well. Never went with a structural engineer though.

You will cover the pipe fully with the pea gravel. At least 100mm of gravel all around the pipe. 10mm of any type of stone won't do anything. Dig the trench with a 300mm bucket and the pipe goes in the middle and will leave you the 100 each side. Then you can cover it over. If the clay is dry you can use this to put over the gravel and build it up to what ever height suits your path. Then the crushed stone whatever one you go for. Type 1 is used for paths and roads as it has the fines so compacts really well and holds together.

The cheapest quote is still some price for that small a build. Over €3000 per sqm is nuts!!! In a few years time your house will hopefully have gone up in value but that profit will be wiped out by the increase in labour and materials which will definitely rise. If it was me I would go for option 1. Put some money into your own house and sell the plot and use the money to take a few holidays and enjoy life a bit more the closer you get to retirement.

When you say committed what do you mean??? In your head you have found the right kitchen or you have paid a deposit.

There is a 10% of code for AO ebay store. Code is PERKUP Valid till 28th https://www.ebay.co.uk/rpp/electronics/ao

Pea gravel around the pipes. But it doesn't compact so will be no good for paths. As far paths any kind of crushed stone will do. Type 1 or 3 will do. Get the cheaper one.

Buy the titan one and use it. If you like it great if not bring it back and say it is making a weird noise from the motor and get your money back and buy the next one up in the catalogue. Repeat until you find one you like.

It's more a case of how fast can you lay tiles. Rapid set you need to be on it as once it starts to set its game over, you can't mix it back up again.

You could fill them with pea gravel to help them keep there shape.

It wasn't just him that was missing his wages. The company hadnt paid lots of his co workers from before Christmas. The digger driver had been waiting all day with his boss promising the money was on the way and he waited and waited and waited. The temper took over and he went nuts.

Don't just ask about the per 1000 bit. Do they pay wet days for example. Is there plenty of work on the site. Are there any other squads willing to take you on, this will obviously depend on how good you are plus how fast you are.