Declan52

It well be fine if it's dry. Building sand holds water that's why you cant use it under paving flags etc as it will turn to mush and the flags will sink.

Sorry I can't really remember as it was a good 6 years ago. As I had bought my lightweight blocks for my house from them I was able to get a good deal. With not needing any concrete base or plastering and being a DIY task it must have worked out much cheaper than any other option to hold back my driveway or I wouldn't have used it.

Ok. Doesn't really matter then. Worst case scenario is you might need to increase the flow temp a degree or 2. Realistically it will be fine and dandy.

The extra layer of polythene is just there to stop the screed getting into the joins of the insulation and lifting them. I would remove the polythene and tape the joins as good as you can. Sand cement screed doesn't be no where near as wet as a flow type screed so much less of a chance of lifting the insulation.

Do it in a series of steps to suit 2 rows of these. Set them back 1m each time which will give you a nice flat area to plant out. When these grow then it will hide the barriers. If the Z posts are too expensive price up concrete fence posts then bolt the barriers to these.

Is the screed sand and cement or a lightweight flow type screed.

I use cyberghost and it's never slowed any thing of mine down. Use it to stream IPTV, prime, Netflix etc and have streamed 4k quality streams with no issue. Cost £60 for 3 years and works across 10 different devices so sold a few slots and covered my outlay.

The joins would have been wetter so take longer to dry out hence why they stay visible for longer.

So they aren't actual ripples in it?? Its just from the water in the plaster being spread out. Perfectly fine.

A spirit level or a long piece of storage straight timber will do. Post up some pics of the work.

A simple straightedge like a level across the wall will show up bad work. Sunlight can cast shadows across a wall to really highlight dips and bumps and rough trowel work. A bright light/ torch will also work but just not as effective. It should also feel nice and smooth.

Could you raise the height of the site by a foot and spead over the full site maybe half what you dig out. Otherwise your going to have to figure out something about the access. 500-600 tonne of soil will take a lot of men a lot of days to shift. My rough sums where near enough the same as @Moonshine.

Most of the polish guys in my work could bench press the barrow with the paving flag on top. Some seriously big guys. And some of the nicest guys I know I should add.

Always used a wheel barrow with the skip removed. You still have to lift it onto the frame but it's really easy to move to where it needs to go to. Stand it up straight beside the frame then push it over side ways onto the frame and slide it into place centrally. When you get to where you are laying it then lift it off and let it rest on its edge straight up and walk it left right left right until it's in its spot then lower it down. Means half the weight is always on the ground. Or get some polish guy with a strong back and a weak mind to assist.

I went with Munster/baskil and have had no issues. I went for their 3g future proof uPVC windows. Coming up on 6 years and I have had only 1 seal go which they replaced quick enough. At the time I put mine in they where a good few thousand cheaper than anyone else for similar spec Windows. Like most window companies it really depends on the fitters. They supply the vast majority of the house builders here and what they put in for them ain't great but the builders are paying peanuts for these windows so they are threw in as the fitters need to do a few houses a day to cover the wages. Get all the companies out and then compare everything and make your choice.

The inner course is not FFL. On top of the ground in each of them pics you will have if possible hardcore then Dpm then insulation and a concrete sub floor or the finshed slab if that's how your doing the build. FFL could be anywhere between 150-225mm higher depending on ground conditions and the amount of insulation your putting in the floor. It's not for stepped cavity tray either. You can at this stage put one in but you only do a cavity tray like that if the outside ground heights are going to be higher than normal. It's left at this height so your first layer of cavity insulation boards/batts will be below the finshed floor level so no cold spot as your wall ties will start on top of the inner block work. This will leave a 225mm gap underneath where any motar droppings can fall to and not cause any issue. The lower section is where you start the brickwork or blocks but both have to match height wise going up for the wall ties.

I use it for the moss on my roof. Take the packet of the copper sulphate and a watering can onto the roof and using a garden hose fill the watering can up and walk along my ridge pouring the mix onto the tiles and let it run down the roof. You just need to make sure it doesn't come into contact with any metal like guttering or roof windows etc. It keeps my roof pretty clean and lasts 2 years easy for a few mins work.

Could you expand a bit more on what you mean by hair and fur???

Basically no. A single skin block wall won't hold back that amount of pressure. You want the wall to have steps so the earth its holding back rests on these and stops it toppling over. So your bottom course would be 450mm wide then steps in to 330mm for another course. Then 1 course at 215mm and a single row of 215mm then a block on its edge, 100mm wide. This will give you a height of 1m. You backfill with clean gravel with some sort of drainage channel or weep holes in the block work. The membrane sits on the ledges of the steps and helps to hold the wall in place.

My house is beside a very busy road and the triple glazing really helps to kill the sound of lorries going over the speed bumps that my lovely council decided to place right outside my bedroom window.

Put a post up on Facebook and tell all in your friends list to share it and hopefully somebody knows someone who will see it who was also stung and they can get in contact with you.

Did they expand their reasons with a bit more information as in see picture abc that is bad workmanship because xyz etc. When they say wrong beads what is the difference between what you used and what they recommend and if you bought the system as a package they surely the correct beads would have been included. And what is too close to the ground and how could they come to that conclusion without an actual site visit and measurements taken.

I used fence runners bedded on some concrete as these are treated. These where set at the height I needed and then acted as a screed rail to leave the surface dead flat. Rolled it out and let it sit a day or 2 so it could shrink/expand as needed. Then used a lot of Stanley blades and cut it and used green decking screws to attach it to the runners.

I use sodium hypochlorite to clean mine. Kills everything that's not meant to be there and brings the pavers up looking brand new. A 25 litre drum costs £15 here and it goes a long way.

How would you stop them moving about when you walk on them. Either bed them on sharp sand which will help drainage Or Put them on eBay or Facebook marketplace. Use the money to buy some composite decking.