Declan52

My main back door is 4m away and it was meant to be the route into the house but anybody who visits walks past it and comes in via the sunroom. 1200mm should be wide enough for carrying furniture through.

I have French doors like this on my sunroom. Make the doors standard width and the sidelights whatever width is left. A 600mm door is not practical so you have to open both doors to enter/leave which will drive you insane. I have one of my doors locked permanently, only ever opened when it's really sunny, and use just the single door as the main access.

Very good deal with 2 batteries and a charger as you say. Getting the drill for about £20. Buy an bare 18v Makita impact driver and that's you sorted, £60+.

Are there any houses close by in the same side of the river that have been built recently. If so By knocking on their doors for a chat you could get an idea of the depth of piles they used. By doing a site investigation first you would be gaining valuable data which in turn let's the piling company know what depth they expect to hit. If you don't the piling company is just guessing with regards the quote for your job.

A truly stunning home made by one of the most talented craftsman that has ever appeared on grand designs.

I have Makita drills and other tools so had batteries and the charger. The 4.0ah twin batteries lasted well over an HR. Just make sure if you're going down the cordless route the batteries are fast charge. Will mean the difference of 60mins or 4 hrs charge time.

I used a twin battery Makita recently and was very very impressed with it. Cut through the nettles and tall grass with ease. Plus it was very light to handle. https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-dur369az-twin-18v-lxt-brushless-cordless-brush-cutter-body-only If you are sick of pulling the starter cord and cleaning out carburetors cause of sticky petrol then cordless is the way to go.

It needs more lead so the complete pitch is covered. From the pics it looks like silicone was used and that ain't going to last like that on a roof. Cut into the bed of the bricks over the ridge tile and slide a piece of lead and then hammer it down to form the shape needed to go up and over the tile. To hold it in place cut small pieces of lead, 50*20mm and fold these over and over like a Swiss roll and then hammer them into the cut above where you put the lead in. This will hold the lead strip in place. 3 bits would be plenty. Fill the rest with lead mate. Much better than silicone.

It's always a busy show but more so at the weekend. Did you get the free tickets.

If you had been doing any sort of modelling last year then the amount of really hot days a year we get would have been maybe a week at most. After this summer where we broke all records it's something that has to be really considered. Some of my rooms, kitchen and sunroom especially, hit 28 degrees this July. I had my blinds down and all the windows open at night including 4 veluxs in the roof and it hardly dropped a degree overnight. Having the option to use an ashp in cooling mode with ufh would have been great but when we where designing the house have a week of weather over 30 degrees just wasn't even considered.

That's a massive part of the unknown you don't have to worry about. They aren't difficult forms to fill in its just they are never in any rush to do anything. Don't worry about asking stupid questions, just fire away with whatever it is and we generally do our best to find some sort of answer.

Whereabouts are you building here?? The biggest thing to factor here is getting your services to your plot. Get these in cheap and your flying. NIE and NI water aren't exactly known for their speed so as soon as your ready to start get the ball rolling with these two.

I think there are a few poles too shiny and some of the planks look very wooden. Apart from that we will wait on the only verdict that matters.

Wonder how long it will take before our resident scaffolding expert weighs in with some criticism after viewing your pics.

There is a very good help page for Shelly's on Facebook that the inventor takes part in.

Put the rafters on first then this will give you a better guide to fill in the small sections.

An electric planer for the wider cuts and a small hand palm planer to square the bottom of notches after you finish with a sharp chisel.

Have you any actual foundations built or is it just a bare striped back plot?? Get as many quotes as possible for all the different available build methods. Traditional brick block, timber frame and ICF. Don't ever count any in or out till you have all the options in front of you. Then go through them and make the pros and cons of each and somehow pick a winner. As above post the plans if possible and blank out any personal details on the plans.

None of the block work is tied in so although it has enough bearing, just about ,that section of the wall is going to be crack city. That's a straight joint from floor to ceiling so that's going to move esp when the door gets slammed a few times. It looks like the opening was made too big and they went back and added the small pieces to get it right, but done it the lazy ass way.

Nothing wrong with gluing a floor down. You shouldn't be doing any kind of flooring unless the slab has dried out as well. With ufh a wooden floor glued down will transfer the heat through to the room quicker as well.

They have to be concreted in to stop the surface spreading out when you turn the car. Set your levels up to whatever height they need to be and using a string line bed the kerb/edging on a dry mix. Then using more concrete haunch the front of the kerb slightly so you leave enough height for what ever is going on top. Put a good amount of concrete on the back of the edging as it's this that will stop it from tipping over.

Think your going to have to use wall plate straps. The builders band is no where near strong enough to keep your roof attached to the walls. It's only a few bits of insulation to take out. Lucky it's been found now and not after it's been plastered up.

I think firmus will love getting that phone call!!!

To help @Dan1983 out slightly you couldn't point out what bits you can see that are potentially unsafe.

Did you put this pipe in recently during your building work or has it been there for years???