Declan52

You would get what you're looking for from a company like this https://www.rom.co.uk/ I used to work for them and they could make the mesh whatever size you need but your going to pay for it. Much easier to cut 8*4 sheets up plus at this length they are much easier to move around site.

It's more a case of they get a 5 and go sure that's not really much of a difference and convince you 5 is the result of hours of meticulous work. If you push for a 2 or 3 then your looking it done right and at the end of you score a 5 then that's a mile out. What type of build are you going for.

You should be aiming much lower than a 4. It's not that hard to get that which means very little effort on their behalf.

What about lifting door head heights to allow you to add extra insulation to the floor. How big of a renovation job is this going to be??? Or just accept the fact the ufh will lose more heat to the ground than you would like and live with it.

The sub floor is just usually there to give you a surface with which to work of which it it takes a bit of damage it won't matter. It doesn't do anything else normally. Ask your structural engineer can you do away with it and use one single layer of concrete that contains all your ufh pipes plus steel mesh.

Get a price for aerogel and then rule it out. As you have been told in the other thread look at a method to remove the concrete sub floor which will give you enough depth to boost the insulation. 150mm of pir is the minimum depth you should be looking at.

There is a company near keady co . Armagh that done a mates resin floor. It looks really well. https://www.resi-lutions.ie/

The sharp sand is the new bedding. Don't need to use anything else. Then grout them up.

A layer of sharp sand covering the entire area would work. Set the bed to whatever height suits your height restriction at the door. Could be 30mm or whatever it is. Sharp sand is much easier to work with than mortar and will fill all the gaps that are in the old mortar bedding.

What you dig out of the ground is classed as a disturbed sample so you can perform any worthwhile test on it for it's bearing capacity. If the structural engineer wants this type of data then it has to be boreholes and spt tests. You could ask the company for a quote just to use dynamic probing. This just involves driving a long thin metal pole into the ground and count how many blows it takes to get a certain distance,1m intervals usually. But if they want data and specific soil samples at 2m,3m depth then it's boreholes. So might be worth asking if just data from dynamic probing will be enough or what exactly does he need to do this job.

Unless you need to go beyond 3m due to a risk of peat,silt or possible contamination etc there is no real need for boreholes. For anything else a 3.5t mini digger is more than capable of doing the job. But you do need some one there who can examine the spoil as it comes out and tell you what it is and if it's suitable to build on.

Let some one else do it. Or as Russell says above just use both hands and keep your mind and eyes on the task.

I would build the blocks of some concrete pads rather than hardcore.

If you have access to it somewhere via a manhole you can use a cat scanner with sewer rods and a mouse attached. https://www.hireandbuy.co.uk/p/mouse-for-c-a-t-scanner/

When I made my choice near 7 years ago it was between biomass and and ashp. At the time there was very little knowledge with regards installing and maintaining an ashp and plenty for biomass. That was the main reason I chose it. If I was making the same decision today it would be an ashp. Biomass does require more work but at the moment it suits my needs. Regardless of what system you choose if it's not sized correctly or installed correctly it won't matter what you pick. This is the most important bit.

Dig another hole maybe 400 mm deep just a tad wider than the digger with a ramp to get in and out and drive the digger into this hole and then dig what you need.

Lovely site you have there. I think I would be eating venison regularly!!!

Be safer setting up an Instagram account. It's a great place to go for ideas. Plenty of window companies have accounts which show their work in people's houses. It's free to run do can't really lose. Bound to be some employee of yours who knows how it works and will be able to give you a quick run through of how you work it.

Your going to be paying a plumber to do the job so let them do it. You need a special type of spanner to reach up underneath the sink to turn the nut.

I think your best option would be too get a professional to come out do an inspection and a detailed explanation of what they think is at fault. This will then give you the basis of a claim which is realistically how it will more than likely end up. No amount of silicone will fix your issues. It's just a sticking plaster that won't last.

Just do it in a series of passes not just 1 or 2 goes. And don't push to hard.

I had a shed on an adjustable base. It was built on scaffold planks and when it sunk I used my large crow bar to prise it up and pack it with slate. But then rats decided to move in and built a nest and ate there way into my shed so from now on a concrete base is my first choice. Don't see any reason not to use these as there free so fire away and report back.

Instead of saying candy man, candy man, candy man you say valiant man three times and they will appear look at your ashp setup, deep inhale of breath and say nah mate it's meant to sound like that.

It's done like that so if you have a fire and your upstairs you can open the window and use the bricks to climb down like Spider-Man. Or they had no string line so used blue rope.

Bit strange having 8 second hand for sale.