Declan52

Cut the boards with a hand saw. Physically there is no way your getting your hand down a 25mm space to put tape on the joins without pushing the wet blocks out of plumb. They will bed the wall like that but with the best will in the world unless your paying mega bucks for him to clean each and every bed as he goes and double checks each board and lift off some blocks then some are going to have gaps.

The gap left at the bottom is for droppings of motar. It's a standard detail. When you say your going to have to cut the PIR insulation what do you mean?? Are you buying 8*4 sheets and cutting these up as that will be disastrous. If you intend to use PIR insulation in a cavity then you buy the cavity boards. They are 450mm high so suit wall tie spacing. Plus they are tongue and groove. Your never going to be able to cut sheets up and somehow tape the joins up with the outside skin already built. If the brickie doesn't push any motar out when bedding the wall or setting down the block then the cavity boards will be tight but being realistic not every board will be. For this build your best bet would be getting beads blown in.

Used to hate block and beam flooring for this very reason. Blocks sometimes have cracks in them and they break. It happens. Just replace them.

You can only use carpet and underlay that are made to specifically work with ufh. Like your quilt in bed they have a tog rating with you needing the lowest tog to allow more heat though. Do you feel the stone floor warm on your bare feet when the heating is on??

What is the finish on the floor, tiles or wooden flooring or carpet or vinyl flooring???

Try turning the flow temp up to 45 degrees. It sounds like your loosing more heat than you can put into the rooms. By adding more heat to the floor it hopefully will get it another 1-2 degrees warmer.

Right guys either this thread gets back to a cctv discussion or its getting closed.

My air intake duct is a 50mm pipe that goes through both block walls and the cavity and then actually connects onto the back of the stove. If he was sent out to connect the duct why did he not actually connect it up???

No. One at each end so the structural engineer can see the bearing plus one in the middle.

Use a drill and drill a series of holes in the motar around a brick at each end plus one in the middle. With the holes all in a line use a cold chisel to remove the other bits and slide the bricks out. If you have an angle grinder it will be much easier to run the blade along the beds below and above the bricks. Use the stitch drill method on the perps and slide the bricks out.

If they had used better air tightness methods then the big bad wolf would have been dining in KFC instead of some tasty pork chops.

There is no right way to build. Each method you can pick will have its own advantages and disadvantages. Pick the one that suits your site, your budget and your access to skilled labour. The important thing to remember is to make sure whatever method you end up using is you do all the research first. If you want to use timber then use timber. If you want blocks then use blocks. It's your house so pick the one you want to build the house you will live in.

A bricklayer didn't build that. Some guy who has a trowel and lump hammer did.

If you use mitre fix on the external corners it's much easier to get a perfect finish. Apply the glue and activator and push the 2 bits together and wait a minute till it's set then move into place and nail home. As they are glued together they won't move about so you won't end up with a gap along the front edge.

Mine came with a 10 year warranty. Maybe it's a Irish thing.

It doesn't take that long. You can cut the straight bit with the chop saw so it's only the top curved section you use a coping saw on. I've seen guys use a jigsaw to do it but its a quick way to loose your fingers.

means you end you with a nice fit even if the corner is not 90 degrees.

We don't have anything like that here.

The seal has failed so will only get worse. You usually get a 10 year warranty with units so you should be well covered.

Water will find the lowest part and gather here. Was the new patio meant to fall this way or do you have a drain elsewhere that the majority of the water runs to. A drain is easy to install but obviously a run of the paving bricks needs to be lifted to get from where these puddles are to the actual drain. What is on the other side of that fence??

You can use all different colours of sand plus white cement to give you a different coloured finish.

Do the pipes pulse like normal indicating it's trying to move?? Take the clip holding the bucket pin in and try and beat it through to the other side. Will take a lot of hammer so beat the tripe out of it. Will need to go back into the digger and try getting it as level as you can. Or Might need to remove the hydraulic pipe going to the close side, usually the bottom, release the nut and let some hydraulic fluid out. Then try and use a hammer and cold chisel to make it release. Might take a fair bit of persuasion. Or possibly both of these methods!!!

Believe nothing from any sales rep unless they have the data to back it up.

Makes two of us then!!!

You need much greater depth compared to PIR insulation to achieve the same u value. If whoever is putting down sheets of insulation wrong then you have hired the wrong guy. There is little to no skill required for this job. Going by there info you would have a concrete subfloor then this flow screed then another finishing screed in top. That's a lot of concrete to buy. I would price up PIR insulation and compare it cost wise myself rather than believing a sales man.