Declan52

You can get mirrors that have Bluetooth speakers and a shaver connection on the side so only need power brought to that position. Better option than a wall socket.

White. Yes.

Nothing will come out until the water coming in pushes the air out. Run the kitchen one very low and then move around and try other taps/shower.

Turn on a shower low and cold and let it splurt away. If you use a tap on a basin when it spits out it goes everywhere.

In order to get my house built and complete the shower I put in was a major compromise. It was just as simple as it was all I could afford at the time. Now I have got enough time,money and the actual will to redo it it's time has come this weekend. Every single one here building will some where along the course of the build have to make a choice of what they want and what they can afford. It's just how it goes. But the important thing is to just get the build finished to the best possible balance of what you want and what the wallet says you can buy.

You can't lay them on their side. They are made to exact measurements so each course of brick plus a bed of mortar is 75mm. So you end up with 3 courses of brick, 225mm to match the height of a block inside which will be 215mm plus 10mm of motar to give you the 225mm.

I'm lifting a Mercedes a 45 tomorrow. Should be a fun drive home.

It's never finished. I am ripping out a shower this weekend. Hated it from it was bought and put up with it for near 6 years but it's time is up.

Mine is on a shelf sitting on rubber underlay. Had no issues with vibrations in 5 years.

There is plenty of scaffolding companies here so phone around and see who not only offers the best rate for erection but the weekly charge plus the cost to come back and change the levels if needed.

What about something as simple as this. You can install it in your ceiling or wall what ever is the easiest. When the air gets that damp the fan comes on and extracts it. Although in your house it might run most of the time but would get rid of the damp air which is causing the condensation and mould. https://www.amazon.co.uk/EnviroVent-Extractor-Shutter-Adjustable-Humidity/dp/B00E7VACSI/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=humidity+fan&qid=1612536608&sr=8-14

So all you have is the flow and return to your thermal store, mains power from the switch on the outside wall and the 2 other cables. What are they for???

What size is the thermal store?? Any pics of where is sitting and the connections to and from it.

Nope. It works away on its own. It's silent so can't hear it working away. It's a low powered fan so shouldn't be noisy. It's not like having an kitchen extractor fan going flat out.

To do what with it. Turn it on and leave it on. Every 6/12 months depending on how dirty your filters get turn it off and change them. Turn it back on and forget about it till they need changed again. It's not a tech item to play with and adjust. Fit and forget.

What did the builder do with regards drainage. Unless there is something there then with the rain falling in such a large area its always going to get damp.There should have been weep holes in the block and brickwork to allow the rain to drain out. As it sits it's building up and soaking through and forming the damp patch. I would go with the easy fix as he has mentioned and drill a few holes to let the rain out.

The soil will stop it going anywhere.

Just bed the capping stone on concrete. No need to do more foundations and build another wall. Well compacted hardcore then concrete then your capping.

Ok. 1. If the retaining wall will be made from concrete blocks then it's going to need a concrete foundation. If not it will sink slightly and the bond of the wall will break. There are dry retaining walling that needs no concrete available. 2. You can use timber like a railway sleepers to form an edge or a concrete kerb. 3. The edge of pavers needs bedded with mortar/concrete to stop it pushing out as you walk on it. If the edges aren't solid the paving spreads. This can be be on top of well compacted hardcore. Drainage gravel and hardcore you use to form a patio area are completely different materials. Using concrete is not over engineering a solution, it's using the right material in the right circumstances. Sometimes it just has to be used.

I know we have been asking for more information but in 66 pages I don't recall anyone asking about what you get up to in a shower. Way way to much information.

But if you run this test now you have a means of measuring the temp of the pipes and provide actual data. That's the bit we need.

Are you being serious. The point of this exercise is to provide proof that your ashp can actually fully heat a single rad hot enough to heat 1 single room. If it heats up then you know it's capable of providing hot water at this temp. The problem with yours is both that the ashp is undersized plus the rads aren't big enough to produce enough heat to heat your house. It's a process of elimination but you for whatever reason won't actually try a simple step to help us get more information so we can then advise you on what could be wrong. Absolutely mind boggling.

Then move your tools upstairs and your bed downstairs and just accept it as it is.

Turn off all the rads except the one in your bedroom then it will hopefully be warm for you going to bed on the day you do the test. So when you wake up in the morning do this simple task please. It won't take all day to get the rad to temp and conduct this simple test that should have been done ages ago. If after 4/5 hrs that one rad isn't hot to touch then as @ProDave has repeatedly said your issue is with the ashp. But and it's a big but if it does actually get hot then you know then it's a plumbing issue involving the undersized rads. And for all our sanity please record the temp of the pipes on both sides of the rad every hour. This will then give you vital data you can use to prove this system isn't working.

Who did you use for your air test???