Declan52

Fixed that for you.

I'm flat out looking at the rest of the range trying to figure out where I can use them. For such a small and very cheap item,£14, it's very easy to both setup and use.

I had it wired up roughly just to test it and had to disconnect it and all the settings where still there. But not sure it's stored on the device or the app.

So just to tidy this up my Shelly 1 arrived and I set it up. Very easy and well impressed so far. Here are a few pics of its setup and the app that controls it. I have a live and 2 neutral coming in plus a live going out and 2 earth. The live coming in gets split so a live goes to the L port to power it and another to the I for the input. The neutral goes to the N. The output then is the live return from the O. For tidiness I have them in a 2g box, a single would have been fine but had a double so used it. A blank face plate then covers it up. With the app I can then call it whatever it needs to be, lights or heating or whatever it's purpose is. By clicking on the correct option I can then set a weekly schedule to come on when ever I want. As a further option I can connect to the Shelly via the cloud and turn the rads on when I'm not using my home network.

We have all said that numerous times this past few months.

Look @zoothorn it's a simple process of elimination to try and get to the bottom of your issues. So start with trying just trying the rad key. Will take 30 secs to do. A quick quarter turn and then another and another maybe until either air or water comes out. Have a tea towel handy. Then report back which it is. Then we can rule things in or out. out. So no more moving onto the next job on the door frame or roof hatch. Keep your mind and focus on this issue otherwise you will continue to miss maybe vital information. As far as having no one to contact you have whatever gov scheme that paid for this job. Get in the phone and explain that you have had an ashp installed by X company and its not providing you with enough heat. Simple and direct. You want someone they recommend to come out and look at the install and see what they can spot. So rad key tonight and phone in the morning. Nothing else as everyone is growing a tad impatient with how this is unfolding so big boys pants on and get them two jobs done first.

https://youtu.be/5u4hAxi5b6o

With bacon

Cheers for that meg.

Can you explain how you got these figures so there isn't another mistake made at the start.

Hello....... Hello...... Hello..... Is..... There..... Any..... One..... Out..... There.... there....there

Or bled a radiator.

It matters jack shat that it was free of charge to you. The bill would have been sent to some one in charge of this scheme to sign off to be seen as everything was done to the correct standard. Yours wasn't. How can you let people into survey an old cottage and they don't take into account that there is little to no insulation installed. It's their job to take everything into account and go either yes this new system is capable of heating this property or it's a no sorry sir but unless you vastly improve the insulation and lower your heart loss figures then it would never heat your house.

You can hire 45t diggers if you need them that size. 8 to 10t is perfect for most sites. A 13t is the best option if you intend to crane materials in. So is it a digger or a crane/digger you need.

You can get single double or even triple rads or if you can't go out sideways floor to ceiling size. There is a multitude of different options available. The installer or who ever done the survey should have worked it all out. They measure your room length and width and height and work out rough heat loss calculations and get a figure. They then pick a rad that can produce more heat than your room can lose. Otherwise you end up with a cold room no matter how long the heading is on.

Google makes it even easier. You do a quick search and there are hundreds of companies online where you enter the room details and they work out all out for you.

Buy a wheel barrow and remove the skip. You can then set large heavy items across the bars and the wheel well take all the weight and be much easier to wheel across any terrain. I use this for moving 3*2 concrete flags, best method I have ever seen. When your finished doing this job at least you have a new barrow for all the other jobs.

Who wants to explain that "bleed a radiator" doesn't actually involve blood or a cut or anything of a medical nature.

????

Hope or maybe will to live??

Can you not just draw the plan from memory???

Can you do a plan showing a rough outline of your plot showing the house position,downspouts, manholes and anything else you think that is relevant. A pencil and paper job and take a pic with your phone and post it will be more than enough.

Could you put in an extra drain/drains to help get the water away quicker so it doesn't back up and overflow. You could put in another downspout or 2 and use this to reduce the water going to each drain.

You dig out the route of the road coming in and use the demolition waste to form the base of the road. As it's uneven materials a large digger will track forward and backward breaking them up to form a sort of level road. Then the delivery lorries with all their weight help to compact it even more so when the time comes to put the final layers of hardcore in you won't require as much so save money.

No you have just proved my point. You didn't understand what was written and a quick search would have brought up countless guides and YouTube clips explaining how and why you do this. Try it the next time.