Declan52

Hi Gary, it's been a few years since we met. I think I was the one of the first to cross your door over three years ago as the day we met you where only moving in to your new offices and couldn't find anything to show us. Welcome aboard I am sure one of the mods will be along to explain the rules around advertising your own goods on the forum.

If burglars round your way would rather go through a wall than pop a door or window I think they have too much time on there hands. What ever the cheapest block is put it on the outside.

Mine is only ducted for about 3m out the front of the house then it's buried in dust for another 4m up a steep bank to the pole.

I am sure whatever system Dave has used he done his research and found it to be fine. Like most renders it will have some sort of water proofer built in and the same goes for the wood fibre boards. How long were the wood fibre boards exposed to the elements before you got the render on and did any show signs of water damage. If they didn't let water in uncovered I doubt they will when the render is on top.

When you are building the blocks you leave out a few half bricks at different heights so you can see if the beads get to these points. Same goes at the of your cavity, leave of some of the slate/asbestolux that you have closed the cavity with so you can see if the beads are right to the top. Have some squares of timber cut so once you see the beads coming out you can wedge the timber in. Other than that a thermal camera will tell you if it's done fully.

Insulation between the studs. Faced in ply/OSB or even acoustic plasterboard all make a difference. Or do them all if you really want to go to town.

If it's for hanging cupboards then block. Still can do it with stud walls but just takes a bit more work either putting extra noggins in or sheeting it in ply/OSB before boarding it.

Can fully fill the cavity and use a water proofer in the scratch coat and the top coat of your render on the outside. In reality even with the full fill boards there will still be a 10mm gap between the boards and the outside skin. Plus with the way the tongues and grooves work the rain would never get through either.

I only used ct1 to hold mine in place. It's bonded where it touches plus it has extra at the sides that act as a glue and a sealant. The arms at the top the shear weight of it means your not going to stub you toe on it and move it.

Just put the pipes in and put caps on them. If you need to use the system then it's there if not all you are out a roll out two of pipe.

Phone any of the scaffold companies and see if they have any old ones for sale. They will still be in good nick. I got 30 at £4 each of a scaffolder in lurgan. As for what you do with them when your done. Garden planter, retaining wall, gate have even seen a bed made out of them loads of uses for them. Or cut them up for a stove that's what I done with all my damaged ones.

I went the semi solid route due to the advice I got about more chance of solid boards twisting more. I think it's a nicer feeing on the toes than the tiles I have when it's switched on.

Not about being fussy. You paid for them to come without dents so you expect them to be like that, end of. And don't just let them away with it as its too time consuming chasing them up.

Depends on the main you are tapping into. How big is it and how many houses does it feed. No they just charge you a set fee. It will be on the bill when it comes through. Is there a house close by that you could use to test the flow. You just fill a bucket with a hose for a min and that will give you something like 15L per min flow. A plumber will have a pressure gauge to tell you the exact pressure.

What's the pressure like where you are. Mine is only 25mm but my pressure is very high. They only bring the water to a Toby box at your boundary after that it's up to you. Will also charge you for the water used during the build. Think mine was £20-£30.

Ah but the Egyptians didn't have health and safety and insurance to worry about. Crane is probably the safest option but not the cheapest and there is the dilemma. Think you will just have to suck the cost up get it swung in safely and move on to the next job.

I let my masonry build sit for close on a year and let it dry out fully. Have had a few tiny cracks but nothing major. I know most builders are on a rush to get the house handed over so they can collect the money and leaving it this long isn't an option. I used tapes on all the window and door frames and membranes taped to the walls to seal the floor. All holes for lights etc in the ceilings are all sealed up so am pretty happy with how mine has turned out. As you say it takes time and dedication that most here are willing to do. Didn't need an air test to pass the regs, brought in now in NI though. As far as sealing a block wall up a scratch coat and skim finish would be a better option than parge coat,plasterboard and skim in my opinion. Don't get why you build block then stick plasterboard to it.

My brother in law is a window fitter and he gets on average £30 a unit. Smaller windows less and bigger windows more. A door would be two units. The only hard bit in fitting a window is getting it to where it needs to be. After that it's pretty straight forward. So some of the figures being quoted are unreal in my book. Should have been a window fitter.

Give it a few months and you will sit down and let a big sigh out of you and then have an enormous smile when you see what you have achieved. Well done.

I have a waterfall shower and it's unreal. Only thing is it doesn't take long emptying my TS. This is it here http://www.bfibathroomsforireland.com/showers/concealed-showers/gattoni-wabi-triple-kit-complete-concealed-shower-set-2-valve-choices

We had one in our villa in Cyprus. Took far too long to get to temp so only used it once. Kind of thing you would put a large lump of meat in a full day to cook long and slow. Used the bbq far more times. What about a large smoker type BBQ instead.

It will held in place by metal straps clipped onto the side. Probably 3/4 on each side and maybe 1 top and bottom depending how fussy the fitters where. The plaster on the inside will have to come off and you will see where the straps have been hilti nailed in place. Once you cut the straps with a grinder it will only be held with expanding foam and silicone. Should be able to slide a saw up between frame and revel and cut this out. Door should come out then.

When the frame is fitted and if something goes wrong how do you get the door out to repair it??? Must be an easy way to get the door out??

There is no better feeling than moving in knowing all what happened to get to that stage. I bought a bottle of wine and lay in the bath for near an hr, my last bath was too small to actually lie down. Am in near two years and I am still finishing bits that got missed.

Sometimes!!!