Declan52

My slab was exposed for 18 months on my block build and caused no issues apart from the odd green bit of mould where there was a bit of standing water.

Apart from what has already been said there looks to be a shortage of screws in them boards esp the pic showing the corner and the roof. Hard to tell if the white marks on the ceiling are screw holes filled over. You should have a screw every 300mm along a stud or joist. Should look more like this

Go to bathshack at dargan cresent in the duncrue industrial estate in Belfast and look at the quality of their stuff and compare it to what IKEA have. They are priced pretty similar but IKEA is miles better quality wise. Plus you can get some tasty meatballs and sauce when you go to lift it.

Got it from these guys based just outside Banbridge. http://www.steellintelsireland.com

Was monsoon conditions outside so inside pic it is.

No problem I will post one when I get back from work. As far as costs go I think my post was £100 and the catnic was £300. That was 3 years ago and like everything we get it much cheaper than the rest of the UK. My windows either side are 8ft long so thats why the catnic was expensive. Got it all from a steel guy in Banbridge. It's not that it will feel cold it's just that no matter how you work it the metal post is sandwiched between 3g passiv Windows so will always lose more heat than the Windows. You wrap the post in aerogel as it's very thin but is an excellent insulator.

I have a corner window in my sun room. Not that difficult to do. It's basically a heavy wall box section with a plate on the bottom bolted down. Then it's 2 steel catnics that bolt together and sit on a plate on the box section. Nothing to expensive or difficult although having a large steel post in the room will be a cold spot but sometimes you just have to except you will lose a bit of heat for these kinds of things. Have no pics on my phone but will post one tomorrow when I get back from work if it's still light.

The ideal size of a garden shed is one that is the exact size of your land that you own. You can always park the car on the street but no chance you will leave the lawnmower out on the street. Only then can you say for certain that you couldn't make it any bigger to fit stuff you should have dumped years ago in.

Your down stairs toliet is 1700mm wide which for just a toliet and sink is massive. In order to get access to the utility room from the hall you could reduce this to 1000mm and then take 200mm from the heat store to give you a door. Put a door into the heating store ( what's going in here with a hotpress upstairs) from the hall and it will give you another wall for more units in the utility room. Will still give a floor area of 1200mm wide between the units so won't feel small. Green are the new doors, pink is the units and black is the walls.

You could put another sky light over the stairs. You will already have a set of double truss for the skylight over the landing so won't require much extra work. @Nickfromwales you spot the room upstairs???

By any chance where they running low on concrete and threw a load of water in to the mixer to spread it out. How deep can you push a pencil/pen into it???

If you have good sea legs they are great.

Not just set them across 3 trestles. Could use the Bottom rung to hold a gd few, the top rung for some more then more with the extended bar up 2 holes. Easily get 15-20 lengths on it.

Only works when you are doing it while looking over your shoulder to see who is doing the walk of Shame the morning after the night before.

Handy for avoiding the rates man!!!

If your site is on a busy road it won't be long after you start making a mess you will have all sorts of sales reps calling in. I used macblair for most of my stuff but always phoned Haldane fisher JP Corry's and Murdock's to see how much they would charge and then use their prices to get my bill down a bit. Your best bet to save some money is to chance your arm around delivery charges. If you order more than £500 worth of material then delivery is free. Could save you a decent amount by the time your finished.

I have a full bale of 50mm pir sitting in my shed if you need me to cut some up and take some pics.

Cavity boards will all be pre cut to suit 2 course high of block, 450mm. The length doesn't really matter. You would put 2 in along each sheet so you have 2 holding the bottom and 2 holding the top of each sheet. Don't skimp on them, it's one of them things that it's more the better. Some boards have a t&g groove some don't depends on what you buy. You put extra in beside reveals and corners for added strength but not every course or you will need to punch a hole in the board. You can do every course if you are blowing beads in as the distances from tie to tie don't matter. Word of warning though you bedding needs to be 100% or your block heights won't match the size of the boards and then you will be cutting holes in them which ain't good.

Go inside and measure the distances center to centre of the studs. Then go outside and draw the centre lines on the wrap.

Doubt you will be allowed to over hang the blocks by 25mm. You could step it out by 10mm and build to the out side of the black line on the bubble and by the time you get 6-8 course high you should have your 50mm cavity. Are you allowed cavity insulation in the as long as you have a cavity, ie you can't full fill the cavity?? What type of insulation are you going to use??? Or get the spade out and dig down a bit and fix it there.

What insulation are you using in the cavity?? Just build away as it is and accept the fact that the cavity is a bit narrower at that near side. Won't really make much difference at all. As long as you don't close the cavity on the way up by building out of plumb there will still be a gap to allow ventilation. Do you have some timber like a door frame ( nice and straight) that you can use as a set of profiles so you can mark on it you're heights on the way up, 225-450-675-900 etc. Will keep your beds the same and also help to keep your corner plumb both ways.

That is a lovely looking house.

The angle beads will be used to form all the corners, could be corners of walls or the window reveals. The bell casts will be used at the bottom of your wall to form an edge to throw the rain of. Stop beads are normally used when you change from plaster to another material like timber so will give you a clean straight edge. He could be intending to use them up against the window frame. You can also use them to form arches and corners that aren't 90 degrees. Expansion joints are used to try and prevent cracking on walls that are likely to settle and move.

I have lino on my downstairs en suite and it works fine with ufh. I also have it in the up stairs toliet and it gets splashed regularly with the shower and kids and 3 years in it's fine.

At the end of the day its only a certificate and your name on a list. Will it make any difference to you long term , doubt it. Build it to passiv standards and just put that £15k towards the build costs.