BotusBuild

That is looking very smart indeed - well done!

We got the North side of the house bit right 🙂

Good point, so this would be better then (with signs on the cloakroom and utility sinks "not drinking water")

I've just had a simpler-to-implement and probably better idea, that I think may work. Use a slim vertical radiator, run the cold water through that, effectively using the radiator to cool instead of heat. In my situation, I can possible also run the cold feeds for the utility and cloakroom sinks and the washing machine through this as well, increasing the amount of cold water going through the cooling radiator. Something like this:

As I pondered how much more 2x4 I needed to create various partition walls yesterday, with the plans in front of me, my mind wandered as per normal onto all sorts of other "to be done yet" items on the build, one of which was this very point. I had either what is to be proven as a brilliant idea, or just another piece of hair-brained craziness (I think probably the latter, but anything for a laugh). Install a screed floor with stone floor tiles in the pantry in which there is a matrix of pipes (ala UFH) through which the cold water feed for the kitchen sink and dishwasher will pass. Each time the sink or dishwasher is used, the cold water will remove some heat stored in the floor. Given the small floor size this is likely not to remove much heat so then I started thinking of running the pipes in one of the walls as well, or through concrete cast shelves 🙂 As you can tell my brain was out of control.

Latest "from the mound" picture. (could have been taken back in August, but I forgot 🙂

After last Winter's big freeze and the resulting burst pipe - we happened to be onsite when it happened thank goodness - we insulated the above ground pipe and tap with various offcuts of PIR and EPS we had.

Me, me, me, please, I live to break govt websites

Tommy, it would be good if you can say what manufacturer e.g. Nudura, and provide some detail on what parts e.g. straights, corners??

I was just going to say, GET THE NUDURA PROPS 🙂 Out distributor also supplied a whole load of bracing brackets of varying types . I just added a few more bits of ply and 2x4 to brace windows and door openings (to be sure)

Take those two clips off the joist. Manoeuvre the pipe to where you want it to be, replace the clips. Looks like you have enough play in the plastic pipe

Chinglish has expanded to include diagrams 🙂

I used Jackon Raft it had 250mm concrete, 2 layers A393 mesh taking ICF walls (Nudura). We also put the UFH pipes tied to the mesh. All done ourselves apart from the concrete pour. See these blog entries:

It helps stabilise the tap from rocking side to side. Don't ask how I know

@Moonshine - is this being installed in a new self build? The way I read the GOV.UK website, the grant is only issued if you are replacing a gas boiler. Am I looking at the correct web pages or is there a specific grant for new self builds?

RESULT!! Supply moved on Thursday morning, CU and sockets moved, and CU tied to new earthing rod (previously tested by electrician), then E.On contractor moved the supply, tested connections and decided he could connect the tails from the CU to the isolator. We have power into the house. Time to start cabling I suppose 🙂

Is that low smoke cabling so as to avoid conduits? Come across a few jobs where this was the case only to fall foul of protection measures. Unless you put them deep enough, you'll still need protection. Cost of cable over normal will be in the same ball park as normal plus conduit. You can form a channel that is almost key hole shaped so the conduit 'clips' in. I am at the time to install cabling, and conduit and "normal cable" it will be having consulted a number of electricians. Once I have sourced the materials are @FM2015 and @SteamyTea still good for tea, cakes and filming 🙂

Follow up - New earth rod fitted by myself and tested by certified electrician - better impedance than the one currently in place (very pleasing result). Supply and meter moves this week, electrician allowing me to move the CU and tails, and sockets to new location.

Coming to this late. my two pours in SE Cornwall were about 12 months apart. Very drekley 🙂

+2 to the temp staircase and productivity. Ours went in about 3 months ago. Been so much easier getting up and down between floors

Wasn't aware they existed at the time 😞

Use Nudura joist hangers where you can (see pics after YT link) - https://www.nudura.com/media/1913/nuduraicf_monotruss_hanger_system.pdf In the left hand picture you'll see some pieces of wood bolted into the concrete after as the Nudura joist hangers could not be inserted prior to the pour. .

To follow on from the above, IMHO, very few domestic heat pump installations on new builds will require a split system, most being the monobloc (closed) systems. I did have one about 10 years ago, but it was on a very large new build (7 bed, 5 bath, ~6,000 sq ft) and I had the manufacturer do the install.

It was mix. Heat calc stuff came first, then a bit of hands on with others, then classroom, then more involvement installing and commissioning

@Crofter - I did a couple of years in renewables (a franchise business) several years ago (maybe too soon) and something I may go back to once my current job comes to an end. I had no prior experience, but did a HP course, an UFH course, a heat calc course, unvented hot water system course. Was doing alright until the franchisor pulled the plug on us all 😞 Go for it.