BotusBuild

I would be asking for a replacement PCB at the minimum. Something sounds wrong with the electronic brain.

Not sure I understand that John. This is the definition of mean minimum temperature: Averaging the daily low temperatures for any period results in a mean minimum temperature for that period. The figures I have used are for Newquay for the period 2008 to 2023 (most recent full years data)

Becky, In a cold space like that it is best to insulate everything you can to reduce the possibility of condensation on the outside of the pipes/ducts. The condensate drain pipe MUST be insulated. Well done for ignoring the installer. Do try to get the condensate drain pipe to an internal drain, and not to the external guttering. I fear that what happened is during the freezing conditions, the condensate pipe froze from the outside as in your picture and blocked that pipe completely. The condensate that was being collected inside the unit now had nowhere to go and so "overflowed" inside the unit to place/s where it could go, and then came out in all the wrong places. There is one good piece of news in all that - freezing conditions do not seem to be affecting the inside of your MVHR unit 🙂 I think that re-routing that condensate drain pipe will solve your problems

@JohnMo, thanks for the feedback.. The ACH figure I've left at 1, knowing it likely to be lower, but I have not had a test done yet. I jokingly said I need to meet or beat the 0.28 figure that Russell Griffiths achieved on his Nudura build 🙂 FYI - changing it to 0.3, changes the max heat loss figure from 2563W to 2331W, so I'm happy to err on the side of caution. MVHR hourly volume - I just followed the guideline formula, but knowing that most of the time there will only the two of us in the property. Changing that figure seems to make no difference to the heat losses The MEAN temperatures were taken from the Newquay, Cornwall weather station. The figures I found on the Met Office for locations closer to my site were a little higher, so I have erred on the side of caution, again. The figure is MEAN MINIMUM for the whole month of January. So, if we did have some -ve temp nights they will be offset by a majority of +ve temp nights in Cornwall 🙂

I wonder if one of you kind heat loss gurus (who understands JSHarris wonderful spreadsheet) could do a sanity check on this for me. The inputs part of the sheet are filled in thus: and the calculated losses are as follows: Am I correct to interpret the maximum heat loss to be the 2563W (January total daily heat loos for minimum OAT)? Would a heat source rated at 3.5kW or 4kW output be sufficient to support that heat loss plus DHW, where I am thinking a UVC of 350 or 300 litres? Or should I go to a 5kW heat source? Thanks in advance for your input

Right, so I was able to test to 6 bar using the pump I had. I now have two sealed manifolds ready. I guess the next test will be when I connect them up to the mains in a few months time. Thank you to everyone for your input. PS, I am a convert to the liquid sealant which worked first time on the joint I was having problems with. (High-Tech 35 S 77 PTFE Sealant for Gas and Liquid WRA compliant from my local (non-chain) plumbers merchant)

That, Mr Griffiths, is a thing of beauty.

4? 5? 6? ??? 🙂 Currently testing the good manifold at 4Bar

I would choose option 1. IMO better to have access to the manifold in the plant room than having to scrabble around in a void. Easier to isolate just one pipe (assuming you have isolators on the manifold).

The problem is not with the compression joint. It is where the 90 joins the end of the manifold. My olive joints are just fine 🙂 But thanks for the input.

Yup 😞

Damn. Having been filled with water for nearly 2 weeks, just hanging around at atmospheric pressure without a sign of a drip, applying the 2.5 bar showed a small weep where the brass 90 at the top connects to the manifold. Time to undo, re-PTFE and tighten up again. Will just air pressure test this time along with soapy water sprayed on the joints. Meanwhile, the other DIY manifold is on test 🙂

My DIY H or C manifold under test using my DIY tester at 2.5 bar

DIY H or C manifold being tested

Following a few threads and a YT video, I decided I was competent enough to create an air pressure tester for plumbing purposes. I will not be using this beyond the pressure shown in the picture as I deem this more than enough for the H&C water pipes it will be used to test in the house. Its first use will be on my DIY H&C manifolds - more to follow. This is designed to used on 15mm or 22mm pipework. The bend are because I used leftovers from old repair work in current house, but should allow connection to mounted equipment to be a little easier

Liking the approach of Alto Energy also. Will be interested in what they come back with also.

Or you can just get the Starlink one for £80 https://www.spacelink-installations.co.uk/shop/accessories/starlink-ethernet-adapter/

HANDY HINT: When you run the conduit leave a LOOP of nylon string in the conduit to pull new cable should they be required in the future. Or just one length of string, and if you pull a new cable, pull a replacement piece of string through at the same time 🙂

As long as you follow the distance and water table guidelines start practicing. Take photos along the way, and just don't fall in the hole (yourself or with the digger)

It is something I have considered. I got it as part of my degree (15th edition if I recall correctly) and failed to keep it current as my career took a different path. I wonder if I could retrain for free having been made redundant and now unemployed?😁

@MBT6 Been building new house since 2020, and still going. Current budget sheet is showing a projected cost per square metre of £1183.10. That is based on actual work done and projected future costs. To be done - electrics, plumbing, plastering, upstairs UFH, ASHP (although should get that via grants), sanitary ware, exterior cladding. Kitchen is bought so costed for already. Trades I've had in so far: concrete pourers steel framer window fitters GRP roofer groundworker Trades to get in: Electrician (but only because it needs certifying at the end) Renderer (before stone slip cladding)

From bitter experience this can be difficult to achieve from inside, so taking back tiles and "working from outside" maybe a clever solution. Do be careful NOT to block off any designed natural ventilation to the attic space as you could end up with condensation problems up there. I wouldn't cap off the cavity as again, there is probably some natural ventilation going on to keep condensation down in the cavity itself.

Ooh, now I know I've got a target for mine 🙂

Part P applies to electrical installations that operate at voltages not exceeding 1000 V a.c. Notifiable work includes new installations, house re-wires, and the installation of new circuits. Notifiable work also includes additions to existing circuits in special locations. The kitchen is not considered a special location if I recall correctly, and in my view you are are not adding any new circuits. Therefore, no Part P certification is required, just care to isolate the relevant existing circuits when moving or adding sockets.

OMG - the Perpertual Ocean youtube video in that article is mesmerising