BotusBuild

Swap the kitchen over to the plant room - allowing the storage to be split to add in a pantry/larder. Extend the partition between utility and wet room, then split the resulting area as appropriate into utility and plant room.

Hi, First off, rejigging interior walls/partitions during the build is not unheard of, so don't worry too much, unless you are making huge fundamental changes. That lounge/dining area is approx 4m x 6m? Correct? If so, then I would consider that to be ample space (assuming you are an average sized family). The pocket door walls would seem to be a reasonable solution. Another option might be, lose the bottom pocket door, change the upper pocket door to a stud wall and have some sliding glass doors in the remaining space? (with a lock to shut the kids in )

Have him use screws - then you can easily remove them once he's left site

If that is all lead lined, I would consider getting it lifted, and adding the necessary packing to create the correct fall, and then re-install the leading.

The design of the pipe layout is OK. Will it be zoned? I presume with that flow temperature you are going to install a HP. If so, and you are going to be zoned likelihood is you will need a buffer tank

For me, that would have to go, and I don't care what it cost the installers to correct.

Told you an expert would be along soon 🙂

I'm no expert, but using screws instead of nails should be OK, IMHO (waits to be torn a new one by an expert)

Yes, and Yes Quicker - especially if you have or hire a functioning nailgun

Unless you're using the 8" (203mm) cavity version 🙂 (ask me how I know )

Unless that is written into your original contract, and I doubt it will be, they have no obligation to handover the drawings. As far as they will be concerned it is their intellectual property. I had a similar situation and had to pay out a few thousand quid to get them. In hindsight, it would have been quicker to have someone re-draw them, and would have ended up with something that more accurately represented where we were with the build at the time.

On my Nudura build, where there are opening for windows (one of which is 2.5m) 3 rows of rebar (instead of 1) was laid in the Nudura webs that sit above the opening and extending 450mm further each side. BCO accepted this as creating a "lintel" within the concrete that was poured. If a steel beam is required, you can would pour concrete the approximate level of where the steel beam will sit, fit the steel to right level, shimming and bolting in place as necessary, then pour the concrete around the steel after. Don't have the steel sitting on the EPS as in the SE's drawing. Cropped photo , so not focussed, but you should get the idea. We added the extra Nudura forms around the steel, braced it excessively, and then hand poured these pockets to enclose the steel.

Having lost family members during our build and having been made redundant myself and turned 60 last year, I know how you are all feeling. You'll get through it, and the build is a great way of re-focusing. Keep going

My opinion - if it's in the loft, and it MIGHT contain water, then insulate it. Better safe than sorry

Welcome, building just over the river in Cornwall. Fitting MVHR soon.

Beat me to it. +1 for NSBRC

Welcome and best of luck with the work

FYI - standard Nudura blocks have a U-value of 0.24 - their figure!

Iain. If you have people working in the property and doors open all day, get one of those mobile propane heaters, probably work out cheaper. You might be able to then use the ASHP's overnight to keep the building warm, but as it is poorly insulated as you state, I am not surprised at the Nov/Dec elec bill

Hi. A stable conversion implies that you probably had to add in whatever insulation, air tightness etc. into the building. As you know the quantity and quality of the insulation added, and the level of air tightness you have achieved will be key to how much of the energy you are putting into the building is being retained, and for how long (during that cold snap, energy would have been flowing out of all buildings quicker than normal). If you have not had a heat loss calculation done already, I would have one done to begin with, then at least you will know where you stand with regards the system you have installed. Most importantly this will also tell you whether the Grant ASHP that you have is sufficient to provide the energy input your building requires. Until you know this, fiddling and fettling with the rest of the system should be avoided.

We had to have our temporary supply installed, but then ran a looooonnnnnggg extension lead. Even now the supply is inside the house (recent move) we still have the extension to power the temporary lighting, the radio and the power tool battery charger. The extension lead will likely be enough.

Shame you're so far away 🙂

No room for no gap then 🙂

Internal floors and walls are on my mind, keeping me awake at night. Which should I do first? Floors first? Once complete you have to protect them for a (long) period of time from scrapes, bumps, plaster splashes etc., but once done you know where the walls have to finish 🙂 Walls first? Do all your plastering and any painting etc. without worrying about damage to the floor. Do you bring the plaster board/plaster down to the base floor (18mm plywood), or leave a gap? How big a gap? So, I am thinking walls first. FYI, I will be be laying UFH on the upper floors

I've been trying to find someone to render the outside of the new build near Saltash (very South East of Cornwall, just over the river from Plymouth). There are some skills/jobs that I am deciding need to be done by others 🙂 There is about 200m2 of walls to be rendered. I know the weather will likely not be suitable for a few months yet, but any recommendations would be most welcome - DM me if you want. Thanks Stuart