BotusBuild

Totally agree with POV.

Zak, I think the sincere opinion here is that quote is too high. Only you, and your family, can decide on what you must have, what you would like to have, and what you can without in order to remove things ro reduce the cost. Or, and what seems to be the considered best option, rebuild to the proposed footprint. It will be simpler for any builder and therfore be a better final product. It may cost a bit more to do, but extensions and additions are tricky and prone to introduce problems that you could spend years rectifying. Do yourselves a favour, look seriously at the demolish/ rebuild route

A brief outline of what you are asking them to do, and some pictures/plans, would help us to form an opinion 🙂

FYI - if it is Nudura, they will only "warrant" the use of Dryvit. Both companies ultimately owned by the same group.

John - don't worry 40mm out of 360mm will make an insignificant difference.

I would ensure you have any pipes or conduits in place but not trimmed all the way back (do that after the tiling) Fit your toilets and pedestals after the tiling. If they get changed in the future you won't end up with holes in the tiling where you don't want them.

Or does this help - https://www.mycarpentry.com/roof-pitch-calculator.html

@flanagaj, To answer your question, you already have the formula in your photo above. You already seem to know what x and y will be in that diagram from what you are saying in your messages here. So working out that angle should be straightforward (unless we are all missing something). However, you'll eventually work out the angles and lengths, do the birds mouth cut, install your ridge beam, cut your rafter with the calculated lengths and angles and then find it doesn't fit as snugly as you hoped. It's a building materials thing. It happens all the time. What @joe90 says above is the way to go. If you don't want to use then use CAD - Cardboard Aided Design - a piece of scrap cardboard, marked up against the fitted ridge beam, then transfer onto the rafter before cutting.

? is the length of the top edge of your rafter. Whether you have a 6" or 8" deep rafter, the top edge length will always be the same. Then cut the ends of the chosen rafter to the correct angles to connect to the ridge beam and where it rests on the top of your walls

👋 🤣 You can get flexible versions of those - I have these already fitted. Happy to come over and help design it.

I've been cutting that rigid ducting recently - about 8-10 times so far with an angle grinder and cutting disc, with a couple more to do. Believe me, you do not want to go there. The people doing the design need to know the orientation of your joists, and what they are made of so they understand what is possible. Insist on NO RIGID DUCTING. I actually ended up telling BCP where the rigid ducting in our system could go, where the distribution boxes would go and how much stuff I needed. They still insisted on sending materials I know that I will not be requiring. If you need any plastic 125mm ducting, you know where we are 🙂

Been great for leak detection 🙂

Simple answer, yes. It shows this on their website

.. and before you re-apply the sealant, make sure the surfaces are VERY clean and dry, and then wipe them over with some methylated spirit to remove any "grease" from fingers. Let that evaporate off naturally (leave it for 5-10 minutes to be sure)

It's all in the planning 🙂 Co-ordinating different trades can be difficult. Generally first fix (pipes/wiring etc) comes before plastering. But putting things in that should so obviously be plastered is not very good forward thinking by the relevant trade. I have done some first fix on my build that I know will have to be redone before the plastering happens 🙂

I feel your pain. Plumbing in confined areas can be a challenge for everyone, however, it does look like a much better finish could have been achieved. The main challenge now is that the cabinets are in place which makes fixing anything that much harder. More of the pipework could be hidden but take into consideration that it is always useful to be able to easily get to the isolation valves that have been fitted. So if a piece of backboard is put in make sure it is easy to remove in an emergency 🙂 In that second picture the left hand branch on the waste pipe could have an "end cap" fitted instead of the open pipe just pointing upwards.

To all those saying this is not poor reporting, JohnMo has quite nicely provided the price for an ASHP itself as £2,500. Not the £10,000 more than a gas boiler as quoted in the inaccurate reporting on the BBC website. They should report what makes up the £10,000+ figure. They are not comparing apples with apples - or in the case on heat source against another. My case rests.

So @ETC, the OP's question, assuming that the PB is fitted to appropriate joists (they state its a ceiling), and they later state it is skimmed, then we are safe to say they have 30 minute fire rating. Shall we agree and all move on?

Amen

So £8,000 in total!! Combine that with what JohnMo says: and what I said: and I stand by what I say - piss poor reporting yet again dissing the installation of heat pumps.

In this article, https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-68575271 the following statement is made The National Infrastructure Commission (NIC) estimates that air source heat pumps - the most common type for households - costs £10,000 more than a gas boiler on average. Bunch of muppets, likely comparing the cost of a full heating system including an ASHP against just the gas boiler itself.

This is exactly what I believe to be true - glad I asked for "clarification" of the one word statement 🙂

Ground clearance. You know cutting down brambles, trimming hedges, trees. Marking out for what you know will be built if planning is approved. Work out where materials will be stored when onsite Make sure your site access is as clear and wide as possible

? What ? Why?

We have a 5.3m x 2.1m TG setup from Origin. For some reason can't upload picture on phone. i think a lot of the othe responses say they have TG too