BotusBuild

Been great for leak detection 🙂

Simple answer, yes. It shows this on their website

.. and before you re-apply the sealant, make sure the surfaces are VERY clean and dry, and then wipe them over with some methylated spirit to remove any "grease" from fingers. Let that evaporate off naturally (leave it for 5-10 minutes to be sure)

It's all in the planning 🙂 Co-ordinating different trades can be difficult. Generally first fix (pipes/wiring etc) comes before plastering. But putting things in that should so obviously be plastered is not very good forward thinking by the relevant trade. I have done some first fix on my build that I know will have to be redone before the plastering happens 🙂

I feel your pain. Plumbing in confined areas can be a challenge for everyone, however, it does look like a much better finish could have been achieved. The main challenge now is that the cabinets are in place which makes fixing anything that much harder. More of the pipework could be hidden but take into consideration that it is always useful to be able to easily get to the isolation valves that have been fitted. So if a piece of backboard is put in make sure it is easy to remove in an emergency 🙂 In that second picture the left hand branch on the waste pipe could have an "end cap" fitted instead of the open pipe just pointing upwards.

To all those saying this is not poor reporting, JohnMo has quite nicely provided the price for an ASHP itself as £2,500. Not the £10,000 more than a gas boiler as quoted in the inaccurate reporting on the BBC website. They should report what makes up the £10,000+ figure. They are not comparing apples with apples - or in the case on heat source against another. My case rests.

So @ETC, the OP's question, assuming that the PB is fitted to appropriate joists (they state its a ceiling), and they later state it is skimmed, then we are safe to say they have 30 minute fire rating. Shall we agree and all move on?

Amen

So £8,000 in total!! Combine that with what JohnMo says: and what I said: and I stand by what I say - piss poor reporting yet again dissing the installation of heat pumps.

In this article, https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-68575271 the following statement is made The National Infrastructure Commission (NIC) estimates that air source heat pumps - the most common type for households - costs £10,000 more than a gas boiler on average. Bunch of muppets, likely comparing the cost of a full heating system including an ASHP against just the gas boiler itself.

This is exactly what I believe to be true - glad I asked for "clarification" of the one word statement 🙂

Ground clearance. You know cutting down brambles, trimming hedges, trees. Marking out for what you know will be built if planning is approved. Work out where materials will be stored when onsite Make sure your site access is as clear and wide as possible

? What ? Why?

We have a 5.3m x 2.1m TG setup from Origin. For some reason can't upload picture on phone. i think a lot of the othe responses say they have TG too

I would be asking for a replacement PCB at the minimum. Something sounds wrong with the electronic brain.

Not sure I understand that John. This is the definition of mean minimum temperature: Averaging the daily low temperatures for any period results in a mean minimum temperature for that period. The figures I have used are for Newquay for the period 2008 to 2023 (most recent full years data)

Becky, In a cold space like that it is best to insulate everything you can to reduce the possibility of condensation on the outside of the pipes/ducts. The condensate drain pipe MUST be insulated. Well done for ignoring the installer. Do try to get the condensate drain pipe to an internal drain, and not to the external guttering. I fear that what happened is during the freezing conditions, the condensate pipe froze from the outside as in your picture and blocked that pipe completely. The condensate that was being collected inside the unit now had nowhere to go and so "overflowed" inside the unit to place/s where it could go, and then came out in all the wrong places. There is one good piece of news in all that - freezing conditions do not seem to be affecting the inside of your MVHR unit 🙂 I think that re-routing that condensate drain pipe will solve your problems

@JohnMo, thanks for the feedback.. The ACH figure I've left at 1, knowing it likely to be lower, but I have not had a test done yet. I jokingly said I need to meet or beat the 0.28 figure that Russell Griffiths achieved on his Nudura build 🙂 FYI - changing it to 0.3, changes the max heat loss figure from 2563W to 2331W, so I'm happy to err on the side of caution. MVHR hourly volume - I just followed the guideline formula, but knowing that most of the time there will only the two of us in the property. Changing that figure seems to make no difference to the heat losses The MEAN temperatures were taken from the Newquay, Cornwall weather station. The figures I found on the Met Office for locations closer to my site were a little higher, so I have erred on the side of caution, again. The figure is MEAN MINIMUM for the whole month of January. So, if we did have some -ve temp nights they will be offset by a majority of +ve temp nights in Cornwall 🙂

I wonder if one of you kind heat loss gurus (who understands JSHarris wonderful spreadsheet) could do a sanity check on this for me. The inputs part of the sheet are filled in thus: and the calculated losses are as follows: Am I correct to interpret the maximum heat loss to be the 2563W (January total daily heat loos for minimum OAT)? Would a heat source rated at 3.5kW or 4kW output be sufficient to support that heat loss plus DHW, where I am thinking a UVC of 350 or 300 litres? Or should I go to a 5kW heat source? Thanks in advance for your input

Right, so I was able to test to 6 bar using the pump I had. I now have two sealed manifolds ready. I guess the next test will be when I connect them up to the mains in a few months time. Thank you to everyone for your input. PS, I am a convert to the liquid sealant which worked first time on the joint I was having problems with. (High-Tech 35 S 77 PTFE Sealant for Gas and Liquid WRA compliant from my local (non-chain) plumbers merchant)

That, Mr Griffiths, is a thing of beauty.

4? 5? 6? ??? 🙂 Currently testing the good manifold at 4Bar

I would choose option 1. IMO better to have access to the manifold in the plant room than having to scrabble around in a void. Easier to isolate just one pipe (assuming you have isolators on the manifold).

The problem is not with the compression joint. It is where the 90 joins the end of the manifold. My olive joints are just fine 🙂 But thanks for the input.

Yup 😞