BotusBuild

@Moonshine - is this being installed in a new self build? The way I read the GOV.UK website, the grant is only issued if you are replacing a gas boiler. Am I looking at the correct web pages or is there a specific grant for new self builds?

RESULT!! Supply moved on Thursday morning, CU and sockets moved, and CU tied to new earthing rod (previously tested by electrician), then E.On contractor moved the supply, tested connections and decided he could connect the tails from the CU to the isolator. We have power into the house. Time to start cabling I suppose 🙂

Is that low smoke cabling so as to avoid conduits? Come across a few jobs where this was the case only to fall foul of protection measures. Unless you put them deep enough, you'll still need protection. Cost of cable over normal will be in the same ball park as normal plus conduit. You can form a channel that is almost key hole shaped so the conduit 'clips' in. I am at the time to install cabling, and conduit and "normal cable" it will be having consulted a number of electricians. Once I have sourced the materials are @FM2015 and @SteamyTea still good for tea, cakes and filming 🙂

Follow up - New earth rod fitted by myself and tested by certified electrician - better impedance than the one currently in place (very pleasing result). Supply and meter moves this week, electrician allowing me to move the CU and tails, and sockets to new location.

Coming to this late. my two pours in SE Cornwall were about 12 months apart. Very drekley 🙂

+2 to the temp staircase and productivity. Ours went in about 3 months ago. Been so much easier getting up and down between floors

Wasn't aware they existed at the time 😞

Use Nudura joist hangers where you can (see pics after YT link) - https://www.nudura.com/media/1913/nuduraicf_monotruss_hanger_system.pdf In the left hand picture you'll see some pieces of wood bolted into the concrete after as the Nudura joist hangers could not be inserted prior to the pour. .

To follow on from the above, IMHO, very few domestic heat pump installations on new builds will require a split system, most being the monobloc (closed) systems. I did have one about 10 years ago, but it was on a very large new build (7 bed, 5 bath, ~6,000 sq ft) and I had the manufacturer do the install.

It was mix. Heat calc stuff came first, then a bit of hands on with others, then classroom, then more involvement installing and commissioning

@Crofter - I did a couple of years in renewables (a franchise business) several years ago (maybe too soon) and something I may go back to once my current job comes to an end. I had no prior experience, but did a HP course, an UFH course, a heat calc course, unvented hot water system course. Was doing alright until the franchisor pulled the plug on us all 😞 Go for it.

I used Hy-Ten at Newton Abbot. In 2021 A393 was 59.21 a sheet ex. VAT

Correction to the diagram - the "Supply Fuse" is actually an isolating switch. Yes, I am competent, but my certification is out of date (unnecessary cost for what I do now). Yes, I've just answered my own question, because it is notifiable work.

To be clear, does it HAVE to be a sparky, or can I move and reconnect that stuff myself?

I am using Stroma. They did not ask for anything upfront, but I do now have a list of documentation I need to give them. At the end they will provide a warranty, not that I am intending to sell within 10 years

Background: Supply and Smart Meter are booked in to be moved from temporary location to inside the house - hooray. Also in the temporary location are tails from the supply fuse to a CU which feeds 4 sockets. (Note: in attached diagram connections on the left hand side not accurate) On the day WPD/NatGrid are moving the supply in the morning and E.On are booked in to move the smart meter in the late afternoon. Does a qualified electrician have to move the tails, CU and Sockets which are all on their own board (separate from the supply, meter and supply fuse)? Botusbuild - Electric.pdf

They all seem to claim it is OK, which seems mad to me considering UFH pipe is supposed to emit heat, and as @PeterW points out it's 16mm not 15mm So I guess I need to be more specific in my searches - .g "Hep20 15mm water pipe" or "Speedfit 15mm water pipe". Any other manufacturer or brand I should search for?

Silly clarification follow up question. I have some left over UFH pipe. Can that be used to run hot and cold water or is it different pipes. All my searches seems to result in UFH heating pipe

Something like this? The part of the roof that has the rooflights has a 9-10 degree pitch, and will later have a gree roof installed, as will the flatter part to the left of the rooflights, where I will be fitting my PV

Just though it would look great, but I can't find any at a decent price so will be reverting to coloured insulation tape 🙂 and a labelling machine

Go on, give us a clue as to who and where? 🙂

It's time to fit my hot and cold water pipes. I've decided on the manifold and plastic pipe approach. I like the idea of coloured pipe (red/blue). Which suppliers can you recommend please. Cheers Stuart

That, SIr, is a work or art - well done

Nudura

and this is what we have put in. All blocked while still building - to be vented later.