scottishjohn

and of course you wil have the opposite curve on the inside wall--so 2 lots of filling to do

too late now but maybe you should have laid insulation and cast concrete roof on top of it ? suppose you could fit insulation and then cement board or a 2" cement screed and then tile on that that and drianage from above that I could be wrong but seems very complicated with pedestals and a wet sump area around your insulation --which could freeze in winter and no plywood in the construction anywhere --thats just a booby trap waiting to rot away

I was presuming you were using that thickness -- 35mm ones then -but wouldn,t want to go too thin

if you can do it i would keep batons at 45-50m and then pack --so then you know no problems with fixings of cladding

could you strap it out with batons to get it all back to vertical --using packers etc and only start cladding when you have a vertical and straight frame work to attach cladding to . or maybe you hard render it all instead . a good guy should be able to make it straight with cement render base then finish of your choice

when I get that far i will be tempted to do what i did years ago on kitchen cupboards I wanted to change colour of used car paint +spray them --then it never changes and you,ll never have to repaint you don,t really think the front door of 10 downing street is brush painted to have a finish like that .LOL

yes that then alters the calculation .

add 15% vat and that makes it even harder to justify having solar Pv even if you can use it all

seems a long way for a short cut If roof strcuture is concrete -why would you need any other sort of layer just tile it with exterior quality floor tiles and exterior type tile adhesive ( frost proof)--job done

saw something somewhere that said you need at least 10times the sqm of floor area for slinkies -minimum as a rough guide

thats the answer then --or close enough --even adding the falling tide that could add another 5kw --so 11-12 kw per tide or 24 kw per day 24kw @5p per kw =£1 not viable --end of

Ok heres a question cut stone granite house circa 1800+ in scotland wall 28" thick outside cut stone wall is pefect --really it is perfect even trees that have tried to grow out of bottom have not moved anything in 50years of it not having a roof could you remove the very thick rubble wall behind it - would it stand up the ides would be to spray inside of this wall with closed cell foam after building a timber frame inside it foam is to water proof it and bond it to timber frame and so get modern insulated house but keeping room sizes as they are I have been told there will be long bits of granite in outer wall to tie it to the internal rubble wall picture is 1975 --no roof now ?

ok -for you mathmatics gurus how much power would it take to raise 5000 tons by 8m--then allow say 70% efficiency transfer rate by hydraulics to drive alternator --how much power do you get per rising tide.then you will also get somewhat less as the tide goes down-say 50% of the rising one

and of course making a barage to use tidal power is very expensive and long term --so private industry won,t do it and government is same .but will waste on HS2 ,cos it fits inwith the westminster /London bubble

i have seen the limpet as well --vnever thought it would be viable but again complicated turbines and everything in close proximity to salt water or salt spray and storms

yes i,ve seen that before --my thoughts are that anything that complicated in the sea will be very costly to maintain as anyone who has had a boat will know how the sea eats everything something basically land based with only concrete things in the water should be very much cheaper to maintain and those cost are going to make big difference to viability long term and should have a life same as a dam --100years? what i am suggesting could be virtually made by any one with concrete re-enforced shuttering experience- very low tech like building a simple multi storey concrete building or bridge I appreciate the out put will not be as much as turbine - -but the cheaper costs could out weight that to make it viable ?

any clues where to find more info like you do i was lying awake in bed and this idea appeared --probably been thought of a million times before a vessel in a tidal zone which goes up and down and that motion is converted to turn an alternator yes I know a serious gear box would be required --or if done with hydraulic rams -large diameter ones to then turn hydraulic motor connected to alternator If you have a 3-5000 Ton vessel that rises+falls 6-8 metres twice a day that must be a lot of power generated by the movement? I use the word vessel as it could be a concrete tank inside an outer tank connected to the tide but not actually in the sea --and in theory it cold be any size and even underground so something could be built on top of it

just needs a pump -will not work without a pump only thermo syhpon system i have seen was in kenya it was a 1000litre corrugated tank with a transit van radiator on top in a cold frame on a slant it worked by thermo syphon no probs --but that was on the equator and sun all day long

as we are a maritime climate whilst it will get wamrer it cold mean more rain as more evaporation over the atlantic means more cluds +rain but ambient temp will be higher --not that it may be less rain all depends on where the jet stream goes

also is that that payback is making an assumption on electricity prices in 5-10 years time ,or just using todays if it keeps going at 10- 20 % or close to it a year then the calculation changes a lot costs more i know but a 10kw array with batteries on modern house should see nearly zero grid usage except in winter I know its hard one and as you say you will be selling house in 5years --then scrap some of what we have said and just go gas +ufh

hi and welcome if you have mains gas its a no brainer- at first look --but ASHP woud give option ,with right unit to cool house as well there will be no RHI worth thinking about with new build to near passiv specs -are you going to have solar pv+plan for battery storage when it gets cheaper?and maybe then run your ASHP on your own power ? I would always say go UFH --so much more flexibility in where you put furniture etc with no radiators MVHR is a must with new air tight build --extra heating --doubt ti will be needed ,but could be retro fit later if you plan it now depending on if its going to be open plan --you might not need upstairs heating --but you can still have wet ufh in a timber floor anyway - so maybe It would be a good choice to fit piping etc anyway-- your architect should be able to tell you that when heat calcs are done sure you will get plenty of other suggestions --enough to make your head spin

ok you gurus here is my simple view on this thermal mass thing we all use concrete slab and UFH - -why? cos its store heat and regulates how it releases it and most agree its the best way ? well you build a concrete house with insulation on the outside of the concrete --you will have all the walls to act as a heat sink and storage device ,which by its nature will stop rapid changes . excess heat caused by solar gain I just do not see being a problem if attention is paid to window area ,and suitable shading+ mvhr ,as we presume this house will be air tight whatever its built from what the house is built from should not make much of an impact on these problems--that is a design problem not a fabric one that to me sums it all up. shoot me down boys

my choice is a matter of principle -

have not bought french wine for years since the big lamb debarcle -stopping our farmers getting lamb to market in france plenty of good wine from other countries

you can always pre drill but yes i understand that why good quality screws and driver with torque setting is important -also using in old beams where wood is dried out will increase the load --so if old beams maybe pre -- drill which is why i suggested the 8mm not 6mm type