scottishjohn

I,m too old or i would be in aus in a heart beat --even the winter is no more than a spring in scotland

tried that --but alli lid kept blowing off before bottle exploded--we only had one stone flagon +corona bottles needed stones in them to sink-- so we only got one real depth charge bang-- and it was my dad who told me how to do it --can you imagine any modern dad saying that

carbide test for moisture -- that reminds me of how we got all the pike out of a pond when i was a boy an old ginger beer stone flagon -- with screw in stopper-- put some carbide in it from a pot holers lamp --piss in it --then chuck it in the pond 10m ins later -- BOOM-- like a wartime mine -and stunned fish floated up to top just make sure it sinks or its a hand grenade .

very much worth considering --on my list--at large flow rates maybe could have whole house water except for toilets on it --worth investigating mains water possible but looking like 14K +inc pumping system to get up the hill

you can,t see that till you remove the shuttering --and thats too late- thats why you use a relativly sloppy pour in ICF and why you you vibrate it in a shuttered type with stiffer pour

nobody said it was difficult --its just a very simple total solution you make your own choice just a suggestion ,which like most get slagged -just because

a real one,sharpener and bar and chain or just the gadget that you buy non genuine from china -- cos you need a different chain to work correctly --different shape cutting tooth -more like a chisel than a normal chainsaw I really don,t see oregon --who do nothing but make chains making something crap -maybe not last as long as a std chain

I,m never going to be a pro using lots and lots of chains or spend many hours getting the knack of filing them and the rakers etc -

times move on --and if its sharp all the time maybe it lasts longer ? If they are twice the price but no hassle --thats fine for me -time is money i have yet to see a sharpend chain be as good as a new one --

https://uk.video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?fr=mcafee&p=oregon+power+sharp+system#id=2&vid=08f08ace01cb34a3fbc32b06473f655d&action=view any body any experience of these -- looks like a good thing

would not argue you could do same from bits cheaper --but this also has the 220 litre tank + a pump --very neat unit . a nice self contained solution

I found it in the end -- so i post it up others may need something like this https://www.freeflush.co.uk/collections/drinking-water-filters/products/hydroinfinity-integrated-drinking-water-treatment-console

you mean a mtere that you will then charge the new owenr for the water i would not buy a house with that agreement --you might change your mind and cut me off who knows how friendly you will be with the people in the farm by then . I am sorry but i am stopping replying to this thread you seem determined to make problems for your self in the future ,by being so penny pinching now the plot needs to be a separate title and defined boundaries to the farm ,with its own access and services --anything else is just asking for problems time passes and peole especially relatives can do funny things you have no RIGHT in law to a wayleave for services,its an agreement --so get it sorted out now

and when in the future you come to sell the house or the farm --maybe you got a problem cos its not got its own services or water supply -- Do it right now and if when your parents die -- and there is an argument in the will etc and you have no wayleave for your water supply to your house over that land -- more problems same goes for road access do it right now

spot on -- and i would run 50mm or 63mm if a long way -- mdpe pipe is cheap

will look ok at inspection --but flow will not be good and an accumulator and pump could be £1200-- so better to get it right first time

sounds like a plan ,presuming its not 20mm mdpe - -25 -32 is normal for house and if a long way maybe bigger and presuming its not climbing up along way --maybe check flow rate+ pressure at nearest point to start with . If so then accumlator and booster pump in house to get you good flow and pressure

not trying to be a pain - but you need to be sure the pipe is WRAS approved ,or you could get problems with building control etc,and they might want proof and it will need double check valves on etc --so cowshit in trough cannot be sucked up into your line a new line from same place in blue mdpe sounds a better idea

correct -- i found the same with my solar thermal and in the end plumped for angle same as laltitude - which increased winter output- a man in denmark has his hanginvertically to get most inwinter --this is solarthermal --so you get plenty in summer anyway+ it then cuts it back slightly which helps with overheating of water ,but winter when yuo need it thee suns angleis very low

yes fill in an application fo0rm and get a written quote . bob: you been messing around with this for months now just get some forms and make real applications and get real quotes no point in doing anything and that includes you keep asking same questions on here until you have them and you know your services costs no one can give you any real answers on here -just guesses

its still a type of grp resin system --so everything needs to be dry- it says so in the tech data +application section-- they even tell you do a test with a meter of some sort -to make sure its dry - -don,t see any advantage over simple grp roofing resin + cloth ## how quick the std grp roofing resin goes off is up to you -by amount of catalyist you add .

when I wasn,t really looking for such a thing i came across one ,which looked like an american fridge ,it had reverse osmosis and Uv and filters+ booster pump ,etc etc with computer control alarms etc now i might need one can I find it again --of course not any clues anybody i know it can all be done with separate units ,but i liked the idea of it all being in one unit, so i could fit it in the services room and also an accumulator+ pump + 270 litre capacity of treated water as well

i got a quote couple of months ago for a new supply 80kva 3 phase from an 11kv 3phase pole with me digging trench 130m --the quote was 23k!! so thats you first job get a REAL quote from DNO usual cost in scotland i have been told is 10k per pole and at 400m the size of cable you will need for underground will be huge, quick rough calc says you need 185sqmm conductors --so that will be £90 per metre for cable --call it 4k for cable get a quote --hope i,m totally wrong ,so get a REAL quote anything under 40 k --suck it up -it will be better in the long run

maybe look at stopping the damp in the walls to start with sort the problem at its base -- not try to get rid of damp once its got in MVHR will not be your solution I feel "drain the swamp once--don,t fight the alligators for ever"

did they fit a vapour barrier before fitting EWI I would get a moisture test meter to start with and make sure its not coming from walls ,pretty sure its a combination of a very cold if not damp wall and lack of ventilation as suggested redoing the inside of exterior walls with 50mm- 75mm insulated plasterboard will make a huger difference and easy to fit with dot+dab ( stick it to exsisting wall with occasional screws