scottishjohn

Ijusat found some black 50mm -16bar https://www.mjabbottdirect.co.uk/Products/DUCT,-PIPE-HOSE/PE-PIPE/Black-Water-Pipe/Black-HPPE-Water-Pipe/50mm-x-50-metres-HPPE-(PE100-SDR11)-water-pipe-to-BS-EN-12201-16-bar-BLACK but no mention of WRAS approved--not sure if that would be a problem

I have found some mdpe 63mm at 16 bar --so will keep hunting -maybe change size half way up

it is next to a quarry so there is loads of galv piping that was used for water supply to cutting machines etc in the quarry -- how corroded internally will be the worry --certainly no sign on outside of galv piping -- but 30 years since being used!!also need to check size mains at road level will be at least 3 bar i think( looking at houses along the main road and thier height above it) ,but they will never warranty anything more than 1 bar-- so thats still leaves us needing a better pipe than std 12.bar maybe i got to get mains connection and measure what it is and then make a decision on pump station location still a bit iffy cos it could change right pipe is best idea no problem in getting a pump to do it ,other than the usual one -cost - it needs to be a single phase 2.2kw -or a 3phase --looking to about 2.5-3k +cost of tank and pump house structure I,m erring towards 3 phase as cable size i have to run to it from house 400m away and that changes in size alot between single and 3 phase due to amperage only scratching the surface of the problems and possibilites of this site__must be mad maybe even some hydro --but all costs money to start with I think i will end up selling a house on other side of the quarry , to get some money to do what i want and itsplot is 5 acres+ i see every possibility for another house plot there as well!!--it also has outstanding views and possibilites for life style biz with holiday cabins etc up the hill I no doubt will be offering you boys wonderful oppertunites shortly -if you up for the challenges will post it all up ,when finally the ink is dry on the contract I,m probably mad at my age --but it seemed too good to turn down --got to take a chance and something silly once in your life #worst case scenario is i sell it again at some point first job is 100+scyamores+ ashes to remove and many fallen trees as well --so first thing will be firewood biz -maybe find someone who wnats to do it ,and just take a cut,get vsome money back in the coffers

I have mains water at sea level house is 440-450ft ABSL obvioulsy will check it exactly once on site and work our how long a run guess at this time 400m that would mean 2 pump houses and multiple pumps and there would be no road half way up the hill finding the right pipe will be cheaper but all suggestions welcome

Hi, the plot I am in process of buying --more later -hopefully all sorted in next 2 weeks --been a long haul the house is 140m above mains connection I looked into rainwater from roof supplimented by very small stream -which is not constant --but talking to someone who has done this -i would need a very large tank --10,000litre min -then a treatment plant --so costs are high how ever I do it so i need flexible pipe to go from pumping station to house as the terrain is not flat and will be hard digging -approx 400m --very much all rock normal blue water pipe is only rated for 12.5 bar and at bottom of hill it will need to take 14 bar-- 204psi now i can find 16 bar black pipe but no blue mdpe rated above 12.5bar is it permissable to use black type for supply from my pumping station up the hill Is there any WRAS approved flexible that will take that pressure --do not want to use straight lengths --shape of ground and too many joints are there any other options like galv metal pipe up a distance then swop to blue ? alot of it lying about on the plot--need to check size 50mm is size the pump suppiers want to use first thing i was told i cannot connect pump direct to mains --so i have to start from zero head at pump station from a tank which is fed by mains open to suggestions.

there are a few systems that use insulation as the roof to then pour your concrete on to https://www.insuldeck.com/ thats first one i found --lots of others.

and of course you wil have the opposite curve on the inside wall--so 2 lots of filling to do

too late now but maybe you should have laid insulation and cast concrete roof on top of it ? suppose you could fit insulation and then cement board or a 2" cement screed and then tile on that that and drianage from above that I could be wrong but seems very complicated with pedestals and a wet sump area around your insulation --which could freeze in winter and no plywood in the construction anywhere --thats just a booby trap waiting to rot away

I was presuming you were using that thickness -- 35mm ones then -but wouldn,t want to go too thin

if you can do it i would keep batons at 45-50m and then pack --so then you know no problems with fixings of cladding

could you strap it out with batons to get it all back to vertical --using packers etc and only start cladding when you have a vertical and straight frame work to attach cladding to . or maybe you hard render it all instead . a good guy should be able to make it straight with cement render base then finish of your choice

when I get that far i will be tempted to do what i did years ago on kitchen cupboards I wanted to change colour of used car paint +spray them --then it never changes and you,ll never have to repaint you don,t really think the front door of 10 downing street is brush painted to have a finish like that .LOL

yes that then alters the calculation .

add 15% vat and that makes it even harder to justify having solar Pv even if you can use it all

seems a long way for a short cut If roof strcuture is concrete -why would you need any other sort of layer just tile it with exterior quality floor tiles and exterior type tile adhesive ( frost proof)--job done

saw something somewhere that said you need at least 10times the sqm of floor area for slinkies -minimum as a rough guide

thats the answer then --or close enough --even adding the falling tide that could add another 5kw --so 11-12 kw per tide or 24 kw per day 24kw @5p per kw =£1 not viable --end of

Ok heres a question cut stone granite house circa 1800+ in scotland wall 28" thick outside cut stone wall is pefect --really it is perfect even trees that have tried to grow out of bottom have not moved anything in 50years of it not having a roof could you remove the very thick rubble wall behind it - would it stand up the ides would be to spray inside of this wall with closed cell foam after building a timber frame inside it foam is to water proof it and bond it to timber frame and so get modern insulated house but keeping room sizes as they are I have been told there will be long bits of granite in outer wall to tie it to the internal rubble wall picture is 1975 --no roof now ?

ok -for you mathmatics gurus how much power would it take to raise 5000 tons by 8m--then allow say 70% efficiency transfer rate by hydraulics to drive alternator --how much power do you get per rising tide.then you will also get somewhat less as the tide goes down-say 50% of the rising one

and of course making a barage to use tidal power is very expensive and long term --so private industry won,t do it and government is same .but will waste on HS2 ,cos it fits inwith the westminster /London bubble

i have seen the limpet as well --vnever thought it would be viable but again complicated turbines and everything in close proximity to salt water or salt spray and storms

yes i,ve seen that before --my thoughts are that anything that complicated in the sea will be very costly to maintain as anyone who has had a boat will know how the sea eats everything something basically land based with only concrete things in the water should be very much cheaper to maintain and those cost are going to make big difference to viability long term and should have a life same as a dam --100years? what i am suggesting could be virtually made by any one with concrete re-enforced shuttering experience- very low tech like building a simple multi storey concrete building or bridge I appreciate the out put will not be as much as turbine - -but the cheaper costs could out weight that to make it viable ?

any clues where to find more info like you do i was lying awake in bed and this idea appeared --probably been thought of a million times before a vessel in a tidal zone which goes up and down and that motion is converted to turn an alternator yes I know a serious gear box would be required --or if done with hydraulic rams -large diameter ones to then turn hydraulic motor connected to alternator If you have a 3-5000 Ton vessel that rises+falls 6-8 metres twice a day that must be a lot of power generated by the movement? I use the word vessel as it could be a concrete tank inside an outer tank connected to the tide but not actually in the sea --and in theory it cold be any size and even underground so something could be built on top of it

just needs a pump -will not work without a pump only thermo syhpon system i have seen was in kenya it was a 1000litre corrugated tank with a transit van radiator on top in a cold frame on a slant it worked by thermo syphon no probs --but that was on the equator and sun all day long

as we are a maritime climate whilst it will get wamrer it cold mean more rain as more evaporation over the atlantic means more cluds +rain but ambient temp will be higher --not that it may be less rain all depends on where the jet stream goes