Mr Punter

This is just lengths of rebar probably 800mm-1000mm to tie the sheets of mesh together where they butt up, so each end of mesh has a 400mm-500 lap and they will be every 200mm along the mesh. I am not sure that steel fibres will work for you. They are not a direct replacement for steel mesh but if the SE considers it acceptable then fine.

If you are concerned about mesh buildup, instead of lapping you could butt the sheets and join them with H10 splice bars. Because the slab is fairly small you could then use the smaller merchant sheets of mesh, which are much easier to handle. Ask the SE to confirm if this is acceptable and the lap required. If the SE is doing the structural design for the whole house it may be better to just stick with them. You could request that they omit a layer or downgrade to, say 252 mesh but I doubt it will make a huge difference in cost and they may not agree to do it.

Yes. The compriband will fill the gap between the ply and the blockwork. If you set it back 10mm it will make a neat shadow gap. Can be vacuumed but it does not get dusty.

My idea is to use 25mm or 30mm ply. Build the openings allowing a 10mm-15mm gap to the sides and top of the ply lining. Install the lining after brickwork, carefully and solidly packing nom 15mm. Fill the gap with Compriband after decorating, set back 10mm. What lintels do you propose? Is suggest 100mm x 215mm fair faced. You really need to avoid little cuts and coursing blocks.

I think this is just a Scottish thing. Move south of the border and they don't care how you do a connie as long as you have external doors to the main house.

The blockwork will need to be spot on. If you went for the chunky ply you could omit the architrave and have the exposed edge and a 15mm shadow gap and recess some Compriband or similar in there.

Only if the bricks have been incorrectly laid. It is not going to peel off the soldier course of 215mm brickwork, unless they have not used cement in the mortar. Fixed down every 200mm.

All 3 are used.

You may be able to get the birch ply at 30mm thick and certainly 24 / 25mm. Get the supplier to cut the sheets down to your required widths. The whole sheets are almost too heavy to pick up unless you are @nod's wife who can run up a ladder with one under each arm.

You may be able to get a better profile T or F shaped like https://www.s3i.co.uk/top-mount-f-shape-frameless-pro-glass-balustrade.php

That looks better than most professional sites. Quite an achievement! How come you have beam and block in the basement when there is already a slab?

Nice. Did you organise this yourself or did a contractor do it? Pics?

If the TF firm did the Planning App drawings the client is on dodgy ground and may need to submit a fresh application with a substantially different design if she wants to avoid being sued.

Let the supplier know in writing that it is not acceptable and send a copy of the video. That is a huge amount of deflection under almost no load.

If the new foundations are 600 wide, are you off the foundation with one of the leaves? If that is the case and you don't want to reposition the new wall it may be best to break it out and start again. If it is just a small section you may get away with digging out next to it. If BC are aware they may ask you to resin some studs into the side of existing to a design by your SE.

They are not very strong and are difficult to fix to. If they are internal walls you should not need thermal properties. A medium density aggregate block like Hemelite is good.

There were no prices or stockists online in GB so a no-no over here.

I cut and chamfer with a cordless 4" grinder. Mark the cut with a rubber band and a sharpie.

Well the photos look like mineral wool.

I have the Airflow Icon fans that have an iris type shutter built in. I also use external vents with a flap type shutter.

@Gary in New YorkI haven't seen the mineral wool infilled Porotherm blocks over here. How much are they per m2 in the US? 365mm is very thick without any finishes. Also the first mortar bed looks really thick. Is that what they specify? I appreciate it is just adhesive from there upwards. Do keep posting as it is interesting to see how it works.

Like Jeanne Calment I think who had a deal where she agreed to pass on her apartment on her death in return for a regular payment while she was alive. She ended up being the oldest person in France and outlived the beneficiary by a large margin. The regular payments apparently amounted to double the value of the place.

Another vote for face fixing to the wall. Glass balustrade may be nicer than railings if you want to avoid the caged feel. Kids are like lemmings. Be aware that if you have furniture on the balcony they will climb on it and risk falling.

I think you will really struggle to make this work. The concrete may not be flat enough, the edges could be chipped or ragged, incorrect size etc. I have used a flat shower in a posh hotel and the water went all over the bathroom floor. Really slippery and wet feet all the time.

The concrete fill in the icf looks very neat and the walls look nice and straight. No grout runs or bursts. Do you build studwork against the walls for services and plasterboard?