Mr Punter

Just resubmit and leave the entrance as existing. You can later install gates without seeking further consent. Highways can be sticklers for these things but their only point of power will be to object to the application and they cannot do this if the access is unchanged.

The Tyvek UV membrane also has a sticky tape about 75mm wide that is the same black material. I have used this for other applications externally and it seems really good quality.

It is very unlikely that you will have all 3 sets open at once. Render 2 looks OK. There looks like a potential clash with the plinth bricks but if this can be avoided the sidelights will allow the doors to open further and be held open with cabin hooks.

Your steel could cost £50k. Can you just do 200mm hollowcore concrete floors instead?

Air to air is great when the external air temperature is high. For solar gain only, external shading is a good solution but will make the room dark.

I have done 50mm MOT on chalk for a patio and 300mm hardcore, terram and 100mm MOT on clay for a driveway. It really depends on ground conditions.

What is supporting the screed long term? I have seen biscuit mix used on top of the floor deck, between battens, but not between joists. 300ga will be OK as a separation layer. It is good to have a layer of insulation to stop the heat going to the floor below.

I have steel framed cantilevered balconies, galvanized and powder coated, with obscure glazed balustrade and ipe decking fixed to iroko joists and with stainless steel handrail. They are about 2.9m x 1.5m. Cost was horrific at over £6000 each.

It is very bad form to feed a service through the wrong duct type but it if that is what you have then you need to be pragmatic. If you have not ducted up to the car port, do this with the correct ducts. I assume the one your have is electric duct and the cable is SWA?

The covering on the dormer at the back looks a different colour to the others so make sure your surveyor checks it. The main roof looks fine save a few rafters / battens sagging near the gables. Also the house has had retro fit cavity wall insulation and this can sometimes lead to damp issues so check for this. Sadly I think many of the warranties are worthless. A coat of StormDry on the outside of any affected walls would probably solve any issues if they are caused by saturation from rain crossing the cavity.

It would be best to get in touch with Velux.

I think these can be a world of pain. I would rather have the insulation right down to the box gutter. Fill under the ply box with compressible insulation. Cut a strip of rigid 150mm insulation maybe 400mm wide at exactly the correct angle to slide snugly up to the ply, then use this strip to start laying the remaining insulation. Don't bother with the stop battens. Where does water discharge? Have you accounted for overflow?

It may be worth checking the ceiling for unusual staining.

We have been 10kWh/day gas in the summer for dhw and gas hob for 4 of us. Electric tends to be about 15kWh/day year round.

A few years ago it was common to park a car in the drive and another across the front.

I could hardly notice. It would be a nightmare now getting all the battens completely levelled.

This line issue has made you come over a bit Spanish in your title.

I would just go for a cheap grab adhesive. I used some Wickes stuff a couple of months ago for some skirting and it worked fine.

The wall looks OK but the coping looks a bit shagged. It looks like a nice driveway. Find something else to spend your money on.

Just be nice to the guy, tell hime the cost to save the place is vast and you will be demolishing soon as it is unsafe.

+1 get the spec from your DNO. You can sometimes deviate a little as the guys doing the connection are not jobsworths. Our DNO spec called for a concrete base but we did wall mounted as the ground had a fair amount to make up and we need to route further cables in future. The days of mounting a meter box on a couple of 2 x 2s are over.

I often see plumbers who drill from the inside. No pilot or careful drilling, just straight through for an overflow, condense or blow off pipe, spalling the brick face or render as they go.

I think it may be better with 75mm x 50mm vertical at max 600 ctrs fixed with screws, then 25mm x 50mm horizontal fixed wiith Paslode nails. You will use less timber and the horizontals will be less prone to twisting off. Another vote for slate hooks as they are more secure and no chattering in the wind.

That does look very impressive. Could your average sparky, tacker, plasterer and decorator achieve this without messing up and blaming each other?

The links you posted seemed to be from vested interests so I take them with a pinch. I have a WC on the top (fourth) floor of my house. It has PIR in the roof and walls but no window. South facing wall. The door connecting to the landing is normally closed. In spite of it being baking elsewhere in the house, the top floor WC has remained pretty stable. Anywhere with a window (which are triple glazed), even when the sun is not on them, gets considerable heat gain. I also have a similar space but below a sloping roof with PIR and it is used to house the boiler. It is always fairly warm but not noticably more so in the hot weather. I really don't think that PIR is the cause of your troubles. More likely solar gain.