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I think power requirements have changed since it was built - definitely going to need more than 2 sockets per room. Good point.

I think this is the way I'd like to go, ie bring it up to 140mm with Frametherm 32 then vcl then plasterboard. Affixing new vertical battens onto the existing studs would be fairly easy I think (long screws). Thought about going with new horizontal battens fixed to the existing studs to reduce thermal bridging with 2 layers of insulation but I think that might make sheeting more difficult than it needs to be.

Not sure I understand insulating over the face of the studs, would that be with some sort of solid block insulation which can be attached to the studs and then the plasterboard hung off that?

Yeah you're right. I'm just annoyed that neither the home report surveyor nor the surveyor we instructed to examine some badly spalled brickwork picked up on it. An architect I know said he knew within minutes of being in the house that it was timber framed.

So, We bought a timber frame house (having been told it was masonry!) Looking to find out the best way to retrofit some extra insulation. It appears to be: brick - cavity- tyvek - osb - insulation - membrane - plasterboard. Built around 1995/96. Originally my plan had been to for external insulation + cladding but I guess that's not going to do anything with a ventilated cavity. So given the rooms are a fairly decent size I'm thinking of adding another 100mm or so of rock wool (or similar) on top of the existing timber frame insulation. Perhaps running horizontally studs across the existing vertical studs. We'd remove the existing vapour barrier and fit a new one behind the new plasterboard. Is this something anyone has done before? Thanks! Nick

Just bought a brick and block cavity house (according to the home report) which is actually a timber frame build with brick outer leaf! I should be a surveyor!