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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    I have bought some Siberian Larch from Vastern Timber near Wootton Bassett. They do other cladding as well. If you want eco, Sweet Chestnut seems the thing. If you want it to look like your picture you will be up there every 2 years coating, stripping and pampering. Probably more fun just to take on a mistress.
  2. Mr Punter
    Are you considering a pair of semi detached? It may be an easier way to gain consent, then try for 2 x detached later.
  3. Mr Punter
    It is only brick and block on the ground floor and no big panels. The project is finished and he picked this up on a final inspection. I may end up cutting down some of those micro weeps and just sticking them in a little way if I have to. I could understand if it was further up the wall, like a meter box or a lintel, where you want to direct any moisture outwards, but these are at DPC level.
  4. Mr Punter
    The vents are on top of the dpc so I can't figure out how any water would make its way to a weep hole instead of just running down the telescopic vent and ending up under the beam and block floor.
  5. Mr Punter
    I have just had a visit from a warranty inspector and he said I needed a weephole above each airbrick. The airbricks are on the DPC with no cavity tray above or below and they have telescopic vents to the underside of the beam and block flooring. This is brick and block. The cavity is fully filled with rigid insulation which extends down below DPC and is sculpted around the telescopic bit. Should we have the weepholes or are they not required?
  6. Mr Punter
    I do not think this is a party wall issue. I would not bother serving a party wall notice as it will cost you time and money. The council could in theory apply for an injunction to stop you doing the work and you may be liable for their costs, but I very much doubt this would happen.
  7. Mr Punter
    If your new foundation does not extend below the current foundation I think this is outside the act.
  8. Mr Punter
    Yes already have. It is well understood by all. That said, we have a table and chairs on a balcony and a small child of a visitor was very soon climbing on the chair, one foot on the table and leaning over. Same child at home is allowed to jump all over the furniture.
  9. Mr Punter
    1.1m is fine. It is the same standard height required for a balcony handrail.
  10. Mr Punter
    Maybe it would be cost effective to have 50mm pir sheets against the blockwork and fill the residual cavity with bonded graphite eps beads.
  11. Mr Punter
    I don't think the doors are not made Velfac which is why they are not fitted the same as the 200 series windows. You can drill the frame or fix some cranked steel plates to the outside of the frame and fix these to the walls. Packers around the frame to make sure is is held straight / plumb. Rehang the door and make sure it swings nicely, then foam the inside and mastic the outside.
  12. Mr Punter
    Strip all the crap from the walls. Cut out the crap bit of ceiling and replace with MR board. Dry the room properly for a couple of weeks. Fit an extractor with a timer wired to light and set the overrun to 20mins. Use the blue grit on the walls after they have properly dried. Re-tile with cement based adhesive from a bag. Grout to finish.
  13. Mr Punter
    I am not sure what the deal was with your firm but there is the danger that the drawings were done on the expectation of the firm then being engaged to supply the timber frame so they may argue that your licence to use the drawings would be extinguished. Have you asked them?
  14. Mr Punter
    Copyright is far from straightforward but if you want to go to another timber frame firm or another build method you will probably need a fresh set of drawings in any case. It is very expensive to sue for breach of copyright and if your new drawing is in any way different you can claim that it is a new, original design.
  15. Mr Punter
    Best to stop the screed at doorways as it will perhaps crack. Leave a 10mm expansion gap exactly halfway under where the door will be. Do the same for tiles if you are having them.
  16. Mr Punter
    Also you would not get a structural warranty and therefore no mortgage and you could not resell.
  17. Mr Punter
    I was NHBC registered for a while as they were pretty much the only show in town at one stage. Sometimes you would get a decent inspector but mostly it was just the same checklist for the stage and they would look at stuff like door closers and window locks then shift to other irrelevant things. I would say the chances of a claim succeeding is close to zero, although I did have one where someone had weather ingress around a door - just needed re-sealing - after 7 years and NHBC "invited" me to fix it to keep my claims record clean. As I was liable for only 2 years I didn't play ball and in the end NHBC got someone to do the work without cost to the customer or me.
  18. Mr Punter
    You will need solid blocking at each end between the joists to stop them twisting. Get the floor designer to spec how these are fixed.
  19. Mr Punter
    I am not sure of all the rules with agricultural PD rights but you will often be obliged to retain a fair amount of structure so there is no guarantee that your proposal will gain consent. It can also take ages, so factor in an additional 6 months. If the current consent would work for you as a fallback you may be able to start work on some of the basics while you wait.
  20. Mr Punter
    Not sure what boards were used, what fixings were used and what they were fixed to? I would normally expect to see min 25mm x 50mm battens at 600mm max centres fixed vertically through the sheathing to the timber frame studs with min 60mm stainless screws at max 250mm centres. The boards then fixed to the battens with 30mm stainless screws at max 200mm centres.
  21. Mr Punter
    @Bitpipe Is there continuous ventilation at the base of the cladding system with a decent path up behind? Is it just this gable end or other walls too?
  22. Mr Punter
    Jesus!
  23. Mr Punter
    They do a 90mm ring nail for the im350 But just checked and not the case
  24. Mr Punter
    Not used Mayply but as discussed earlier I have been cautioned against use of Magnesium Oxide boards. I would go BBA certified.
  25. Mr Punter
    Most of the shrinkage movement in timber frame is at floor junctions, so horizontal joints are often specified at this location. I don't understand why you would need vertical movement joints in timber frame render onto board.
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