Mr Punter

I seem to remember flagging up issues with removing adhesive and the levelling things...

It looks huge. At the moment there is not that much the I really love about it. Does it look good from the outside? Perhaps look at some front elevations you like for this house size around the location you are going to build in. Check out Rightmove and see what you find excites you.

It is really landfill hungry. I don't think there would be any way to recycle or reuse the materials or even dispose of them in an environmentally friendly way.

This is not ground rent it is maintenance which will be part of service charges. All costs are normally passed on to leaseholders

Don't get 3 bags! Don't breathe it in! It is dustier than cement.

A house near us had this fitted as the architect is into eco stuff. Although the sheeps wool was treated, it suffered from moths, which were very difficult to eradicate.

You would need the roof membrane or sarking on before there is any wind uplift risk. Mortar will not prevent uplift, you need mechanical fixing, like straps down the wall. The SE should spec this.

I find it quite concerning that most of these membranes burn very readily. Cut a bit off, light it at the bottom and you often need to drop it quickly before your hand get burnt. They are normally classed E fire resistance which means almost nothing.

About 4 months ago I read a long document that had criteria from many lenders. I can't remember if it was aimed at valuers or brokers, but with timber frame lots wanted brick / block outer leaf. It was not the main thing I was looking at. Flood risk, above commercial, multi storey, tenant type were more of interest. Grenfell has put everyone off non brick or block. I think Trada etc did no favours by not emphasising fire risk. Once you cannot easily gain insurance, you cannot get funding and your asset is worth sod all.

With the water pump you need to lie it sideways with the power cord upwards , similar to how you are holding it in the last picture.

With the fridge freezers I like to have a socket on flex under the adjacent plinth and the water supply at the back under the same adjacent unit. It means you can handle the pipe and wires, knowing they won't get snagged. I also run a "dam" of mastic on the floor around the back and towards the front so that any leak will become visible at the front of the appliance. Not pretty but not visible when the fridge is in.

Ask the neighbour if it is OK to fix the end of a panel to his workshop. Are the adjacent pieces of land secure? You really should secure the site with fencing - Heras type is simplest - to prevent unauthorised access. It will help to prevent theft, trespass and vandalism.

Yes to the packers and it may be worth running flooring under washing machine, dishwasher and other floor standing appliances so you do not get a 12mm lip when removing them. We always floor throughout and have never had an issue. Mainly use engineered wood glued down. I have seen a floating floor lift where it is fitted without a perimeter expansion gap.

He would have drawn it up in CAD and marked each tile on the wall. Are you employing the technique of bathing in tile adhesive and throwing yourself at the wall? It does look good but maybe try to keep stuff cleaner if possible. Are those levelling things reusable? Anyway, pull your finger out and get the rest of that wall on, leaving the rips for later. Chop Chop!

That is looking really good. It is worth removing the surplus adhesive from the tiles before it goes off.

A picture paints a thousand words...

It still seems strange that there has been so much cracking. I like the look of the place but it has caused a surprising number of issues. Hacking off that render looks like a nightmare job but it will look crap otherwise. Hopefully now the building has been up a while, with the remedial work there should be no more issues on the render front. Who is paying for this?

How deep is the SIP? Does it need any extra insulation? I am just trying to work out the overall wall thickness. I would rather be in your place during a severe storm than with rainscreen cladding supported by SIP panels.

Would cement based cladding be of interest?

I have seen an increasing number of lenders who want a brick or blockwork skin.

Yes, so you may be able to get them to take off 2 metres. Have a chat and see what they say. What is at either end of the bay? Double yellows? Disabled? Driveway? Whatever, it should not be insurmountable but it may cost a few quid for road markings etc.

The Dupont Tyvek UV Facade membrane is excellent. A matt black finish.

It is how they assess parking availability and take up. This is how the Lambeth Methodology works for parking stress surveys.

Perhaps a change of diet or put away the porn.

I think a 50mm strip of plasterboard may be best, with a stop bead at the top. You can fix it with a timber batten. Maybe the join would be better around the side than around the bottom face. It will need either plastering or filling.