Mr Punter

I think your builder has the right idea. Steel should be shallower section than timber. Can you lose the posts in the walls either side? I would not involve BC as you are just reducing bounce in the floor.

It is a good point. That roof is overdue for its annual strip off and replace.

Often see this in old timber framed houses. The bricks will need to be easy to clean - so previously laid in a lime mortar. If they are clean, they may be worth a bit second hand. The sole plates will need a decent bearing. You could add a long screw or nail into a stud every 6 courses to tie it in.

Not the best. I am not sure why the ridge fixings are not screwed down more. As you know, these systems are fairly fool proof so unlikely to leak or work loose. Is there a crack in a tile on the bottom row?

You could move in with @pocster

You could just buy a big boy gas combi. Unlimited showers. No messing with tanks etc. Loads cheaper to run. Any gas plumber can install cheaply. You could get one with a bit of storage. A fair bit of the electric you use on your ASHP is made by burning gas.

I have a similar setup in a scheme I am about to start. GRP is the favourite solution. If you do it in lead you need welts to join the lengths together and they will trap the water. Just use the lead for the vertical wall. You may need to introduce a hopper on the downpipe or take the lead round the corner a bit and drain into the gutter lower down - when it is there.

I have weighed up the gas route. If you can get a connection for £2k you will save a fair bit over the lifetime of the boiler. Get a setup so you can switch to ASHP cheaply in the future.

You could make a hole either side above your new lintel and slide in 2 new supports going into the back wall. Actually what @Carrerahill said.

If you get a builder to construct, do you have to pay VAT to them? Is there VAT on new house purchases?

I would be tempted to sell the site. The money you get is tax free. There is currently a shortage of land and a surplus of cash. Ask a very decent amount for it. Start with optimistic end value minus 20 to 25%.

No wonder you are smiling in the profile photo!

Excellent. Without reading the whole thread, did their new fee proposal involve a new solution?

The cantilevers are one for your architect / engineer. Maybe Durisol can give you a steer.

It is because you have increased your defensible space. Once the planting matures a bit it will be less dominant. Nice not to have to look at the neighbours if you choose not to (gorgeous though I am sure they are).

Piccies please? We have helped you through a 2 page thread... If it looks crap it will at least make others feel better!

Yes. 10mm is probably the largest size through the sieve, so it will be the same. Check with the groundworker so he does not have a strop. If you are getting a lot it may be cheaper to have it tipped loose.

Not exactly cosy! It has the essence of a car showroom.

I aim to exchange on plots within 2 weeks of receipt of full legal paperwork but it can stretch to 4. We expect the other side to get back immediately with replies to enquiries. You normally need cash to buy a plot.

Typical architect! Ours is a fake, although they probably claim it is "inspired by"... The picture is my wife's office. Mine is downstairs and is a lot messier, or more practical as I prefer.

Pickawood. They are based in Germany but manufacture in eastern Europe. You design what you want and can specify sizes etc. It was good for us as I wanted to house a printer, some filing, speakers, vacuum, ironing board etc and I did not want any sockets and cables. The desktop for the laptop was from someone over here. It was quite expensive to do but this room gets used a lot.

I have got the Urban Concrete in a TV / office / spare bedroom multi function room. I battened out the wall to run cables behind and had the furniture floating(ish).

Unless you are doing this as a business I don't see the point. You can easily keep a record of expenses. It may be worth getting someone to do your VAT reclaim.

The services would be best in ducting and covered over with sand.

8mm deflection is good. They will often spec 12mm, which is the maximum for NHBC / mass produced cheap housing and can feel bouncy.