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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. I think a fresh planning application may be the way I am afraid. I don't think there is any mechanism for extending the period. Another option could be reduce dig the footprint and to dig and pour the footing at the end. You may need to cast in some rebar to connect up later to the footings which require the PWA.
  2. 3 but all are FD30 weight.
  3. I think your chances of success depends on what was quoted for and agreed. If you only asked for a wear layer of tarmac you may not fair so well. If you asked them to excavate to a decent subgrade removing all vegetation, lay 150mm sub base, 50mm binder layer and 25mm wear layer then you are in with a very good shout.
  4. To me it just looks like an extended curtail feature tread, but square instead of rounded.
  5. They will if they work as bricklayers!
  6. It is not ideal and may be noisy in the rooms below. The outside unit spits out hot air via fan, compressor and condenser. You may need the loft to be extra ventilated.
  7. I don't think this will make much difference to you. In summer the internal and external temperatures are fairly similar. If you have an issue with overheating, your MVHR unit will not do much to help. Get a split a/c unit.
  8. Well you smelled a rat and you were right. Time to find a new team. Is there much work to do? Maybe your job can be fitted in by another firm? Does your bricklayer know anyone? Can you get any recommendations?
  9. They don't look great. I have never really thought about joist quality varying by manufacturer. Is this Mitek? Could you ask them to confirm that they are to standard?
  10. Most contractors insurance covers third party damage. Are you hoping to insure against damage only to a party wall? The standard contractors policy would cover the whole of the land and buildings as well as people, pets etc.
  11. Sadly bricklayers don't see it as their job to install insulation correctly.
  12. Standard, I am afraid. If they were reliable, eye for detail, professional and well organised they would not be working on a building site. Fixed price may be better. They may be more incentivised if they are earning well.
  13. This will help a bit if they are south facing, but not 100% Here is one we did with an 1800mm overhang, south facing picture at 13:15 on 20 April and the sun is still halfway up the windows:
  14. You need checked reveal cavity closers. These come without the flange on the brick side. You normally need to run a DPC down behind the brickwork.
  15. Definitely no and I think you should get at least 2 more quotes. If there is a difference of £9000, what were the actual quotes? I have found that overheating is a bigger deal in a new house than heat loss. Look at reducing the glazed areas if possible, especially in bedrooms.
  16. I think this will be by you or at extra cost. The bricklayer will only want to touch them once.
  17. No most of the liquid screeds are fine at 50mm so the 25mm would be best as insulation if you want liquid. The cement based ones are easier to tile than the anhydrite ones.
  18. The weepholes are in the bottom of the frame with a cill under to direct the water clear of the brickwork.
  19. That is certainly how it seems! Have you looked at the costs compared to buying one that is already done? https://www.rightmove.co.uk/properties/100474853#/
  20. If you don't like the design you need to go back to the engineer and / or Nudura. Your builder has just done what was specced.
  21. A site near me had 3 no. piles installed to lock in the consent. Another demolished some buildings.
  22. The second lot of pictures you posted have red mortar. I assume you are using standard mortar. If you are sure that the bricks you have are the same make as those that were approved and you are happy with them, just carry on. With the shortage in labour and materials at the moment you would be crazy to stand your builder and bricklayer down.
  23. Don't tear or cut through the paper and foil both at once. Leave the paper longer than the foil.
  24. Ask the owners of the surrounding houses what foundation type and cost they had. Will at least give you an indication. There does not look to be any trees nearby, but perhaps there were? It is quite easy to excavate and trench fill a 2m deep foundation.
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