nod

Your starting to sound like Onoff Joe ???

The pre painted always come at a premium as they are sprayed in a workshop Then glazed You won’t get that factory finish painting them yourself and it won’t be as long lasting Ours was specified sash paint finish (33 frames) I’d to argue with planners and Heritage for week to be allowed to use Upvc wood grain finish Most walking past think the frames are timber

We used Spanish grade A My wife and myself fixed all 5000 to help keep the cost down I don’t think em we could have run to a fiver each

Plus one In the grand scheme of things It would be nothing to start a fresh and save you a load of hassle further down the line

I would get the land valued as is Without any planning permission

I received this today I can’t imagine paying a fee for a quote

The thickness of the tile dictates the thickness of adhesive 12 mil tile 12 mil adhesives I wouldn’t ever go less than 8 for anything other than sticking matting down Bagged adhesive is better to use and cheaper than the tub stuff

As long as the foam on the back of the insulated plasterboards is pink in colour You can use drywall adhesive to fix it to the wall Then tile directly Onto it

Discharging in with the quote

It’s very expensive I’ve been quoted by the Architect that did our last build 1700 for design Similar for the full planning building regs and material submission

No We do it because it’s on the spec Nearly always housing association

It’s quite normal For full planning the planners require a design If the seller intends selling the plot on There no point in risking being rejected If a max of 12x10 is stated You can work your new design to those dimensions

The Parge coat we often use is more for sound deadening I never call it an airtight coat as it gives the impression that the dry liners don’t need to seal everything So we always call it sound coat So yes any kind of slurry is fine 3-1 stipple with a stiff brush will do the job Save £££

Definitely My brother is a Brickie But I wouldn’t recommend him to anyone ?

No it’s fine

I’m in the NW We were also lucky to have the services in front of the plot Electric 730 Gas 800 water 1100 Three years ago

It’s normal to simply counter baton using 75x25 dawn timbers These will even out the joists and allow you to pack any bad shapes

Reading the above D&B route would be a good option for you (One point of contact ) While the tendering system can push the price down It would be worth spending on a independent professional to compare the quotes As very often the lower quotes have items missing

You make a good point regarding the SE I would always get someone independent of the Architecht Giving the SE final say

I wonder if your pm could add the bottom bit to his CV Love it ?

It will dry in slightly slower But fine to mix the same thicknesses of PB

Short answer is yes You will need there permission to dig up there drive You may also find that while you have reasonable access This may not extend to lorry's and cranes Is there no other way to bypass there property

It will depend on what is specked on your drawings Some require a vapor barrier Most don’t

On Something like an extension Your builder will dig the footings out Then call building control to inspect prior to pouring the concrete Quite informal If he needs anything else he will tell you Once he’s involved you won’t have anymore dealings with planners Good luck

It is pretty standard stuff The strengthening they are referring to will Steel’s etc All part of the SE remit