nod

Laid on a screed is fine for paths and patios A full bed of mortar is the heavy duty option Don’t forget to paint the back of the flag with SBR. (Frost)

Great minds I’ve also friend who installs alarms Yours was exactly the point he made

We used Texecom Set and unset with my mobile Let’s me no if my alarm has been set or unset Can be linked to ADT monitored

Flexible tile adhesive will allow you to bed them and will stick like sit to a shovel

Most don’t bother with a labourer Silo mixed lifted to where they are working Same with bricks Extra on the rate for detailing Quoins etc If the stamp duty holiday hadn’t been extended Things would have gone the other way

Face work prices have just increased in our area (NW) £557 per 1000 Pushed up by Redrow and co

With a three acre field arched to the plots im looking to push the house behind the line of the other two houses to allow for the garage to be at a right angle at the front of the property Is it normal for planners to object to this

I work on both and while we leave a 5% retention on both The builders always pay us extra for TF maintenance As there are a lot more cracks on TF I would attribute at least some this to the speed in which the TF go up and are ready for windows and plaster

Don’t fill any plaster cracks to early TF and traditional will settle for at least six months Then it’s just a case of filling and re sealing

That what we are tempted to do

No consistency

Yep me neither Bit of background our friends are experienced SBs This is the third one in 30 years As you say he may have been a bit lenient with this They have fallen foul of the DA with hardcore heaped at the front doors 3 story and no fire doors BC has recommended a spray that can be applied to the doors that with make them 30 minutes each side Fire rated In not to sure about this While it is design and build My friend did all the design work So builder is reluctant to step up Fingers crossed ?

Airtightness is a big part of my business Mostly fireproofing But the same thing The fabric of our first build is extremely airtight Just the compulsory sash windows that let it down I put a post on here regarding friends that had emitted trickle vents (no MVR) They have since had there visit from BC and been told it is ok to not have trickle vents if they are able to open the window slightly and lock it in place Worth knowing

That amused me also I’ve never seen that rating before Bit worrying to think at a certain part of a storm we could be showered with glass

Yes To the right of my picture we have a set of French doors Which are used everyday in summer

We have bifold doors in our build Look great Only took me a couple of hours to fit Great selling point opening the house up to the garden Not over practical Never used in winter or windy conditions Very much all or nothing We’ve have decided to fit sliders on our next build It would be nice to leave the door slightly open and also not have the house fill with dust

These are some we considered first time round Aluminum and double glazed If someone could add there numbers as a comparison It would give me a good reference point

Do Rationel do a supply only Dave From experience some are the larger companies prefer to supply and fit

On our first build we were pretty much hamstrung by British Heritage Who insisted on sash windows throughout So triple glazing was never an option While we went for the best sash windows on the market they are a long way from being airtight This time we will have no such restrictions While we are moving into a rural area We will be on a 50 mph lane A car every couple of minutes But that could change So we intend to have far better sound insulation this time At the front of the house at the very least My question to other that are going down this route is Will Triple glazing make a significant difference to sound or heat retention Or both Is it worth treble glazing all Even the large windows and sliders

It’s normal to fix 70 or mil insulated PB to the underside of the rafters You can add a layer of 15 SB board on top of that if you want

I was all set to include MVR Ib our first build and a friend stated the opposite to you Whenever his neighbor burnt leaves (most days) His MVR drew the smell in A regular poster JH stated the same about a chimney near him Which put my wife off My view would be like closing a window You can always switch the MVR Personally While I’ll never see the point of PV I would sooner use the money on MVR Though I would make sure the design of the house is suitable Jack makes a good point about glass The friends we visited yesterday that are having MVR problems Live in a very exposed place With lots of full height glazing So may be barking up the wrong tree trying to fix The MVR

You can do what ever suits for the makeup As long as any fire stop or vapor barrier goes in as per drawing

We didn’t put MVR in our first build Mainly due to a friend telling us it was drawing fumes in from a neighbors fire I’d pretty much decided to fit MVR in our next two Visiting a friend today has made us think twice He’s had two years problems with his MVR Latest being it knocks itself off at 13c Someone is going to fit an external heater to it ? When we left my wife asked If we couldn’t spend the money elsewhere Is it just Something else to go wrong I suppose the planning and fitting would play a big part in how worthwhile it is

I built two DG with our build three years ago I allowed 15k for the neighbors no doors included Double skinned block work slate roof 20 k sounds about right to me

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