Hobbiniho

As nick has said when using air you would need to spray every joint with leak detect spray (soapy water) simply leaving it for an hour and measuring the pressure drop isnt sufficient. I do a lot of pressure testing at work, both hydrostatic and with nitrogen i much prefer hydrostatic as it only takes a small leak for the pressure to drop and is easily seen, in a domestic situation im not really sure why you wouldnt use water considering the relatively small volumes involved and the added danger with using compressed air, i wonder if the manyfacturer rates their equipment for pressure testing with air ?

You should be able to lift 6m high with a "hiab" crane truck, you would be amazed at the height that some of them can lift to, theres a company local to me that have just got a new truck ?

i have calls aswell i have a DECT phone plugged into the back of the router, i just have a cheap unlimited smarty phone sim for £18.75 a month, it means that i have a mobile number for my "house phone" which confuses a lot of people, i dont get amazing signal 12-15mb but its better then the maximin 8mb that BT were offering for £36 a month

ok so you have at decent signal then yes it would be worth looking into, i have a huawei b525 and a poynting xpol 1 omni directional antenna, if you know the location of your towers then a directional antenna will be better, and dont forget that a proper antenna will get better signal than an iphone

Is it really worth installing an external antenna if you can only get a GSM signal (GPRS, EDGE) you would really need 3G or 4G to get a decent speed.

How did you figure out your heat losses for each room, you should search for j harris spreadsheet, this will figure out the heat losses for each room then you can select a suitably sized "emitter". Also 42 degrees flow temp is quite high for an ASHP, mine is run at 36 but the emitter size was calculated for 35 flow temp, so if you are struggling with quite a big radiator and a 42 degree flow temp, a bigger ASHP isnt going to make much of a difference, is the current ASHP delivering the flow temp reliably?

First question, are the radiators single panel or double?. I have panasonic air rads downstairs and normal steel panel rads upstairs, mine are double panel and quite "big" for the size of room, i would not want air rads running in a bedroom when im trying to sleep, i basically cant hear my ones downstairs but there is other noise, tv, dishwasher, fridge etc. if you think you can program it so that the heating isnt on when your sleeping then air rads are good at what they do but as you said they are expensive

You are probably best to have a good read of the paving expert website https://www.pavingexpert.com/ this will have the best advice. Basically you will need to lay them on a full wet bed of mortar, the thing you will have to take into account is the randow size layout.

Unless you use some kind of hidden fixing anything you use will be seen. You could use masonary screws for the smallest fixing, or use a hilti dx 460 and just nail the steel straight to the blocks

I have an old property that i part refurbished, i have a 7kw panasonic ASHP, i have panasonic air rads in the livingroom/kitchen area and normal double radiators everywhere else. I have a 255l hot water cylinder as i only heat my hot water to 48deg, and i run my flow temp at a fixed 36deg. The biggest thing is to make sure you understand the insulation and airtightness has to be carefully considered, ASHP are better used to keep a constant temp in for example a slab with UFH, dont think that you can come home and fire up the heating and the house will be warm in an hour or so, basically if you dont have decent insulation and air tightness levels ASHP is probably a bad idea

Any access to lift it into place with a crane truck? If not it shouldnt be that hard tomake some kind of a ramp its not exactly high

would it be possible that you could cover 1 elevation with the old tiles and tile the other with all new tiles or is there not enough old tiles? i have worked on a couple of roofs like this, also has the added benefit that the elevation that is seen from the road had all old tiles so couldnt tell there was an extension, you might also have a few old tiles left over for future repairs. As declan said they would probably fit with a small amound ground off, what they have done is absolutely shocking really

interesting to read the replies, as said they uses sips to speed up construction, essentially each room was a stand alone pod and then they were just stacked together and plugged in, it really makes me wonder as i have recently refurbed my house and i used PIR internally, it is suspected that the fire started in an upstairs linen room, and then spread quite rapidly to the roof

First thing i will say is i have never seen timbers stacked vertically like that to make up the top plate detail on a timber frame, also the "roof truss" sppears to be missing a considerable amount of structure, and appear to be drawn as if they are going to be cut on site and overlapped at the eves and the drawing doesnt show a ridge board, the first drawing indicates it is section "B1" however on the plan drawing i dont see the corresponding line to show where "B1" is showing the section of. i am struggling how you will connect the tripple top plate to the studs, also 400 centres seems excessive as there isnt exactly a massive amount of load on the roof to hold up, in my opinion it has been drawn by someone with little timber frame experience

iv worked on sites with urinals although they werent open air you will still need water to flush it or it will stink pretty quickly, although most sites i worked on also had a wooden box with a toilet in it aswell all plumbed into the public sewer, i think if you have a public toilet 400m away you could chance it, if you didnt have it the guys would likely piss around the back of the skip anyway so might aswell provide them with a urinal that you have half a chance of keeping "clean"

Following a horrific fire at a modern hotel local to me two nights ago (everyone got out safe) i have wondered if there are any opinions on the use of SIPS from a fire safety point of view, im sure everyone is aware of grenfell but maybe not the problems associated with rigid polyurethane foam type insulation when subjected to fire, for the people that have SIPS houses, was fire risk taken into consideretion or even talked about when considering build method??. I know i am talking about a commercial building that has been built using a pre-fab style of construction, but the point im am trying to make is that SIPS seem to behave very poorly in a fire compared to more traditional build methods, some interesting comments have been made locally that we now live in a "build it cheap and throw it away after a few years" society. https://www.shetnews.co.uk/2020/07/27/investigation-underway-after-huge-fire-destroys-moorfield-hotel/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wz9KRTgVCc

i bought a large access panel from a company in lithuania, i found them for sale in the uk but only the smaller sizes, the postage was very fast it depends on what you want as i went for the plasterboard hatch but they have many other types of hatches availiable https://www.el-vent.com/en/alustar-mega-large-dimensions-access-doors. you can see the hatch that i bought half way up the stairs, this covers my consumer unit, broadband router etc

So just makita's version of flexvolt

Yeh option A is the fastest way to do it, you would be mental to fit all the internal partitions first then try to cut all the plasterboard to fit around them, as you will need a massive amount more dwangs in the celing to catch the ends of the boards you are making a massive amount of work for yourself, obviously load bearing walls will need to be built first. I have never seen nor heard of fixing stud walls in with expanding foam that to me sounds lik a commpete bodge to me

In the instillation guide for the concrete canvas it says "prepare the surface so it is well compacted, geotechnically stable and has a smooth and uniform surface" you say that it may collapse so it is not geotechnically stable, this stuff is for providing a quick cost effective protective top layer for streams, rivers etc it is not for shoring excevations, there are strict guidelines for working in trenches, if you cannot bench the excevation due to space constraints then you need propper shoring as your diagram shows.

what i would do is go to a electrical wholesaler and purchase a roll of 2.5mm flex and a wireable RCD plug and extension socket, this way you can make it as long as you want

it absolutely will not cover the cost of the loan, using the RHI calculator and inputting the data that @Bornagain has provided would give less than £1000 payment over 7 years, without having the exact figures from the EPC its a bit of a guess When i installed an ASHP my energy demand went from 21000KWh/year to 16000KWh/year due to the change from storage heater to ASHP the only change to the house was the heating system, the water heating demand actually went up as the old setup had a very very small DHW tank and i installed a 255l despite only having 1 bathroom

no you are quite right, i wouldnt expect the actual width of the trench to be within 10mm but the centre should be within 10mm, it really isnt hard to use string lines to set out a foundation any "tradesman" that cannot set it out to within those tolerences is either not competent or simple doesnt give a toss, i will say that i have only ever worked with timber frame so if you get the block underbuilding out by 10mm your timber frame wont fit the hardest site that i have had to shutter and pour strip foundations onto was at about a 40 degree angle which made it difficult but not impossible, a concrete pour that is more than 10mm out on level isnt really acceptable in my opinion however this may be fine if working with brick/block or have a lot of underbuilding to take make up the difference, dont forget that if you make a good job of the foudations it makes everything else easier as you arent chasing mistakes and trying to fix them on subsequent build stages

In the times that i have laid foundations anything more than 10mm out i would have got a slap, there was 1 job i was working on where i managed to lay the blinding 15mm too high and the site manager had a right go at me, the solution was to remake the shuttering smaller. There really is no excuse for having any measurements out by more than 10mm when doing foundation work, not sure what is acceptable with brick/block as iv never worked with it but with timber frame if you are out by more than 5mm you either need new glasses or a new tape measure

we are starting to run out of ullage space at work and there is a shortage of tankers, it will be really close whether or not a tanker can be found before we run out of ullage, there is a serious glut of oil around the world and such a low demand for oil that lots of tankers are sitting full