Super_Paulie

well looks like its unanimous, or all in cahoots with the missus. My thoughts were more room on the top for all the crap gadgets like air fryers etc but yeah, middle might be best to reduce the clutter as well. we actually had the sink to the left in the old kitchen before we extended, wasnt an issue at all but it was more of necessity as we didnt have the island space then.

looking for opinions on this one. The missus wants the sink the middle of the worktop so that when using the oven you have space directly next to it to lay your trays. I prefer the sink to the left to free up the worktop. Does anyone have any first hand experience with a sink in the middle and do you find it a hinderance rather than a positive? We have a dishwasher so the sink use is minimal. Still got a few days before the floor gets foamed in, so have a chance to agree to disagree etc. Cheers!

I'm with John, that's what I use as well. I'm still not a fan though, I find it bunches up more than I would ideally like. It still seems to do the trick though, but I'm happy to see another invention come around to make it foolproof.

I used to love copper, still enjoy the process of putting it together, but when I had to run pipes 30m I could do it with zero joins, was a no brainer to go plastic.

i always try to do the same for my outside water and sockets. My thinking is that if in the future i need to move it or whatever then i just have a bit of mortar and a few small holes to repair rather than a 25mm hole in a brick.

nothing wrong with it at all, except the price will surely be way more. Install time, joints, all in excess of a pipe from A to B with no joins. Only copper in my system are the parts on show (tails) and parts where i needed compression (tank, manifold). I would personally insist on continuous unbroken runs of plastic if i was getting someone in.

I used them, or the screwfix equivalent i forget. Did what you suggested, 22mm (or 25mm, i forget) hole with the SDS, hammer in some plastic pipe for sleeving and then insert. The mounting screws are close to the "hole" but it worked just fine I chased the inside, so as soon as it comes into the house i soldered a 90degree and straight down the chase to under the floor where i convert to plastic and take it back to the manifold for isolation. Bit tricky to solder in the chase without melting the sleeve but it worked just fine. No insulation inside the wall, seemed pointless really, i just siliconed outside and foamed the inside.

i had mine basically outside for 3 months. When i had the external wall taken out we were still actually using the kitchen (in a much reduced capacity) so i had the fridge freezer, washing machine and dishwasher out there. All worked great although in December I had to bring the fridge freezer into the adjoining room as it was too cold to actually operate. Builders weren't nice enough to board me in and going for milk in the morning was horrible, but all the gear survived just fine so id imagine a conservatory a significant thermal upgrade on this.

ive got 22mm caberdeck and then LVT. I got the caberdeck before i was reallly educated on the subject and i needed a structural floor to live on for the last year and a half while the build was ongoing. If i could go back id get something that isnt an insulator like cement board or whatever but it is what it is, ive already got it. If its rubbish i'll just switch the floor out in the future but quite frankly the house is warm enough as it is with having the radiators on for 10 minutes as its so well insulated and air tight. I put rads in as a backup incase the UFH doesnt work as intended (and to dry clothes etc!), the room is 90sqm open plan. In fact, if i could go back i wouldnt even bother with the UFH, but im all in now.

I'd go with the 150mm PIR, best bang for your buck and if it's supported on battens then it's rock solid ready for your pug mix. Here's my 170mm version, just need to tape over the joins.

im just doing the job in my place now but im using PIR, 2 layers of with the lower PIR between battens on nails and foamed in, the top layer on battens. Air-tight foamed where necessary, taped over and then the next layer of PIR foamed and taped. Then foam all around the perimeter. Zero drafts, cant feel any air movement at all but it wasnt an easy or quick job but it looks like it'll do the trick for my UFH. Too late to go back now anyways 😆 When i got down to the last piece it was like a howling gale underneath from the airbricks, all gone now.

havent leaked yet, seems a decent bit of kit.

Cheers gents. The 28mm goes on with a bit of cutting, slicing and cable ties. 35mm would have been better as JohnMo says, but this will work for me. Much appreciated as per 👍

I've just picked up some 28mm from Screwfix, see how that goes. That's as big as they went so I'll see how I feel about it.

I don't think I have it in me to start to carve up PIR again, was the most brutal part of the build so far! Nice analogy though 😆

I'm just about to seal up my floor. Forever. Before I do, what are people's preferred methods on insulation of the fittings within the void of a suspended floor? Or should I not bother?

Cheers guys. I've done what the majority have suggested above. The pipe leaves the floor around 100mm from the wall and is capped ready to extend into the cabinet when the time comes. Appreciate your input as always you lot 👍

sounds like a winner. So something like this, coming out on the room side of the joist and straight up into the unit. Could easily cut the unit out so the unit can be slid out if ever necessary and a false back on magnets or whatever to conceal it all. (waste not shown in image, obvs)

yeah this is coming up to the rear of a 300mm unit to the side of the washer. I could bring it up into the cupboard from the bottom like you say, i usually bring them up in the service void and then have a false back to conceal the workings so the cupboard is still free to use, and if i have major issues i can remove the cupboard and all the plumbing is still in-situ. However thinking about it i can see the advantages of having easier access to the valve the way you describe.

pipe is 15mm. If i chase the wall then it seemingly would be difficult to get that to come out at 90degrees unless i convert to copper below floor level, the bend radius isnt great on the layflat in comparison to a copper 90. Not a bad shout though.

mornin. Pretty easy one for the guys this morning. Ive got a situation where i need to bring up my cold feed for the washing machine and the wall is very close to the joist. There will be units over the pipe work. The wall is back to bare brick so it will need boarding which makes it even more tricky as it will project at least 20mm further. Do i: A) bring up between the brick and joist, manipulate the pipe to bring it past the board and then clip. Means the board wont be able to go as low as i would ideally like, or i could cut a channel from it B) go the other side of the joist and manipulate it back over. Means i can board lower but the pipe will be exiting the floor quite far out is possibly further out than the service void of the units C) chamfer the joist. Probably no good as its taking too much structure away but i threw in the picture for reference D), convert plastic to copper under the floor and then bring copper up with a few 45 bends. Means a joint under the floor which i was trying to avoid. Any opinions on best practice?

the Smiths SS80 is designed for low plinths like Ikea ones, based on the name im thinking they need a plinth that is 80mm high. Still might be a stretch but you aint gunna get smaller than that i bet. Smiths SS80

i have 2 large rads and 2 plinth heaters in my large space (70sqm) as a backup for the UFH. Those plinth heaters really chuck out some heat, might be worth looking at if you have a lot of kitchen units.

my "backup" radiators are the classical style i guess you'd call them, raw triple column and the heat they give out and retain compared to your standard radiator (that i have elsewhere) is unreal. They stay warm for hours afterwards when the others are stone cold. I have 22mm chipboard in mine which leaves me nervous for when i finally get round to commissioning it. If i could go back id defo get 18mm or a cement board of sorts but im all in now with the chipboard.

@JohnMo is really clued up on this and might be able to advise you further.