Super_Paulie

How on earth would I have used 25kw in 30 minutes as in the picture earlier. I mean I've got the heating on right now at 60°. Sack it all off for a log burner I say, at least I'll know for sure how many logs I've got.

That's exactly what I'm seeing, yeah. I'll get onto the chat with them tomorrow as something of obviously very wrong with that, too couldn't use that much kWh with my setup, the boiler couldn't do it. Technology sucks.

Got home and checked my smart meter. The 21st was Saturday and the recorded usage was pennies, like £2.80. Honestly man, why is everything just a chew on. I hope the smart meter is correct rather than my British gas account...

that is entirely possible, cant recall if it was plugged in actually as i just finished installing the rad tails. I cant see any grey bars though...? if you mean the like dashes, i guess that means no usage. It was barely on, so no idea how it was running at 50kwh, thats impossible.

heating controls are Nest thermostats. Only need to be on for an hour to go from 17 to 20 and thats where it pretty much stays. Yeah it kidna doesnt make sense does it... I'll check the meters when i get in and see the numbers.

hi gents. Just got my radiator system up and running for the first time. 7 Rads, 2 bed semi, just me and the missus living there. Boiler is a new last year Baxi 830 combi, 24w i believe. Set at 60 for the heating system. Looking at my "Energy usage" its excessive, 105kwh a day and the rads were only on for a couple of hours. Looking at one of the spikes it was nearly 25kwh for a half an hour, that doesnt even seem possible? Am i misreading this or is this just normal these days? house has all new insulation, and it does hold the heat nice so i found that the heating on for an hour was enough for the evening pretty much. But 100kw?! doesnt seem possible. I expected this to be at least half that.

its all done and passed bar final sign off on fittings. BC didnt require insulated plasterboard nor did my architect specify it, its just my own preference really. Plans are pre-jun22

its a 2m horizontal cast iron "style" rad in raw metal with triple columns, much like in the attached image. The part of the house its going in is the extension which is still at bare block and is insulated correctly to the best of my knowledge. At this stage im looking to keep the place as insulated as possible and i want to bring the rad circuit online now its getting colder and then i can work on my UFH over the winter, thats all ready to go bar laying the pipes. The rads are more to be eye candy as the UFH will do the bulk of the work. It seemed a no-brainer to use insulated board behind the rad as id only lose 40mm and the added bonus that it would push out the rad so the tails do not foul on the joist that is close to the wall. The wall is external and north facing, its always baltic in that part of the house even in summer.

hi guys. Any benefit of using an insulated board internally on my insulated cavity wall, mainly on the wall with a radiator? (brick-cavity-block) it would be a dot and dabbed (or foamed) insulated board. I was hoping to reduce the amount of heat lost through the wall behind the radiator but don't know if that is worth my while. I am due to mount the radiator asap and if its worth me doing the insulated board then i'll stand the rad off by the 40mm or whatever when im positioning my tails. So to speak... Cheers guys.

I take mine off as soon as the cooldown procedure is finished on the Ultimaker but it's basically as soon as you can touch the bed without losing finger prints... Sometimes they just pop off, most times I use a Stanley blade as a lever and once the vacuum is broken it lifts away.

ABS won't stick to glass unless you heat the plate and add an agent of some sort. Hairspray, glue or a slurry made from abs and acetone all work. The easiest and best way for me is to float on kapton and then squeegee out the water. Then heat it until it's dry and then wipe it over with acetone after every job. Sticks no problem but the tape will lift if you run large flat jobs and let it cool while still attached.

I pretty much exclusively use ABS for it's resistance to heat and it's sanding and polishing potential. You can sand it and then polish it up with just friction, I've got a carpet tile attached to a board that I use to generate the friction. You can't do that with pla, you'd be sick of your life. Horses for courses really, depends on what you're doing, it's all experience. With ABS i print on kapton tape on the glass plate on the Ultimaker, it's the best surface I've tried and I've tried them all. For pla I use a glue stick or salted water. Don't use pla often as it's sh1te.

Yeah we had one, a Z-Corp. Garbage to be fair. The resin printer is the highest resolution but the Ultimaker is the work horse.

the formlabs has a UV cover on it already to keep the resin good, but yeah its serious money

resin needs to be stored in a UV resistant container as the UV cures it. I leave the resin the tank in the machine for months at a time but the other stuff i keep in their own tank containers in a cupboard. If its filament you mean then it needs to be stored dry as they absorb moisture from the air. Especially PLA that is like a sponge and goes super brittle if you leave it out. I store filament in vacuum bags with those silica packs in.

Manual bed leveling is a chew on but not that bad. You get what you pay for really, my Ultimaker does auto bed leveling so it's a thing of the past for me. Pretty sure you can get an auto leveling add on for the cheap printers but no idea how good they are. 3D printers are a faff no matter what I'm afraid. You can do a duplicate job that worked perfectly and then the next time it just ends up a right clip. It's all about dialling in the settings to get the results you want but it's all experience really.

As long as you can keep your enclosure up to around 50° you'll be laughin. Can't say I've used ASA as we have no need but as long as the transition temperature is within your criteria it'll work. If it's open canopy then you'll get warping which is no good for rigid members.

I'm actually a 3D technician... I have an Ultimaker S5 and a Form 3 for my resin stuff. If you're going to do stuff that's in the sun then PLA will warp to sh!t as it's glass transition temperature is really low. For example a pla cup holder in your car will not be holding the cup after a summers day... you'd need to use ABS which would be nigh on impossible without an enclosure if you need to get it accurate. You could build a box over it, I did that previously with an old Ultimaker and it worked ok. Software wise I use Rhino and Fusion. Learning curve might be tough if you haven't used them before. SketchUp does work as you can export to .stl but you'll find anything round comes out basically a series of flat sides joined together.

ive got one of these and its been great. Its self powered so i guess an amp built in. Its big money in comparison to others though and im debating just going for a few smaller Google speakers maybe in my new extension as they seem pretty good for minimal outlay. But the Lithe has been rock solid for years and a good purchase.

as long as you dont cover the joists at the bottom then thats not a problem, they are exposed to the air underneath to take away moisture. Ive retrofitted my entire ground floor with PIR and its not without its challenges but its nothing a tight fitting cut wont sort with some air-tight foam and aluminum tape. 100mm wool or 100mm PIR, its a no brainer in my eyes as its double the effectiveness.

id probably go for 100mm PIR if it was me, held in place with pins hammered into the joists. PIR is roughly double the effectiveness of wool so 100mm PIR is equivalent to 200mm of wool, seems to make sense.

"Pet shown relaxing in a building site" would be worth a drink.

would have loved to have done something like that, but im not sure i could trust anyone else to cut this stuff as accurately as id want it, christ it was hard enough doing the quality control on myself. Id imagine if i let my builders do it it would have been lashed in wonky as ya like.

it looked a treat by the end, but a lot of "borrowing money from friends". Cant say id be comfortable with that, basically means they want to live beyond their means.

i used/am using blades like MR10 above in a Dewalt jigsaw, only the Festool versions. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Jigsaw-Blade-155-204345/dp/B07M6PKLCS Ive been cutting PIR for around 3 months now on and off and these blades have helped significantly when compared to a normal hand saw. Minimal dust, smooth cut. What i did was grind one of the blades down so its just longer than 50mm for when i was cutting my 50mm stuff as it stops the wobble of the blade in free air underneath the PIR. Cutting 120mm with them is a challenge but still nicer than with my hardpoint saw as it doesnt produce the insulation balls/waste, its just tricky to keep it in a straight line on such a flexible blade but manageable. Any time ive had to use the hardpoint saw, say for example a long angled cut that the jigsaw couldnt manage, i sand off the PIR with a block of 60grit and it smooths out nice, makes it a lot easier when installing overhead as there is no crap falling in your eyes. Still sharp enough after a few thousand cuts, was a good purchase.