Super_Paulie

yeah but will it go the same way? pink in a jiffy.

New valve would be crazy, been in like 2 months and never used! Might have to just accept the pink. Hopefully I can sleep at night workout thinking about it...

So you're saying I need to clear coat my tap handle? Wonder if I can get a UV resistant heat shrink.

But it did though I bet...? My Nova used to come up like a fire engine after a polish. Got a blue car now, so like my blue handle its loving the sun.

My Nova 1.3SR had the same problem but nothing an afternoon with the t-cut wouldn't sort out.

Major issue here guys. My outside taps, the red handle has faded but the blue has not. Once I'd got over the absolute shock and horror it got me thinking of any solution to this. Trivial I know, but an issue I'd like to look into so the taps don't look tired even though they are new. As these are marketed as outside taps it seems a bit weak to fade in a few months.

heres where i find out the floor levels are wildly different from old to new.

in an effort to avoid congestion from the under stairs cupboard where my manifold is, i am looking at the option of passing a single loop flow and return through the original cavity wall from the extension. If i dont then i have all my loops going through a very small area at the start which seems troublesome. Whats the best way to achieve this, core drill out at the correct level to pass conduit through the cavity? remove a brick each side, run conduit and then make good with mortar? Its a joisted floor each side with the pipes running above the PIR and biscuit mix over. Any thoughts welcome.

i wonder how this panned out...? was an interesting, if not slightly saddening read.

Good shout. So just close off all the loops and open the drain? Seems a better option all round.

Just whack one on the flow? That's as low as you're gonna get above floor level.

Hello ladies and gents. I'm going to add butterflies as marked in the picture but having a mental block as it's been a long week. Should I add a drain to both the flow and return as well or just the flow or not at all? Cheers!

Cheers gents. I've done the job with a terracotta tee. For some reason I couldn't get that in black unless I ordered from the inter'web which was unusual and double the cost+postage. A branch with purely 110mm and not with the 40mm side branches seems to be difficult to get from the sheds. Anyways it's done with the terracotta, thanks for your input gentlemen.

Will the building inspector get upset if I use terracotta branches in my internal soil stack? It'll be boxed in obviously.

Replaced the wiring centre, noise gone. @Admin please feel free to remove this post!

Bench testing my Heatmiser wiring centre today. It all functions as it should (pump replaced by light bulb for the test) but the I guess it's a delay relay of some sort makes a bit of a racket while it's waiting for the valve to open before it calls for heat. Doesn't seem as noisy in the video mind... Anyone else with a Heatmiser experience this, is this how it's meant to be? Didn't think it would need to make any noise at all so I'm suspicious. 1c9fd06a-23a4-4f6d-84bf-cf2eb02e6edf.mp4

Cheers gents, I've finished the job. Haven't flipped the switch yet as it's beer o'clock now I think, just want to say cheers for the info. One thing that I just thought though, I cable tied the 5 core flexes together along the run just to keep them neat while I was doing the job. Is that frowned upon or am I just being overly cautious with that?

Ok just to confirm before I crack on. I'm ok to run 5 core flex from the wiring centre/spur downstairs up to the loft to power the boiler? Roughly 15m. It just seems I'm getting really contrasting information from 'the web about running such long flex. Cheers

I was going to do something very similar. Our bathroom is tiny, i guess floor space once the bog, bath etc is taken away is around 2m x 2m. I was going to just extend the the return from the towel rad to i guess loop round the area before it heads out the door. Might be ill-advised but it seemed that a return over a small area wouldnt cause any real issues. I was also debating doing the same in the porch (1.8x1.8) as i dont want to run my UFH through there but simply to keep the air dry due to wet coats etc being in there. Happy to be told otherwise!

Fair enough, I've got a shed ton of 50mm left anyways. Thanks my good man, might even have heating in time for winter, who knows!

Illbruck 330 ordered and i have all the insulation in and to be foamed. Filled the "batten void" with 50mm PIR with the 120mm resting on the battens. Would i be right in thinking that i should create an insulated barrier from where the pug/biscuit mix goes to the end of the joist run to avoid it losing heat into the wall? like this crudely drawn image (without biscuit mix shown)

Interesting, id read otherwise. I'll do more research on that. If I have the boiler 3a and the wiring centre 5a from the same FCU, how would I protect both from a single fuse?

I was under the impression flex is frowned upon over distance? We are looking at 15m maybe from boiler to wiring centre. So ignore the fact I wouldn't get DHW if the wiring centre needs isolating for whatever reason? Probably a situation that would never occur to be fair.

Cheers Tony. But that would mean I have no "local" isolation at the boiler? Guess it doesn't really matter but I was going to go from solid core to flex at loft level so may as well put the "local" isolation in instead of just a junction box. If I don't have isolation down before the wiring centre but after the FCU then I'd have no means to knock that off and keep the combi providing DHW, but how often that situation will come up is anyone's guess. Boiler on its own circuit could happen, the wiring centre is almost at the consumer unit anyways.

i agree, was just drawing that up. Hopefully if we are off the mark someone will advise but im hoping to test this out at some point this afternoon.