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Everything posted by Super_Paulie
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i found a bomb shelter 2inches below the grass in my garden, but it was basically a bit of corrugated steel. Wouldn't fancy my chances against the Luftwaffe but i guess it made people feel safer. Think id take your neighbours bunker over that any day.
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out of interest how did this pan out, did you get it resolved?
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thats really helpful, thanks S2. I'll have a look at this on my break, see if i can cross reference against my bills. This whole thing seems Ludacris really, this didnt happen when i was with the multiple defunct companies in years gone by!
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so what are we saying, that there is a mismatch in my metric/imperial or that i am hemorrhaging gas?
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it says m3 after the reading so i guess metric?
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yeah ive started recording actual figures as of yesterday. Dont blame you, especially British Gas seem overly crappy. 100kwh of heating for a few hours would be pretty toasty like.
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It's crazy complex, I wonder why British Gas don't offer up a calculator... Actually I do know, they are a bunch of *****. I found this website which seems to work based on what S2D2 offered up. How my smart meter says a few quid but the official app and website suggest a fortune I have no idea.
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Significantly less than what the app suggested the other day at 50Kwh! I'll record it at the meter the next few days and make a spreadsheet.
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How on earth would I have used 25kw in 30 minutes as in the picture earlier. I mean I've got the heating on right now at 60°. Sack it all off for a log burner I say, at least I'll know for sure how many logs I've got.
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That's exactly what I'm seeing, yeah. I'll get onto the chat with them tomorrow as something of obviously very wrong with that, too couldn't use that much kWh with my setup, the boiler couldn't do it. Technology sucks.
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Got home and checked my smart meter. The 21st was Saturday and the recorded usage was pennies, like £2.80. Honestly man, why is everything just a chew on. I hope the smart meter is correct rather than my British gas account...
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that is entirely possible, cant recall if it was plugged in actually as i just finished installing the rad tails. I cant see any grey bars though...? if you mean the like dashes, i guess that means no usage. It was barely on, so no idea how it was running at 50kwh, thats impossible.
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heating controls are Nest thermostats. Only need to be on for an hour to go from 17 to 20 and thats where it pretty much stays. Yeah it kidna doesnt make sense does it... I'll check the meters when i get in and see the numbers.
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hi gents. Just got my radiator system up and running for the first time. 7 Rads, 2 bed semi, just me and the missus living there. Boiler is a new last year Baxi 830 combi, 24w i believe. Set at 60 for the heating system. Looking at my "Energy usage" its excessive, 105kwh a day and the rads were only on for a couple of hours. Looking at one of the spikes it was nearly 25kwh for a half an hour, that doesnt even seem possible? Am i misreading this or is this just normal these days? house has all new insulation, and it does hold the heat nice so i found that the heating on for an hour was enough for the evening pretty much. But 100kw?! doesnt seem possible. I expected this to be at least half that.
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its all done and passed bar final sign off on fittings. BC didnt require insulated plasterboard nor did my architect specify it, its just my own preference really. Plans are pre-jun22
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its a 2m horizontal cast iron "style" rad in raw metal with triple columns, much like in the attached image. The part of the house its going in is the extension which is still at bare block and is insulated correctly to the best of my knowledge. At this stage im looking to keep the place as insulated as possible and i want to bring the rad circuit online now its getting colder and then i can work on my UFH over the winter, thats all ready to go bar laying the pipes. The rads are more to be eye candy as the UFH will do the bulk of the work. It seemed a no-brainer to use insulated board behind the rad as id only lose 40mm and the added bonus that it would push out the rad so the tails do not foul on the joist that is close to the wall. The wall is external and north facing, its always baltic in that part of the house even in summer.
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hi guys. Any benefit of using an insulated board internally on my insulated cavity wall, mainly on the wall with a radiator? (brick-cavity-block) it would be a dot and dabbed (or foamed) insulated board. I was hoping to reduce the amount of heat lost through the wall behind the radiator but don't know if that is worth my while. I am due to mount the radiator asap and if its worth me doing the insulated board then i'll stand the rad off by the 40mm or whatever when im positioning my tails. So to speak... Cheers guys.
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I take mine off as soon as the cooldown procedure is finished on the Ultimaker but it's basically as soon as you can touch the bed without losing finger prints... Sometimes they just pop off, most times I use a Stanley blade as a lever and once the vacuum is broken it lifts away.
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ABS won't stick to glass unless you heat the plate and add an agent of some sort. Hairspray, glue or a slurry made from abs and acetone all work. The easiest and best way for me is to float on kapton and then squeegee out the water. Then heat it until it's dry and then wipe it over with acetone after every job. Sticks no problem but the tape will lift if you run large flat jobs and let it cool while still attached.
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I pretty much exclusively use ABS for it's resistance to heat and it's sanding and polishing potential. You can sand it and then polish it up with just friction, I've got a carpet tile attached to a board that I use to generate the friction. You can't do that with pla, you'd be sick of your life. Horses for courses really, depends on what you're doing, it's all experience. With ABS i print on kapton tape on the glass plate on the Ultimaker, it's the best surface I've tried and I've tried them all. For pla I use a glue stick or salted water. Don't use pla often as it's sh1te.
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Yeah we had one, a Z-Corp. Garbage to be fair. The resin printer is the highest resolution but the Ultimaker is the work horse.
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resin needs to be stored in a UV resistant container as the UV cures it. I leave the resin the tank in the machine for months at a time but the other stuff i keep in their own tank containers in a cupboard. If its filament you mean then it needs to be stored dry as they absorb moisture from the air. Especially PLA that is like a sponge and goes super brittle if you leave it out. I store filament in vacuum bags with those silica packs in.
