Super_Paulie

Not unless I do the entire ground floor... it might be a possibility depending on my ceiling height, could very well end up lowering it to meet the main steel which we are leaving exposed. Could happen, but not sure.

It's about as continuous as I can get it! I can get the pir in the small roof space over the cavity of the main wall. I guess the only place I can't is where the header joist is up against the steel beam. I'm open to any suggestions with this, although I'm hoping to do the job today so any great ideas would be welcome.

Looking at it now I'm at home, I could potentially put 120mm in the 70mm joists and just have the PIR heigher then the joist top. I'd just angle the pir on the end to cover the cavity. Then I can lie as much wool as I can over the top of that? Can also add 50mm directly to the block wall above the joist.

i just got my crayons out. So basically, can i go with option B is I suppose what im asking, i just dont know if 2 airtight layers with a void inbetween is such a good idea or not. Obviously the more insulation the better, think BC wanted 300mm if going the wool only route.

morning fella. No, this roof is totally separate to the porch and canopy section. It has the original brick wall at the house side and is block on the new gable side. Im well versed with FM330 and its a hell of a product, i used that when foaming the joins on my rear extension before cutting back and taping. So this roof is separate to all the others. It has no vents but i have used wedges so i can see daylight between the membrane and the eaves tray every foot along its length, so it has "air in". Would insulating this in this way be acceptable, im not so sure. PIR foamed and taped in the rafters, fibreglass in the void the PIR foamed and taped into the joists? I worry that any moisture could get trapped in this "inbetween section" or am i worrying about nothing? As the ceiling level will be flush with the rest of the house i need this section to be well insulated as its within the envelope. Cheers fella.

Yeah it's tricky. I was thinking, 50mm between the rafters (red), made airtight. 75mm between the joists, airtight again (green). Then just fill the void "triangle" in-between with as much wool as I can (blue). Any issues with that?

Job done, thanks for the input ✌️

Hi guys. The pitched roof of my extension at the front of the property needs insulation. What's the preferred buildup, see attached. The ceiling/plasterboard is to go flat straight across so that leaves the void above. Would it be best to use 50mm PIR between the rafters (leaving room for ventilation), wool in the void, then PIR between the joists to finish or is this overkill? Or PIR between the joists with 200mm wool layed over the top for sound/heat retention? Any thoughts would be most welcome.

yeah sorry the photo doesnt show that it is hipped very clearly. So a few soffit vents on the left and right of the porch will surrfice? Wont be too difficult id imagine, cheers!

sorry, yeah the canopy above the bay window. This is currently "open" underneath as i havent added any soffits yet. There is an osb divider that separates the porch and the bay window roofs, so i could open that up so the airflow can pass all the way through as you say extreme L to extreme R. As it stands there are no vents in the porch roof and it is a separate entity to the bay roof. As there are no vents on the porch side, i could add some quite easily. Im not sure what the builder intended by not putting vents in he did on the rear pitched roof. I would obviously have had to add a ceiling into the porch so what he intended i have no idea.

Quick question for the masses. My porch has a vaulted roof with joists so I can have a flat ceiling in there. It's brick with an insulated cavity. I've installed 75mm PIR between the joists and made it air tight, more to stop drafts than anything but I have found the roof void above the PIR is not vented. Should I add a vent into the soffit or not bother due to the small footprint, it's like 1.8m x 1.8m. I could also potentially "knock through" the dividing OSB board into the canopy which is open to the elements. Cheers gents

plenty of ways i guess, im just worried about the unsupported parts of the plasterboard as i assume they will be bouncy.

or are we saying go this way? from what i can see @Buzz went like this, sorry for the name drop Buzz.

the rafters are, but if i am to create a service void with horizontal counter battens then i'll always have floating ends, so to speak. When boarding out stud work ive always made sure every side of the board is supported, so, im not sure if im getting the wrong end of the stick here as unless i create a frame for the boards with the battens then i'll always have floating ends. See attached shoddy picture. Would i just add shorter battens at the ends of the boards so i dont have any floating ends?

reponse from Pegler. Hi Paul The PB50 bib tap is not designed for outdoor use, unfortunately it does not fair well when exposed to the elements. This particular model is chrome plated so, If used outdoors, it would need to be housed to prevent rusting and further discoloration due to exposure . Kind regards Toni Why the hell would i have a bib hose tap inside my house? 😆 A tap that bleaches and rusts sounds like a hell of a product.

Happy Friday gents and ladies. This week i will be mostly insulating my vaulted ceiling/lean to in the extension. BC been out, all happy so far and ive over-specced it against my planning approval. So ive got 125mm rafters. 50mm ventilation void, going to go with 75mm in-between the rafters and 75mm under. Then batten for service void and then finally plasterboard. My question is in regards to the batten. I cant find sod all online so i guess its common sense, but I was going to run the battens horizontal, so perpendicular to the rafters. All well and good but i assume i also need to run vertical battens to accommodate the ends of the boards so how do i pass my services though if im effectively making a frame under the plasterboard? Beer o'clock.

I assume any replacement from pegler would also fade.

yeah but will it go the same way? pink in a jiffy.

New valve would be crazy, been in like 2 months and never used! Might have to just accept the pink. Hopefully I can sleep at night workout thinking about it...

So you're saying I need to clear coat my tap handle? Wonder if I can get a UV resistant heat shrink.

But it did though I bet...? My Nova used to come up like a fire engine after a polish. Got a blue car now, so like my blue handle its loving the sun.

My Nova 1.3SR had the same problem but nothing an afternoon with the t-cut wouldn't sort out.

Major issue here guys. My outside taps, the red handle has faded but the blue has not. Once I'd got over the absolute shock and horror it got me thinking of any solution to this. Trivial I know, but an issue I'd like to look into so the taps don't look tired even though they are new. As these are marketed as outside taps it seems a bit weak to fade in a few months.

heres where i find out the floor levels are wildly different from old to new.

in an effort to avoid congestion from the under stairs cupboard where my manifold is, i am looking at the option of passing a single loop flow and return through the original cavity wall from the extension. If i dont then i have all my loops going through a very small area at the start which seems troublesome. Whats the best way to achieve this, core drill out at the correct level to pass conduit through the cavity? remove a brick each side, run conduit and then make good with mortar? Its a joisted floor each side with the pipes running above the PIR and biscuit mix over. Any thoughts welcome.