Super_Paulie

Behind the walls or inside the cavity?

straight up (or down) from the edge/corner within 150mm zone and then horizontal to the switch. Then repointed. ?

Could be a fake wall I guess. Or could have ran the cable along the mortar lines and then repointed? It would still be within wiring zones by the looks of it. I went the conduit route myself.

i leave it maybe 4 or 5 minutes before pushing to wall. Needs bracing until it goes off, i tend it leave it braced for as long as possible, 30 minutes or more, sometimes with a mechanical fix as well. With Insta i found that it went solid a lot quicker as well. I mean im as happy as i can be in that the boards are still attached to the walls... Id use Insta over the Soudabond if it wasnt so pricey.

I used Soudabond for my whole place. Only difference from Insta seems to be it takes longer to "skin over". I used Insta when I couldn't get my usual stuff and was caught out as I left it 5 minutes like the souda and it had almost gone off.

i hope its not against the law to keep the window film on, all my upstairs UPVC still has it on 2 years later... 🤣

I just made them myself, I work in the design field so have access to laser cutters and what not.

i had about 10mm under my beam to the lower end of the joist, so i just packed the beam with wool and then PIR and aerogel underneath it and flew standard plasterboard over it, BC was happy with it. If i didnt have that depth id probably look at either doubling up the plasterboard on the ceiling (not a bad idea) but leave it short at the beam for insulation or batten out the entire ceiling to get that depth. That beam was stone cold before i did the above so quite the thermal bridge. On my upright encased in the cavity i sealed it up around the edges with airtight foam and tape and then glued aerogel to it. When i foamed my boards on i had enough of a void behind them to just fly over the aergel. I havent tried my thermal camera on it but i'll have a look later i think but so far no issues.

build a sled if you have loads to do? a sled and a hardpoint saw is what i used.

🤴 Thank you my liege.

I guess why use the plywood at all? Just to smooth over any wonkyness in the chipboard?

i wont argue with that experience, thanks Nick. Just so im on the same page, i always thought the ply screwed over the subfloor was so that if it needs to come up in the future then you dont have to destroy the subfloor. Surely gluing the ply to the subfloor will make that impossible? I assume im just overthinking this.

That's what I did in my porch, just forced the chipboard down onto the fibre-bouncy spreaders 👍 Thanks Nick, appreciate the info. Any reason for 6mm ply as opposed to a cement based board? I'm thinking for heat transfer.

Evenin. I'm onto planning my bathroom and looking for advice and general opinions, which will be ongoing... Searching buildhub via Google seems to have gone by the wayside and I can't seem to word what I want in the site search so here I am. I'm going to extend my UFH to the small bathroom (3x3m) and I'm struggling to find the build-up that would be best. For info the bathroom doesn't really need it, putting it in just to take the edge off a cold floor when barefoot. My initial plan is PIR between joists, pipes clipped to it (or spreaders). The original floorboards need to go, so this is where I'm struggling for info. Replace subfloor with chipboard/ply? Then if I want to tile, do I need to go over this with say 6mm cement board? Insulated tile backer is adding insulation that I don't need. I assume I don't tile directly into the subfloor. Cheers friends.

i used Soudal and can recommend. I also nicked from Egger from work and wasnt as impressed with that one.

i have carpet in 1 room and LVT in the other. The carpeted room has the underlay that is designed for UFH (ThermalStream) but just the standard carpet that was there before i installed the system, i'll change for low tog once the building work is done as its the main route from front to back of the house. I can tell you that the carpeted room struggles in comparison. The back room is almost always between 21 and 23 but the carpeted room struggles to get beyond 21 no matter how long you run it. If that sort of temp is your bag then no worries, but i like it warm. Its not bad, its just no where near as effective as the room with LVT. My manifold mixer is 43.

mine was the inside face, flush with the block. I attached a 10mm aerogel with spray adhesive and them foamed the edges to the block. Finally covered in plasterboard when i did the full wall, avoiding a join at that point. Seems to have worked, no noticeable cold spots here and previously the steel was absolutely freezing.

interested in the body dryer. Any good?

did the very same. Cut them off and replaced with the in-line Wago light boxes for each spot.

Looks like a finished refurb in an Albanian prison, fair play to ya.

I have a goalpost type setup with the post flush to the block. I attached a sheet of aerogel to that and foamed the edges before plasterboarding, attached with foam rather than traditional adhesive. The upright leads to a comically oversized beam that has been left exposed over 8m. I can tell you, the beam is cool but never cold and it seemingly has very little effect on the rooms temperature which I have at 23° daytime and 21 evening. Aerogel might seem expensive but could be an option?

i got my velux integras from Roof Giant. Seemed to be the best price after many hours trawling the interweb.

yep, works flawlessly with my Google Home.

a few clout nails underneath will stop that happening. Maybe Gapotape? big money for the quantity involved though. Whole thing seems like a big challenge whatever way you look at it.

rockwool and netting would be better than nowt for sure. To echo what people have said here though, this job will be horrendous. Its awful cutting and dropping it in from above, never mind lying on your back in a freezing crawl space. Id say this will be the worst job youve ever done, especially in the quantity you speak of. Make sure the vents are clear so you get air flow under your floor. If like my place about 90% of them were blocked or collapsed, i simply cut mine out and replaced with high flow versions which bridged the cavity above and went straight under the floor. You can get nice looking ones to suit the style of the house, metal grid face etc. Curveball, you could always deliberately cut some PIR short and foam them in all round? Have someone measure underneath and another person above ground cutting and passing it through.