Super_Paulie

seems like chinese crap, but i guess a solution exists. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ALUSSO-LIGHTING-Downlights-Spotlights-Compatible/dp/B0CLV1VQBW

great shout, i'll try that out tonight.

afternoon everyone. My vented pitched roof on the rear extension was built to the architects plan, and its pretty standard stuff for a cold roof, see the attached drawing. Im at the plasterboarding stage now and the missus has decided she now wants downlights/spots instead of the original plan of surface mounted directional lights. Obviously i dont have the space to sink these lights now, so im looking at my best options. Would using an insulated plasterboard rather than the single 12mm layer work to give me the required depth? Im not sure on the insulated board, service void, then more insulation buildup. Seems thats not right. To add a spanner to the mixer she wants them to be RGB or similar to change the colours of that whole section of the house. Id imagine a GU10 bulb would have a minimum required depth of around 100mm which seems impossible to accommodate currently. Im aware on the warm roof/cold roof etc etc, but it is what it is and thats what I have. So any suggestions that may help id really appreciate it. As I am over the regs with my 150mm insulation i could in theory create a 20mm void in that second layer if required and still be within tolerance of the required 130mm. Would a divorce be the easiest option?

i had the same situation in my front room with the OG airbrick, and i did like you say and chamfered the end of the insulation. I sealed between the wall and insulation and then sealed between the wall and caberdeck afterwards. I used Illbruck airtight foam which is a quality product, ive used loads in my place to make the floor draft free as i run UFH as well. Illbruck FM330

my builder wanted to fit keylite but i overruled it as i wanted a Velux so i could control it via voice command. Probably cost a load more for that feature, but its the only way i control them now so in my eyes worth it.

Good evening friends. Looking for a bit of advice here. Still ongoing home extension, basically focusing on downstairs. However when the beam was put in the house moved/settled onto it and the room above (bathroom) is tiled floor to ceiling, the grout was coming out like gunfire. The bathroom will be getting totally pulled out, however I have other priorities at the moment downstairs. I am getting a small water leak through the blown tiles in the shower area, am I better off going round with the silicone gun along every grout line or just pulling the whole lot out, tile backer, then whack the old tiles back on? It'll only be temporary, so what would be my best option to not wreck the plasterboard ceiling below? The tiles are on an old wet plastered brick wall, 1930s.

i had this situation in my place. I worked a full length of the room to find out the best way to start it off so that as many of my short ends landed on a joist as possible. Where i couldnt do it i just had flying ends but once they were glued and screwed and joined to the surrounding boards they are rock solid. Like Mark says above, where they ended against a wall i ran additional joist sections in there any way i could to keep it as close to the edge as possible to reduce any bounce.

I'm yet to board as I'm playing catch-up and doing the whole house boarding at the same time. Both my layers of PIR are foamed and taped so I'm not envisaging any problems between the layers.

My builder used closers but in most places where I could I took them away and closed them off with PIR foamed into the cavity. Seems way more rigid rather than a rattley bit of plastic.

Cherry picker, scaffold, MEWP, all no problem. As soon as I get over 6ft on a ladder I'm no good 😆. Might just be my B&Q special ladder...

like what Conor says, i left the fence and built it with a 250mm gap to my brickwork. Worked out well as i able to run a waste down there as well. Have these plans been passed? it looks like its massively different to the neighboring houses and a bit of a monstrosity to be perfectly honest. I wouldnt be happy if i was either neighbor.

thinking back, i had a few things that i would "personally not do" if i was in the trade. Apart from smoking in the house, i recall one morning coming down and they were raiding my log store to fire up my chimenea. Yes it was really cold out there, but surely they should have asked. If they did ask then id have said just crack on lads no worries, but you cant just presume. Also they used parts of an old fence i had stashed behind the shed to put in the roof of my porch and they stole my builders bucket i bought to actually move my logs around 😂

i guess you could insulate the pipes? I have something similar to your diagram where i have a run of a few meters in dry mix. I just let them run and then sleeved them at the point they passed through the cavity wall. Just a flow and return with no real loop makes no difference to the floor temp as far as i can tell.

i really enjoyed after i had the knock through but didnt have my full length doors fitted yet, all the builders sat smoking in the old kitchen sunbathing. And the subsequent me having to remove 5000 tab ends and fag packets from the cavity walls.

i thought it was industry standard for me to spend all my wages on plasterboard while the other half spends hers on Taylor Swift stuff?

Inside is still at block stage and the switch and wires to it are way lower than the outside light so it'll be fine 👍

i dont really want to risk blowing the brick face so i'll have to from outside in and take my chances!

i dont have any photos at the moment as im at work but here is a sketch. Top down, if that make sense, the cable will be the usual in a 20mm pipe sloping away from the wall. Its not a huge distance to drill at the angle and it would be tricky to relocate the light switch at this time as the feed and 2-ways from it are all in place. Not impossible, just tricky. SO i was hoping that drilling at the angle might work, but im aware i might be on dodgy ground which im trying to avoid.

Yeah I mean I could add a blanked off socket but I'd rather not as it would be below unit level for aesthetics so a bit of a folly. I can drill at an angle to get it in zone, just wasn't sure if that's a no-no.

I can't seem to find any examples of this which probably answers my question. I need to install my patio lights but I want to bring the feed/switch from inside to out. I can't get that in zone unless I drill at an angle from the outside, I've got to move roughly 100mm sideways from the outside skin through the cavity to emerge inside in zone. Is this an acceptable thing to do? Id rather not bring the feed externally in conduit if I can help it.

this is the reason i made my downstairs 2 zone in the end, the north facing room is always significantly colder than my south facing with essentially a full glass wall. So i what i end up with is a room that is 23 on one side and a room that is 18 on the other. Its easily sorted by just leaving the adjoining door open between the rooms and it evens out pretty quickly, but quite often when that door is closed the loop for the north facing room will fire up and circulate and everythings rosy. Works for me but obviously everyones situation will be different. Ive got rads upstairs and down on TRVs as well but i am yet to use them, seems like wall furniture if nothing else.

I've used 8:1 dry mix between my joists and after 2 weeks the humidity tells me it's dry. If you floated at the end it'll go solid but if you just screed it and leave it then it'll be crumbly. Either way was good for me as I'm just using it for mass, but by floating it meant it didn't just disintegrate while I was walking around it over the following few weeks. I learned this half way through my application of it. Basically mine is like a cheesecake with a crust on top.

in my own situation I have a crappy old lath and plaster ceiling above with no joists to go into as they run in the same direction as my stud. What i did was concrete screw timber directly to the brick wall behind and then frame out from there. Double the timber but it makes it sturdy enough with a 100mm void for services and sound deadening. Not sure if the original poster is in the same situation.

Further to this, why the hell are the white swept bends bigger than the black? I've already cut the pipe now white I waited for them to come into store, proper seen me off 😤

i used these shims, pretty good as they could hang onto the screw while you drive it home. https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-200-pcs/80408