Super_Paulie

i wonder how this panned out...? was an interesting, if not slightly saddening read.

Good shout. So just close off all the loops and open the drain? Seems a better option all round.

Just whack one on the flow? That's as low as you're gonna get above floor level.

Hello ladies and gents. I'm going to add butterflies as marked in the picture but having a mental block as it's been a long week. Should I add a drain to both the flow and return as well or just the flow or not at all? Cheers!

Cheers gents. I've done the job with a terracotta tee. For some reason I couldn't get that in black unless I ordered from the inter'web which was unusual and double the cost+postage. A branch with purely 110mm and not with the 40mm side branches seems to be difficult to get from the sheds. Anyways it's done with the terracotta, thanks for your input gentlemen.

Will the building inspector get upset if I use terracotta branches in my internal soil stack? It'll be boxed in obviously.

Replaced the wiring centre, noise gone. @Admin please feel free to remove this post!

Bench testing my Heatmiser wiring centre today. It all functions as it should (pump replaced by light bulb for the test) but the I guess it's a delay relay of some sort makes a bit of a racket while it's waiting for the valve to open before it calls for heat. Doesn't seem as noisy in the video mind... Anyone else with a Heatmiser experience this, is this how it's meant to be? Didn't think it would need to make any noise at all so I'm suspicious. 1c9fd06a-23a4-4f6d-84bf-cf2eb02e6edf.mp4

Cheers gents, I've finished the job. Haven't flipped the switch yet as it's beer o'clock now I think, just want to say cheers for the info. One thing that I just thought though, I cable tied the 5 core flexes together along the run just to keep them neat while I was doing the job. Is that frowned upon or am I just being overly cautious with that?

Ok just to confirm before I crack on. I'm ok to run 5 core flex from the wiring centre/spur downstairs up to the loft to power the boiler? Roughly 15m. It just seems I'm getting really contrasting information from 'the web about running such long flex. Cheers

I was going to do something very similar. Our bathroom is tiny, i guess floor space once the bog, bath etc is taken away is around 2m x 2m. I was going to just extend the the return from the towel rad to i guess loop round the area before it heads out the door. Might be ill-advised but it seemed that a return over a small area wouldnt cause any real issues. I was also debating doing the same in the porch (1.8x1.8) as i dont want to run my UFH through there but simply to keep the air dry due to wet coats etc being in there. Happy to be told otherwise!

Fair enough, I've got a shed ton of 50mm left anyways. Thanks my good man, might even have heating in time for winter, who knows!

Illbruck 330 ordered and i have all the insulation in and to be foamed. Filled the "batten void" with 50mm PIR with the 120mm resting on the battens. Would i be right in thinking that i should create an insulated barrier from where the pug/biscuit mix goes to the end of the joist run to avoid it losing heat into the wall? like this crudely drawn image (without biscuit mix shown)

Interesting, id read otherwise. I'll do more research on that. If I have the boiler 3a and the wiring centre 5a from the same FCU, how would I protect both from a single fuse?

I was under the impression flex is frowned upon over distance? We are looking at 15m maybe from boiler to wiring centre. So ignore the fact I wouldn't get DHW if the wiring centre needs isolating for whatever reason? Probably a situation that would never occur to be fair.

Cheers Tony. But that would mean I have no "local" isolation at the boiler? Guess it doesn't really matter but I was going to go from solid core to flex at loft level so may as well put the "local" isolation in instead of just a junction box. If I don't have isolation down before the wiring centre but after the FCU then I'd have no means to knock that off and keep the combi providing DHW, but how often that situation will come up is anyone's guess. Boiler on its own circuit could happen, the wiring centre is almost at the consumer unit anyways.

i agree, was just drawing that up. Hopefully if we are off the mark someone will advise but im hoping to test this out at some point this afternoon.

so i guess.... thats means i wouldnt need to run the LS though the isolator at all as it is never live.

its a Baxi 830. To keep it simple im using the "240v control connection" instead of anything OpenTherm as i dont think i need that. Attached picture i found online but mine is the same. The Heatmiser LS (live supply) and the LR (live return) are volt free, so connecting those in place of this yellow loop will call for heat, i believe.

Cheers Dave. So like this? (earths omitted for clarity) I assume i wouldnt need to isolate the live return to the Heatmiser as it the live supply is clipped at the 3 pole. Quick couple of points if i may. Without a second isolator down at the wiring centre i wouldnt be able to isolate it without killing the juice to the boiler, so if i had an issue down there it would also cut off my potential for hot water only. Should i add in that secondary isolator or am i just being overly cautious in regards to future issues? The heatmiser needs fused down to 5a and the boiler 3a, what fuse should i be looking at in the FCU? Cheers fella. Im the type of bloke who needs to draw it all out in advance. Makes for slow work but thats all my brain will accept.

If my Baxi needs protecting with a 3a and my Heatmiser a 5a, how can I run these from the same spurred FCU? Davinci level drawing attached.

Apologies, phone keeps autocorrecting to FSU for reasons unknown.

I've already got 2 FCUs from the ring final, one at each location. But it dawned on me that when you knock the boiler off it should be knocking the wiring centre/gubbins off at the same time. Or not?

I'm sure you knowledgeable lot can answer this in a jiffy, I can't seem to find the answer online. Boiler in the loft, wiring centre (and UFH gubbins) on the ground floor. Should both of these be powered from the same FSU? Just means they are a long way away from each other in terms of local isolation...

Cheers gents, I went ahead and did it. If nothing else it tidied it all up and will protect the foam from getting banged up 👍