Super_Paulie

Manual bed leveling is a chew on but not that bad. You get what you pay for really, my Ultimaker does auto bed leveling so it's a thing of the past for me. Pretty sure you can get an auto leveling add on for the cheap printers but no idea how good they are. 3D printers are a faff no matter what I'm afraid. You can do a duplicate job that worked perfectly and then the next time it just ends up a right clip. It's all about dialling in the settings to get the results you want but it's all experience really.

As long as you can keep your enclosure up to around 50° you'll be laughin. Can't say I've used ASA as we have no need but as long as the transition temperature is within your criteria it'll work. If it's open canopy then you'll get warping which is no good for rigid members.

I'm actually a 3D technician... I have an Ultimaker S5 and a Form 3 for my resin stuff. If you're going to do stuff that's in the sun then PLA will warp to sh!t as it's glass transition temperature is really low. For example a pla cup holder in your car will not be holding the cup after a summers day... you'd need to use ABS which would be nigh on impossible without an enclosure if you need to get it accurate. You could build a box over it, I did that previously with an old Ultimaker and it worked ok. Software wise I use Rhino and Fusion. Learning curve might be tough if you haven't used them before. SketchUp does work as you can export to .stl but you'll find anything round comes out basically a series of flat sides joined together.

ive got one of these and its been great. Its self powered so i guess an amp built in. Its big money in comparison to others though and im debating just going for a few smaller Google speakers maybe in my new extension as they seem pretty good for minimal outlay. But the Lithe has been rock solid for years and a good purchase.

as long as you dont cover the joists at the bottom then thats not a problem, they are exposed to the air underneath to take away moisture. Ive retrofitted my entire ground floor with PIR and its not without its challenges but its nothing a tight fitting cut wont sort with some air-tight foam and aluminum tape. 100mm wool or 100mm PIR, its a no brainer in my eyes as its double the effectiveness.

id probably go for 100mm PIR if it was me, held in place with pins hammered into the joists. PIR is roughly double the effectiveness of wool so 100mm PIR is equivalent to 200mm of wool, seems to make sense.

"Pet shown relaxing in a building site" would be worth a drink.

would have loved to have done something like that, but im not sure i could trust anyone else to cut this stuff as accurately as id want it, christ it was hard enough doing the quality control on myself. Id imagine if i let my builders do it it would have been lashed in wonky as ya like.

it looked a treat by the end, but a lot of "borrowing money from friends". Cant say id be comfortable with that, basically means they want to live beyond their means.

i used/am using blades like MR10 above in a Dewalt jigsaw, only the Festool versions. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Festool-Jigsaw-Blade-155-204345/dp/B07M6PKLCS Ive been cutting PIR for around 3 months now on and off and these blades have helped significantly when compared to a normal hand saw. Minimal dust, smooth cut. What i did was grind one of the blades down so its just longer than 50mm for when i was cutting my 50mm stuff as it stops the wobble of the blade in free air underneath the PIR. Cutting 120mm with them is a challenge but still nicer than with my hardpoint saw as it doesnt produce the insulation balls/waste, its just tricky to keep it in a straight line on such a flexible blade but manageable. Any time ive had to use the hardpoint saw, say for example a long angled cut that the jigsaw couldnt manage, i sand off the PIR with a block of 60grit and it smooths out nice, makes it a lot easier when installing overhead as there is no crap falling in your eyes. Still sharp enough after a few thousand cuts, was a good purchase.

I'll see how I feel about it, 125mm, 140mm something like that. No harm in going longer if I can get em.

correct. Yeah i'll crack on tonight, insulation washers and 100mm screws. Its just to hold it until my battens are up, at which point i'll fix the battens in place with 125mm screws.

i suppose i would have said "75mm PIR over rafters, 75mm in rafters" in that order if i was going for a hybrid/incorrect setup, thought the order made it clear. Anyways, lets move on, its a debate i didnt intend, i was just after opinions on PIR orientation as per the title. Cheers guys

Yep, marked them all up on the wall so I'm good to go ✌️

Will do. I've already done my between rafter work, foamed and taped. Last thing to do is the overboard/underboard and that's all my insulation finished. BC described it as overboard and suggested horizontal, however I guess it's underboard and vertical now...!

Might be the wrong word to use but thought the above made it obvious. I have my answer anyways, cheers.

My question was in regards to the orientation of the second pir layer, horizontal or vertical. There is no insulation above the air gap. Tiles-batten-membrane-gap-pir-pir-batten-board. Pretty standard install. I guess it makes me feel good. At least as good as a roof can 🤷🏼‍♂️. Don't think I've wasted any money so far.

It's all in hand Gus, it's too late for the dramatic! Cold roof, breathable membrane, 50mm gap, 75mm PIR in rafters, 75mm over rafters, service void with batten, board.

My rear pitched roof (cold) has 75mm PIR between the rafters and I'm going with 75mm overboard. It works out a lot easier (due to velux positions amongst other things) if I overboard with the boards long edge on the vertical, which is against what I'm seeing in most instances where the second layer of PIR is 90° to the rafters. I assume it's ok to do this and BC won't get upset? I'll be battening afterwards for my service gap.

looks ok to my non-drainage eyes. But if it stinks still then yeah its not ideal. But thats a £500 job tops surely.

at first glance i thought not terrible, not great. But on a closer inspection, its god awful. Id be tearing that down if it was me im afraid. How come the courses line up one side but not the other, makes no sense. Time for a little shrub in a pot at that point to hide the join i think.

I haven't fired it all up yet as I'm still at the insulation stage in my roof. I assume it'll be ok but it was a steep learning curve and @Nickfromwales and @JohnMo helped loads amongst other forum members, all very helpful. I didn't even know what a buffer tank was until they helped me out, now it's obvious it would have been required in the way I want to do things. I've tested the electronics and valves and its all good to go in the near future, but it was stressful and confusing at first. I'll draw it all out at some point for future reference but attached is how it's all controlled. Zone valves and buffer are at the upstairs/loft.

It was an annoying situation all round and if I could go back I'd just get one from a store that I could return. Hasn't leaked though, but looks a bit silly with a tap stuck on top.

To close this, I went 120mm PIR between the joists, 120mm PIR on top of that, both angled to provide the ventilation void and span the cavity. Then I threw 100mm of wool over the top just because I had it. So 240mm PIR and 100mm wool, which is surely excessive. Got a cold bridge on the underside of the joists and the beam but I'll look at that when it comes to ceiling time.

Yeah, potentially. I was planning on not doing that so that the heat from downstairs will transfer upwards, however I'm not at that stage yet and it could well be the way to go. I guess I'll add in 120mm PIR between the extension roof joists, put in 200mm wool over the top of that, foam and tape and move on. Seems about all I can do here.