MikeSharp01

Oh yes loads on here - big arguments, was fun to watch, the two sides coming at from opposite ends of two different sticks! Looking here will give you the chance to see if you can hold two ideas (the ideas of heating and feeling warm) in your head at once and still function (F. Scott Fitzgerald's test of a first-rate intelligence) - it went way beyond me!

Cook out to help out - why not? Get the food out of their fridges and cook it on your prems, or invite the residents for breakfast at your place - best good Samaritan tradition.

Slightly! The +ve and -ve air tests are quite tame (60 Pascals (pa) either way) by comparison to a 90mph gale hitting the window. I think - my first coffee is only just settling in, that a back of fag packet tells me that a 90mph gust hitting a 6m2 window has a dynamic pressure of around 900 pa or 20 Ibs/ft2 or around 500Kg pushing on the window.

Disk - whats a disk?

Yes I thought that and that would overcome the issue from @saveasteading and save me a bunch of slates. I can also screw the bottom under eaves slates to the battens to prevent rattling.

its 150mm off the ground at the bottom.

Sounds like one of the strings is not working as you are getting about 50% of the expected output and your system is in two strings?

I am moving to put the outer cladding, fibre cement slates, on our build and have been playing with the set out and when looking at it I cannot see a reason for two layers of under eaves slates. The eaves are of course effectively the bottom of the wall in vertical slating. I will be kicking the bottom out with a batten and I can rest the rivet on that and between the single under eaves slates. What am I missing?

Did the designer not work duct routes out at the design stage? If not then looks like you may need to work through the 'boxing in' thread. That said your idea has merit but you might want to think about lining the sections including the inner of the plasterboard with ali foil and provide collection points for any liquid that does gather at the bottom of verticals.

Don't worry another one will be along shortly. There is plenty of evidence that good ventilation aids concentration so it might be a good idea, but as you say 2 years too late. (see link above)

They tend to use open windows to achieve it but the people density is much higher. @Ajn Looks to be doing even better that those levels. Great link

As Mike says this is a bit high we target 660 as a safe level in our lecture rooms if teaching students face to face. You can get the definitive answer (with associated caveats) here: https://www.hse.gov.uk/coronavirus/equipment-and-machinery/air-conditioning-and-ventilation/identifying-poorly-ventilated-areas.htm#:~:text=A consistent CO2 value below,talking

We did our garden room this way and it looks good, to be fair we had a pro help us out with the base advice, and some training on applying the skim which was: Make sure the boards are dead flat, if you cannot achieve dead flat then you will need a plaster finish. We spent hours with packers and a long straight edge to bring out the frame (We were lucky that in our build up the service void is battened out from the airtight layer) Support all the joints so you need to frame each board so they cannot move relative to one another but while keeping faith with 1 above. Practice hard and lots, pulling up the fill. Get a a good set of tools and professional sanding machine with extractor. We did that and the cost was about a grand including the FESTOOL extractor (Second hand) and sander. When we get to the house I will be thinking hard as one wall is a clear 10m run of what I want to be a flat wall I do no want to see ripples in that as I dimly recall the great Jeremy Harris telling us how much he hated seeing the ripples in his dry lined wall when the sun shone across it at some times of day.

We discussed this here:

Thanks. I will work the levels based on 28 and that will include between 3 and 8 mm of self levelling (3mm is just enough to cover the survey buttons in the slab and deal with a couple of low spots) and allow 15mm tile (just) I can self level once the windows / doors are in to fine tune against the, as yet, unknown tile thickness, I have not been told what we are having! Does that make sense? So the adhesive does not compress a lot, a 10mm notch results in a 10mm thick adhesive layer including back butter?

You could look at something like this: https://hspfireprotection.co.uk/fire-door-upgrades/1698-envirograf-card-faced-intumescent-material-to-upgrade-doors-to-fire-rated-doors.html

Welcome to the forum - just load the questions and fire away.

Is that what they call an oxymoron.

Not sure anybody is listening are they - perhaps see it as V2G = V2L when the load looks / feels like the grid I guess. Just skimming the above tells me, I may have got the wrong end of the stick, that provided your car has V2G capability and you can fool it into thinking it is being asked to feed to the grid it will deliver to your load instead. However it sounds like the 'car system' will limit what it can deliver based upon what the manufacturer is prepared to allow and you will need to be able to provide the protocol standard communications to make it happen. @SuperPav's post above makes it clear I think and identifies the challenges.

Sorry to poke an old thread. So without the mat what would you tell clients? We have yet to choose our tiles we can self level up, we have 7mm to do already, if needs be. However we need to order the external doors and sliders and to meet part M I need to land within the 15mm allowance. Is a 10mm tile actually going to sit on 10mm of adhesive or does that get compressed somewhat when laid and if so by how much typically?

Welcome to THE forum for people like us! Not come across the 13m rule before ours is a two story build on the plot of a bungalow right next to a bungalow so we are for sure not 3m away let alone 13.

Dragons everywhere in this conundrum. Although the immediate financials are compelling I guess we (the collective planetary population) need to see this as a full cost exercise across the whole systems lifecycle - including recycling / re-circling. @SteamyTea can you plot draw off from the tank on the chart so as to see how that affects the temperatures - or is the above just a no draw off day! I also guess we need to see the whole dwelling energy demand in the round. We know that @TerryEuses good old Willis heaters for his UFH, we will probably also go the Sunamp-Willis way at the outset but have put the pipework and other infrastructure in for an ASHP in as well, and that an ASHP might well be able to do the UFH and the DHW so would pay back in both areas, while also costing in both. I naturally recall your work on looking at Willis vs ASHP. I also feel that any PV must also be brought into the equation and, looking forward - but not much, the massive amount of electric storage we will have in our cars. I appreciate that governments, the grid people and the generators are looking longingly at these as buffers for the grid but they would also work as buffers for us - assuming we are allowed to use them as such. Imagine being able to charge your car at 9.66p (as you say other higher rates can confidently and imminently be expected) and then put it back into the house during the normal rate time even allowing for the losses both ways. A copper tank, excluding its insulation - which if not sprayed onto the tank can house the next cylinder, is almost fully recyclable at very low environmental cost. Is this the same / different / better / worse for the Sunamp, the ASHP, the UVC and their associated sub assemblies I wonder? Systems thinking 101 tells us that everything is connected to everything else and also, among many other things, that investment challenges change. I think that means that this whole field is best by causal and influence like connections which increase complexity, and hence optionality / decision risk, but also that self builders tend to be in a position to invest for the long term and are not sitting on a raft of investment others made previously as far as the house is concerned anyway.

Yes not even sure you can get it anymore in the UK. You could substitute something like Southern Yellow Pine - pretty knot free and great when just oiled - but not for painting. You can see the sort of range of most possible solid woods and board sizes here: https://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/products/solid-timber/sawn-boards

If Painting I would go for a decent plywood and master the edge cutting with a new blade on your circular saw then either use wood filler, pine edge piece or iron on edge strip to finish it.

Looks to be missing a digit, so proof of work not accepted - recon you may have abused a nonce - did you increment your nonce correctly. Means that @pocster is probably looking at a different picture - so no wonder he does lot like it.