MikeSharp01

Welcome to THE forum for people like us!

Thats a checklist item right there. We have loads of power failures here, not so much in the new place, every one causes problems. Wonder what else would / should be on the don't buy unless it can meet these challenges list?

9-10Kw will probably be enough and I suspect the electrician will have had this sort of size in mind.

If you do the kiosk idea to the left of tge drive you can take all ducts to the plant room and then over to the garage. We split the power in the kiosk and have isolation switches so we can isolate either building, we have a garden room not a garage but it has a 9kw shower and that works fine at 40m from the kiosk we did both runs in 10mm. We also ran ducts for water, gas (and installed track pipe which we wont use now) and comms. So our fibre comms comes to the kiosk and we have a 1Gb switch of our own which then takes the feeds to the two buildings and allows me to connect front cameras and control external lighting from there also.

Makes sense but is an interesting form of words that made me think about the future. I guess most families will need more that one car charger (it) - for their second car or for overnight guests or any guests who won't get home on what they have left in the 'Tank' (battery) so it will become 'they' and then you are into wondering about how to lay them out. We had planned one on our build but now I am wondering how to install two of them - maybe the second on a post the other side of the parking bay. Then I am wondering if my 100A (1ph) supply will be enough!

Yes - a very interesting DB, found our new property on it and noticed that the plot is shown on the OS map in its new form, first I have seen it, Google maps still shows the old.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Looks like an interesting project - if you will pardon the pun - keep digging

This insurance stuff feels broadly correct in that you have handed the build to them and until it is signed off they are responsible for the building site - which is not a dwelling. You might look at ending the contract early so you get the house back but you may need to pay for that and you would then need some sort of insurance yourself. You may be able to live in a caravan on the site however as you could agree to partition that section off.

Do you know why it is so low? Is it the pump not running hard enough or the pipework being so tortuous (perhaps small bores) that the flow rate cannot be achieved.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Looks like an interesting challenge. I can't see what that beam is doing at that end as the downward forces are all in the middle and are taken by the wall. If you were worried you could step down on each side and join across the floor in steel to allow access and maintain any compression / tension loads but where they would come from I am not clear unless the ends of the beam you are proposing to cut are solidly fixed, not just resting in pockets or on corbels, to the walls both sides to stop any bulging.

I guess the emphasis is on 'Most'

Hi - And welcome to the forum, I am sure someone who knows more than I will be along shortly. Power outages can do damage to stuff as well as resetting it so it may be that you stat is damaged, if you wind the stat right down does the ASHP stop working? At any rate probably best to provide some details of the setup. Does it also do Domestic Hot Water (DHW) or just heating? Do you have a schematic of your system you can share with us?

Not sure you even have enough depth here to accommodate open curtains if you intend any. To my mind the setback from the window wall and height of any furniture are the critical factors.

Sadly often not, standard shared ownership arrangements usually hand the full repairing rights to the occupier, the part owner. It seems very unfair, as the part owner is paying rent as well as their mortgage, so there should be a law against it. Their argument is that it is like any home ownership in the sense that the bank take no responsibility for the upkeep. I only discovered this because a friend of mine's daughter was in the same situation and the housing association, very politely told them of their obligations. My friend did some further investigating and found this was the normal stance.

My plan is to have it so the switches work the lights, as you via the Solid State Relays, directly when I (or somebody) close these terminals. There are some situations where some hard wired logic is required EG for double and triple controlled lighting circuits but this can be done straightforwardly and thereby allow the switch out the control system in the middle.

Some of us have / can but where does this leave the next occupier of the home, or your family if you are no longer about, for whatever reason (EG Divorce / death). It seems to me however that if you document your work carefully a competent person should be able to look after it / find someone who can - it is the way we are going although we will put conventional wiring in back to the control panel which a competent sparks could re-wire conventionally if needed. There may even be gold in them there Hills!

Yes but by April it might be 30p! - starts to make a bit more sense. Our Washing machine runs 4 loads a week so that is £1:20 PW or £62 PA sounds like not much but anything cut by 20% is a 20% saving, its just a scale thing in the end. If we all used 20% less the demand would decrease and so would the price - economics 101, although 102, or some such, says if you are a monopoly supplier then you don't have to obey 101!

The big challenge with wind is the site. If you don't have an open enough site (360 degree uninterrupted wind) the output is massively reduced. This is quite a useful document: https://www.cse.org.uk/downloads/reports-and-publications/community-energy/planning/neighbourhood-planning-wind-guidance.pdf and this http://www.windandsun.co.uk/information/wind-power/wind-power-siting-and-planning.aspx#.Yd6KdGg6phE

Perhaps 2 layers of tin foil and 4 layers of bubble wrap then When I used this many years ago it had multiple foil layers separated by what looked like fleece (thinsulate)

Not sure they can. Looks like the holes don't line up so would need a carefully constructed solvent weld assembly to achieve same shape and not sure if connection in wall is accessible.

You should be fine, its right up against the bowl so easy to clear if it does block but also these are designed to go in these situations - it looks like your incoming pipe does not line up with the frame center so unless you get a multiangle join, which have their own problems or create a offset joiner in solvent weld a flexi pipe is all you have really.

Welcome to the forum. Interesting perspective. We have three poles and 5 stay wires on our land here and 1 pole and 1 stay on our project site in Whitstable.

Nope, provided you provision for it, you need to keep plaster board above the screed line and you are happy that the screeding costs will rise. as its a more complex job.

Can you brace the front end to the house, photo makes it look possible, this would give considerable stability. The stiffness is OK at the back but the front will be somewhat wobbly. You can probably sort this with diagonal bracing the rear wall down the side walls (high up at rear to low down on side walls), unless you have thick boarding 8x4 sheets as side cladding, and then relying on the stiffness of the roof and side walls to stiffen the front but I would not rely on it. Naturally the door can help but this will depend on door type and locking mechanism. Do you need the full height all the way down, 1.98m will get a discovery in but you won't get out with any ease / if at all? If not you can consider diagonal bracing inside.