MikeSharp01

With that build up you perhaps don't need it because you will have ventilation above the insulation under the breather membrane / slates and the plaster will breath either way but the PIR won't so it will be air tight. One assumes that whoever purchases these houses will have their legal team go through the hygrodynamic analysis to be sure there is no dew point risk - their mortgage companies surveyor (if they need one) will. On another note can I see past the frame to the outside on the mid left of the frame or is it a trick of the light?

Sounds interesting on a number of fronts. 1. Controlling a 13Amp socket from a light switch feels like (is) the wrong thing to do - the power handling requirements don't match. 2. Who, in the middle of the night, wants to wake up, fumble for their glasses, find their phone, load the app, locate the lamp (from the 54 others in the house) and turn on the wifi lamp, only to discover that the cloud server running the WiFi lamp from lord knows where is off line for maintenance, OR alternatively, shout 'Alexa turn my bedside lamp on please' thus waking the partner / kids / dog and it won't work anyway because Alexa cannot distinguish your voice from anybody else's without a lot of work and then you have to remember to always sleep on the same side of the bed! 3. There was a third but I lost my thread sorting the second. A simple switch, or double - one by the bed and the other at the door, feeding the 5A socket sounds so much simpler. Naturally you can, alternatively, feed each switch back to your homes CNS (Central Nervous System) and let the Rasberry Pi / Loxone / ???? send the signal to the SSR (Solid State Relay) then wire it back to the socket - many options then become available, none of which you will ever use although maybe, in the future, when you have moved out a Gentleman or Lady of the night might find the whole control possibilities thing amusing either for them or their client(s). Anyway - keep it stupidly simple (KISS - remember. AND yes I know that is not the right way to define KISS but implied insults, on a day like today, seem so unnecessary.)

To be fair hygrodynamics is something of a mystery to most people - including me and some construction professors of my acquaintance! About the only working out on our build I didn't feel comfortable doing was the WuFi analysis, partly because I could not lay my hands on the full version of the software, but mainly because interpretation of the output is not remotely simple unless you have a lot of experience. One is left falling back on the old adages of good ventilation (if it does condense it can dry out) either outwards or inwards and if the latter might be useful then the correct membrane / structure is needed - hence perhaps the move from polythene to Pro Clima Intello Plus or similar and of course plaster breaths both ways I guess.

That is what I expected but thought I would check. Many thanks.

So should work the same for a cr4edit card order - you didn't have to request the refund it just happens?

Did Latzel do all the VAT calcs - IE drop EU VAT and we pay the VAT when it gets here? Sounds like they did. I need 2 x 150m2 AND 1 x 75m2 Pro Clima + tapes.

Interesting, just about to order ours - looks like I need to do some more research before I do!

How will you achieve air tightness - plaster?

Right to light is complex but a few things are clear enough. The people only gain a right to light after a number of years (20) getting light into their house through apertures (windows but could be other) in their house, its the people not the house that gets the right to light. If you restrict the light they can seek compensation or ask you to remove the obstruction and even if you get planning they can still seek right to light compensation - planning cannot override the right to light. If they have not lived there for 20 years you don't have a problem with right to light. The planning rules also apply as @Mr Punterpoints out.

217 Pages though! From a quick scan a good read but does not answer @ToughButterCup 's question. Essentially the mix has changed and it would be good to know if that has had a positive impact or negative impact. I guess looking back at the history of generation output would tell you all you wanted to know. Looks like the peak was 2004 and trending down from there. Source: Wikipedia - Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0, OPL 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=114303524

Oh yes loads on here - big arguments, was fun to watch, the two sides coming at from opposite ends of two different sticks! Looking here will give you the chance to see if you can hold two ideas (the ideas of heating and feeling warm) in your head at once and still function (F. Scott Fitzgerald's test of a first-rate intelligence) - it went way beyond me!

Cook out to help out - why not? Get the food out of their fridges and cook it on your prems, or invite the residents for breakfast at your place - best good Samaritan tradition.

Slightly! The +ve and -ve air tests are quite tame (60 Pascals (pa) either way) by comparison to a 90mph gale hitting the window. I think - my first coffee is only just settling in, that a back of fag packet tells me that a 90mph gust hitting a 6m2 window has a dynamic pressure of around 900 pa or 20 Ibs/ft2 or around 500Kg pushing on the window.

Disk - whats a disk?

Yes I thought that and that would overcome the issue from @saveasteading and save me a bunch of slates. I can also screw the bottom under eaves slates to the battens to prevent rattling.

its 150mm off the ground at the bottom.

Sounds like one of the strings is not working as you are getting about 50% of the expected output and your system is in two strings?

I am moving to put the outer cladding, fibre cement slates, on our build and have been playing with the set out and when looking at it I cannot see a reason for two layers of under eaves slates. The eaves are of course effectively the bottom of the wall in vertical slating. I will be kicking the bottom out with a batten and I can rest the rivet on that and between the single under eaves slates. What am I missing?

Did the designer not work duct routes out at the design stage? If not then looks like you may need to work through the 'boxing in' thread. That said your idea has merit but you might want to think about lining the sections including the inner of the plasterboard with ali foil and provide collection points for any liquid that does gather at the bottom of verticals.

Don't worry another one will be along shortly. There is plenty of evidence that good ventilation aids concentration so it might be a good idea, but as you say 2 years too late. (see link above)

They tend to use open windows to achieve it but the people density is much higher. @Ajn Looks to be doing even better that those levels. Great link

As Mike says this is a bit high we target 660 as a safe level in our lecture rooms if teaching students face to face. You can get the definitive answer (with associated caveats) here: https://www.hse.gov.uk/coronavirus/equipment-and-machinery/air-conditioning-and-ventilation/identifying-poorly-ventilated-areas.htm#:~:text=A consistent CO2 value below,talking

We did our garden room this way and it looks good, to be fair we had a pro help us out with the base advice, and some training on applying the skim which was: Make sure the boards are dead flat, if you cannot achieve dead flat then you will need a plaster finish. We spent hours with packers and a long straight edge to bring out the frame (We were lucky that in our build up the service void is battened out from the airtight layer) Support all the joints so you need to frame each board so they cannot move relative to one another but while keeping faith with 1 above. Practice hard and lots, pulling up the fill. Get a a good set of tools and professional sanding machine with extractor. We did that and the cost was about a grand including the FESTOOL extractor (Second hand) and sander. When we get to the house I will be thinking hard as one wall is a clear 10m run of what I want to be a flat wall I do no want to see ripples in that as I dimly recall the great Jeremy Harris telling us how much he hated seeing the ripples in his dry lined wall when the sun shone across it at some times of day.

We discussed this here:

Thanks. I will work the levels based on 28 and that will include between 3 and 8 mm of self levelling (3mm is just enough to cover the survey buttons in the slab and deal with a couple of low spots) and allow 15mm tile (just) I can self level once the windows / doors are in to fine tune against the, as yet, unknown tile thickness, I have not been told what we are having! Does that make sense? So the adhesive does not compress a lot, a 10mm notch results in a 10mm thick adhesive layer including back butter?