MikeSharp01

Do you know why it is so low? Is it the pump not running hard enough or the pipework being so tortuous (perhaps small bores) that the flow rate cannot be achieved.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Looks like an interesting challenge. I can't see what that beam is doing at that end as the downward forces are all in the middle and are taken by the wall. If you were worried you could step down on each side and join across the floor in steel to allow access and maintain any compression / tension loads but where they would come from I am not clear unless the ends of the beam you are proposing to cut are solidly fixed, not just resting in pockets or on corbels, to the walls both sides to stop any bulging.

I guess the emphasis is on 'Most'

Hi - And welcome to the forum, I am sure someone who knows more than I will be along shortly. Power outages can do damage to stuff as well as resetting it so it may be that you stat is damaged, if you wind the stat right down does the ASHP stop working? At any rate probably best to provide some details of the setup. Does it also do Domestic Hot Water (DHW) or just heating? Do you have a schematic of your system you can share with us?

Not sure you even have enough depth here to accommodate open curtains if you intend any. To my mind the setback from the window wall and height of any furniture are the critical factors.

Sadly often not, standard shared ownership arrangements usually hand the full repairing rights to the occupier, the part owner. It seems very unfair, as the part owner is paying rent as well as their mortgage, so there should be a law against it. Their argument is that it is like any home ownership in the sense that the bank take no responsibility for the upkeep. I only discovered this because a friend of mine's daughter was in the same situation and the housing association, very politely told them of their obligations. My friend did some further investigating and found this was the normal stance.

My plan is to have it so the switches work the lights, as you via the Solid State Relays, directly when I (or somebody) close these terminals. There are some situations where some hard wired logic is required EG for double and triple controlled lighting circuits but this can be done straightforwardly and thereby allow the switch out the control system in the middle.

Some of us have / can but where does this leave the next occupier of the home, or your family if you are no longer about, for whatever reason (EG Divorce / death). It seems to me however that if you document your work carefully a competent person should be able to look after it / find someone who can - it is the way we are going although we will put conventional wiring in back to the control panel which a competent sparks could re-wire conventionally if needed. There may even be gold in them there Hills!

Yes but by April it might be 30p! - starts to make a bit more sense. Our Washing machine runs 4 loads a week so that is £1:20 PW or £62 PA sounds like not much but anything cut by 20% is a 20% saving, its just a scale thing in the end. If we all used 20% less the demand would decrease and so would the price - economics 101, although 102, or some such, says if you are a monopoly supplier then you don't have to obey 101!

The big challenge with wind is the site. If you don't have an open enough site (360 degree uninterrupted wind) the output is massively reduced. This is quite a useful document: https://www.cse.org.uk/downloads/reports-and-publications/community-energy/planning/neighbourhood-planning-wind-guidance.pdf and this http://www.windandsun.co.uk/information/wind-power/wind-power-siting-and-planning.aspx#.Yd6KdGg6phE

Perhaps 2 layers of tin foil and 4 layers of bubble wrap then When I used this many years ago it had multiple foil layers separated by what looked like fleece (thinsulate)

Not sure they can. Looks like the holes don't line up so would need a carefully constructed solvent weld assembly to achieve same shape and not sure if connection in wall is accessible.

You should be fine, its right up against the bowl so easy to clear if it does block but also these are designed to go in these situations - it looks like your incoming pipe does not line up with the frame center so unless you get a multiangle join, which have their own problems or create a offset joiner in solvent weld a flexi pipe is all you have really.

Welcome to the forum. Interesting perspective. We have three poles and 5 stay wires on our land here and 1 pole and 1 stay on our project site in Whitstable.

Nope, provided you provision for it, you need to keep plaster board above the screed line and you are happy that the screeding costs will rise. as its a more complex job.

Can you brace the front end to the house, photo makes it look possible, this would give considerable stability. The stiffness is OK at the back but the front will be somewhat wobbly. You can probably sort this with diagonal bracing the rear wall down the side walls (high up at rear to low down on side walls), unless you have thick boarding 8x4 sheets as side cladding, and then relying on the stiffness of the roof and side walls to stiffen the front but I would not rely on it. Naturally the door can help but this will depend on door type and locking mechanism. Do you need the full height all the way down, 1.98m will get a discovery in but you won't get out with any ease / if at all? If not you can consider diagonal bracing inside.

Welcome to the forum. You perhaps need to look at local custom and practice, has anybody done the swap, garage for dwelling elsewhere - I think this should be possible. Round here, Sevenoaks, I am confident it would be because if they are counting it as part of house then logically it must be equivalent. Which taken to extremes would mean you could knock down both and build new against the same area. The only thing that worries / interests me is the 117% would they accept only to 100% overall or could you get up to, for instance, 110%? Again what is the local plan saying, not sure these apply any more anyway, and what has been the practice. Are there any places in the area where a complete 'knock down and start again' has been given permission for more area than the sum of the previous parts? Finally have a look at what is coming down the track in terms of planning changes that may allow it in the medium term.

Welcome to the forum. If the ceiling is a fire barrier you can bring them down through intumescent cable transits EG these: https://www.beele.com/application/cable-transits/ but this is probably overkill for most domestic applications unless there are special circumstances.

We purchased a load of agricultural black plastic and sheeted it up tp keep it dry.

Need to be sure that none of your equipment needs InfraRed (IR) remote control as IR struggles to get through much other than air.

Our curtain does not go to the ceiling or the floor - never noticed any uneven temperature, but hey its your shower so you must do what you think is right for you and yours.

Cripes that's an expensive loo roll holder! We use a standard shower curtain across the shower portion of our wet room, the one here is less than 2m square and the loo roll is out in the open but never gets wet. You could buy around 10 show curtains for the cost of that holder, you can mix up the aesthetic with them as well and it allows a wheel chair user to get in there without the problems of maneuvering round a glass screen. The new place will take the same basic approach.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Your right it is daunting but you can start from the outside in! As in, think about the sort if location you are looking for and then think generally about the style of house you want that might suit the location. This latter choice can be worked out before the location but it seems to me that the house should follow the place. That does not stop you thinking about things like wether it will be a passive house and for location how far you want to be from civilisation / broadband / water / electricity / .... Great to dream though.

If they said equivalent then it should be equivalent, get your money back and find one that meets your (the UK standard) spec.

Many thanks for that - I found that out of the box I could get them connected but those I had tried would not work - so now I have the on-off-on-off-on-off-on sequence I can probably get them back to slow flashing as out of the box.