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Rishard

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  1. Now this might put the cat amongst the pigeons, And I will state I am no expert nor have I mvhr installed, yet it is certainly on my plans for our near passive build house. I heard a podcast discussing just this point. To mvhr or not? The conversation was between the host and a ventilation supplier/manufacturer who also produces and supplies mvhr systems. He referred to a study on 270 European passive houses, half with mvhr and half with on demand ventilation. The study looked at the indoor air quality, heating load on heating system and primary energy to run the ventilation system. They drew on indoor air quality. Mvhr was top for heating load on heating system with a 6% saving on energy. However when they looked at energy usage to power the ventilation systems mvhr required 5x more primary energy. As I said I’m no expert and I imagine you guys will have some lived experience of running mvhr and be able to talk of its benefits. Would be interesting to hear views on this. I will link the podcast with the time segment for your own listening. I’m sure it’s been discussed plenty but I found it surprising. I also haven’t done any greater reading on the subject. https://www.buildingsustainabilitypodcast.com/ventilation-and-timber-futurebuild-2022-vince-house-matt-stevenson-bs077/ report discussion @ 9:00
  2. This could be used for retro fit possibly. https://www.illbruck.com/en_GB/product/tp601-compriband-e/
  3. I’ve used compriband tape for a lot of green oak frames. It’s great at adjusting to the movement of the oak. Once you have opened the roll you can cut off what you need and tape the roll together to stop it expanding. Keep it flat and stored well as once it gets uncoiled it’s worthless. They come in varying widths and expansion thickness to suit all sorts of applications. I used to apply it to the frame and compress the glass on to it. On the outside I would stick it to the cover board and compress it onto the glass. You have a few minutes to get it stuck on before it starts expanding. Easy enough when your prepared. Haven’t tried retro fitting into gaps but don’t see it being an issue.
  4. See the weather bar on the french door cils. These doors are 6 years old.
  5. Oak doesn’t ‘need’ finishing. It’s often an aesthetic choice. The lovely golden colour of milled oak soon goes when exposed to the elements. If you oil it, generally it stays golden for 5 or more years but you set yourself up for a life time of maintenance to try keep that golden colour. Osmo is good for this but I have found it is useless on any surface which isn’t vertical. Horizontal weather bars seem to flake, peel and start the greying process.
  6. All of the above is good advice on fixings, especially if your lats are wet as they are likely to dry out and lose that initial bite they have on a screw . I typically start by finding the furthest out bulge. Once this is established I set up a string line horizontally from the furthest points. Practically impossible on your own as you need a person at each end of the string and someone eye’ing the string so it is just off touching the lat at the bulge point. You now have a straight line to pack and fix your lats to. I use plastic shims as they don’t compress. From here you can plumb up your vertical lats and pack at the fixing points. Sadly in your case it might mean starting again, or finding the bulge point and packing everything else. 2mm tolerance would be fine for most claddings but with a nice long straight edge and plenty of time you could get it perfect! Hope this makes sense.
  7. Thanks @SteamyTea is there a feature somewhere to do that?
  8. I’ve only really used Siberian larch and never Scottish. Mainly due to the supplier I use but they do produce good quality profiles. Duffields timber in North Yorkshire if you wanted to check them out. They might not come in the cheapest but always good to compare costs. I recently re-clad a clients gable with thermowood ( radiata pine) I’ve done plenty of jobs with it now. What I will say is it is super stable… I did some vertical shadow gap cladding for a shed 3 years ago with some square cut butt joints meeting on the counter batons and the stuff hasn’t moved 1mm. It works really well for contemporary looking finishes I would say. When I used it with a more traditional feather edge profile, I was a bit shocked at the grain or more the knot quality of the wood. It’s not particularly attractive when looking at such wide boards I don’t think. One good thing is it stays where you fix it. The initial colour is quite soft unlike fresh larch but un-treated they all end up that lovely silver colour. Not sure why I can’t turn these pictures the right way round. But this is 3 years apart. Thermowood. I have tons of pictures of western red cedar jobs, thermowood and larch if I can find a way to turn them the right way round on here?
  9. I would say the same for a wood floor or a carpet… Don’t drop wine on it, it’ll stain. I imagine it probably does stain the concrete over years of family abuse but that’s an aesthetic choice surely? Personally if I had an industrial looking floor like the one in the video, if it had a few dings and scratches in it, all the better. If I wanted a mirror flat finish, I would either have to pay a specialist or choose not to do it.
  10. I’ve just listened to this podcast which touches on their experience with polished concrete in a passive build. The end results look great. It isn’t ufheated but I think if your willing to except some defects then it could be done as a cost effective use of the structural slab as finnished floor. He did spend 90 hours grinding it which would have cost a fortune for a specialist company to do but in the spirit of self build I would say don’t rule it out, just lower your expectations… If it’s that bad, allow for a thin engineered flooring to cover it up. https://www.houseplanninghelp.com/hph310-important-takeaways-from-an-exemplar-straw-panel-passivhaus/
  11. From my short experience with this, our written description of current flora and fauna on site plus our plans to introduce specific varieties of plants for nesting birds and insects and wasn’t well received. They wanted to know a number. I’ve sent the completed matrix which puts a huge percentage gain on the site. It doesn’t go far in representing the original layman’s description of habitats we aim to increase. It looks and acts more like an agricultural claim form for subsidies. arbtech will do your survey, starting at £496. As you would expect. My planning officer admits he doesn’t know what this should look like. I guess a headed letter with 15 pages of descriptions and small graphs would no doubt tick their box.
  12. Just to note, the concrete drive is as existing and is to be removed as part of the build. Hence the large gains.
  13. I am using the small sites matrix yes. Have you filled it out? Where there is less to fill out than the larger site matrix it is still rather vague in terms of describing what I have. Like I said earlier, with my concrete drive I was able to increase diversity 400% with hedges and grass. Sub headings consist of, lakes, costal lagoons, rocky shore, coastal salt marsh, intertidal sediment, heathland and shrub, cropland. They all have slightly better options once you narrow them down but doesn’t go very close to describing the rose bush and rotten pear tree I have. I’m very much in favour of improving the diversity of the plot.
  14. Your right, the section stated as ‘off site post development’ basically falls into bio-diversity offsetting…
  15. When I use ‘the matrix’ which natural England have clearly spent a lot of time developing… I got a 400% net gain turning my concrete drive with no vegetation into shrubs and wildflower grass totalling 0.002 hectares. Slightly confused with the hectare metric used for a site which is not even half a hectare! Que the helpful ecologist surveyor who wants £400 + vat for a 1 hour report, no doubt.
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