MikeSharp01

Don't worry another one will be along shortly. There is plenty of evidence that good ventilation aids concentration so it might be a good idea, but as you say 2 years too late. (see link above)

They tend to use open windows to achieve it but the people density is much higher. @Ajn Looks to be doing even better that those levels. Great link

As Mike says this is a bit high we target 660 as a safe level in our lecture rooms if teaching students face to face. You can get the definitive answer (with associated caveats) here: https://www.hse.gov.uk/coronavirus/equipment-and-machinery/air-conditioning-and-ventilation/identifying-poorly-ventilated-areas.htm#:~:text=A consistent CO2 value below,talking

We did our garden room this way and it looks good, to be fair we had a pro help us out with the base advice, and some training on applying the skim which was: Make sure the boards are dead flat, if you cannot achieve dead flat then you will need a plaster finish. We spent hours with packers and a long straight edge to bring out the frame (We were lucky that in our build up the service void is battened out from the airtight layer) Support all the joints so you need to frame each board so they cannot move relative to one another but while keeping faith with 1 above. Practice hard and lots, pulling up the fill. Get a a good set of tools and professional sanding machine with extractor. We did that and the cost was about a grand including the FESTOOL extractor (Second hand) and sander. When we get to the house I will be thinking hard as one wall is a clear 10m run of what I want to be a flat wall I do no want to see ripples in that as I dimly recall the great Jeremy Harris telling us how much he hated seeing the ripples in his dry lined wall when the sun shone across it at some times of day.

We discussed this here:

Thanks. I will work the levels based on 28 and that will include between 3 and 8 mm of self levelling (3mm is just enough to cover the survey buttons in the slab and deal with a couple of low spots) and allow 15mm tile (just) I can self level once the windows / doors are in to fine tune against the, as yet, unknown tile thickness, I have not been told what we are having! Does that make sense? So the adhesive does not compress a lot, a 10mm notch results in a 10mm thick adhesive layer including back butter?

You could look at something like this: https://hspfireprotection.co.uk/fire-door-upgrades/1698-envirograf-card-faced-intumescent-material-to-upgrade-doors-to-fire-rated-doors.html

Welcome to the forum - just load the questions and fire away.

Is that what they call an oxymoron.

Not sure anybody is listening are they - perhaps see it as V2G = V2L when the load looks / feels like the grid I guess. Just skimming the above tells me, I may have got the wrong end of the stick, that provided your car has V2G capability and you can fool it into thinking it is being asked to feed to the grid it will deliver to your load instead. However it sounds like the 'car system' will limit what it can deliver based upon what the manufacturer is prepared to allow and you will need to be able to provide the protocol standard communications to make it happen. @SuperPav's post above makes it clear I think and identifies the challenges.

Sorry to poke an old thread. So without the mat what would you tell clients? We have yet to choose our tiles we can self level up, we have 7mm to do already, if needs be. However we need to order the external doors and sliders and to meet part M I need to land within the 15mm allowance. Is a 10mm tile actually going to sit on 10mm of adhesive or does that get compressed somewhat when laid and if so by how much typically?

Welcome to THE forum for people like us! Not come across the 13m rule before ours is a two story build on the plot of a bungalow right next to a bungalow so we are for sure not 3m away let alone 13.

Dragons everywhere in this conundrum. Although the immediate financials are compelling I guess we (the collective planetary population) need to see this as a full cost exercise across the whole systems lifecycle - including recycling / re-circling. @SteamyTea can you plot draw off from the tank on the chart so as to see how that affects the temperatures - or is the above just a no draw off day! I also guess we need to see the whole dwelling energy demand in the round. We know that @TerryEuses good old Willis heaters for his UFH, we will probably also go the Sunamp-Willis way at the outset but have put the pipework and other infrastructure in for an ASHP in as well, and that an ASHP might well be able to do the UFH and the DHW so would pay back in both areas, while also costing in both. I naturally recall your work on looking at Willis vs ASHP. I also feel that any PV must also be brought into the equation and, looking forward - but not much, the massive amount of electric storage we will have in our cars. I appreciate that governments, the grid people and the generators are looking longingly at these as buffers for the grid but they would also work as buffers for us - assuming we are allowed to use them as such. Imagine being able to charge your car at 9.66p (as you say other higher rates can confidently and imminently be expected) and then put it back into the house during the normal rate time even allowing for the losses both ways. A copper tank, excluding its insulation - which if not sprayed onto the tank can house the next cylinder, is almost fully recyclable at very low environmental cost. Is this the same / different / better / worse for the Sunamp, the ASHP, the UVC and their associated sub assemblies I wonder? Systems thinking 101 tells us that everything is connected to everything else and also, among many other things, that investment challenges change. I think that means that this whole field is best by causal and influence like connections which increase complexity, and hence optionality / decision risk, but also that self builders tend to be in a position to invest for the long term and are not sitting on a raft of investment others made previously as far as the house is concerned anyway.

Yes not even sure you can get it anymore in the UK. You could substitute something like Southern Yellow Pine - pretty knot free and great when just oiled - but not for painting. You can see the sort of range of most possible solid woods and board sizes here: https://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/products/solid-timber/sawn-boards

If Painting I would go for a decent plywood and master the edge cutting with a new blade on your circular saw then either use wood filler, pine edge piece or iron on edge strip to finish it.

Looks to be missing a digit, so proof of work not accepted - recon you may have abused a nonce - did you increment your nonce correctly. Means that @pocster is probably looking at a different picture - so no wonder he does lot like it.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us!

Thats a checklist item right there. We have loads of power failures here, not so much in the new place, every one causes problems. Wonder what else would / should be on the don't buy unless it can meet these challenges list?

9-10Kw will probably be enough and I suspect the electrician will have had this sort of size in mind.

If you do the kiosk idea to the left of tge drive you can take all ducts to the plant room and then over to the garage. We split the power in the kiosk and have isolation switches so we can isolate either building, we have a garden room not a garage but it has a 9kw shower and that works fine at 40m from the kiosk we did both runs in 10mm. We also ran ducts for water, gas (and installed track pipe which we wont use now) and comms. So our fibre comms comes to the kiosk and we have a 1Gb switch of our own which then takes the feeds to the two buildings and allows me to connect front cameras and control external lighting from there also.

Makes sense but is an interesting form of words that made me think about the future. I guess most families will need more that one car charger (it) - for their second car or for overnight guests or any guests who won't get home on what they have left in the 'Tank' (battery) so it will become 'they' and then you are into wondering about how to lay them out. We had planned one on our build but now I am wondering how to install two of them - maybe the second on a post the other side of the parking bay. Then I am wondering if my 100A (1ph) supply will be enough!

Yes - a very interesting DB, found our new property on it and noticed that the plot is shown on the OS map in its new form, first I have seen it, Google maps still shows the old.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Looks like an interesting project - if you will pardon the pun - keep digging

This insurance stuff feels broadly correct in that you have handed the build to them and until it is signed off they are responsible for the building site - which is not a dwelling. You might look at ending the contract early so you get the house back but you may need to pay for that and you would then need some sort of insurance yourself. You may be able to live in a caravan on the site however as you could agree to partition that section off.