MikeSharp01

Any vapour between the Intello and the PIR can come back into the building as Intello is designed to be humidity variable so if its its damper on the PIR side than in the room the vapour comes back seasonally. Good info and video here: https://proclima.com/products/internal-sealing/intello/how-it-works#sub_navigation

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. Sounds like a great project but not without its challenges, good luck.

Welcome to THE forum for people like us! What a deliciously simple setup you have installed and it sounds like the house overall works well. The amount of pipe in slab is quite low, some may say too low but the proof may be in some of the other things you tell us, but again that seems to be working if you can get the temperature up as you describe so all you need now is to get control of it. 1. It does not sound like you need a manifold but, see 4 below, you probably need to check the floor temperatures across the two zones to check they are even. 2. One stat will be fine, NEST is a good system but naturally it comes with the Big TECH downsides of privacy etc. You may need to control the water temperature at the Willis so you don't end up with the water temperature running away. This will control the air temperature - however you may also want / need to control the water temperature / slab temperature. 3. Cannot see a massive need for run on, what would that do or not do once the heat is off nothing will get any warmer. 4. Several things. A. The slab is at the water temperature (I think JS Harris had his at about 23) if that is even then all is well, sort of, you have the Willis water temp stat controlling the slab. B. The water is all flowing round the shortest loop and as it is so short it does not have the contact time to give up its heat to the slab - hence check the slab temps but you may improve things by playing with the pump speed. C. This may then lead to the need for a manifold to balance the two loops. All need you to find out how close the actual slab temperature is to the water temperature you are putting in and how the two zones are balanced (Some balancing might be achieved using the ball valves you have although this would be relatively crude.

Thanks all. Yes interesting views and ideas there. The constraints (overall size) are somewhat fixed so I have to be smart to max out the internals, in most places I can use the standard wall its just those two places, If I can get the extra I can get the washing machine and a 600mm butler sink otherwise I am going for a smaller sink! I get the mass and vibration thing so I will take what you have all said and see what I can do with proprietary products and go from there.

I am working on a couple of walls in the utility room and have spotted that I could get back a bit of space if I can get the wall thickness down to 50mm, they are currently planned to be 140mmm, (surface to surface) anybody done such a thing and still got reasonable sound proofing. Essentially the walls needed are those around two insets into the utility room space for ovens on one side and cloak cupboard on the other. Shown as Magenta in attached sketch. I want to stop any noise from Washing Machine, or other noisy aspects of the utility room, getting through the magenta walls but get them as thin as possible. Anybody got any experience that might help here?

Sounds good - where were the leaky bits? We are just about to install the Intello and would be interested in hints one where it goes wrong easily. I like the OSB crusher idea I have put OSB backing where I think the joints will come outside the frame studs / rafters so I have something to push against.

And the reading was?

Makes more sense. Somewhat tongue in cheek on my part!

Smart lamps a great in their place but I feel that they are just one way to go not the only way. Actually on reflection there is very little that is ever the only way to go as we need to have our creativity about us and of course you can still connect a smart bulb via a 5A (or 2A) socket and have the best of both worlds.

With that build up you perhaps don't need it because you will have ventilation above the insulation under the breather membrane / slates and the plaster will breath either way but the PIR won't so it will be air tight. One assumes that whoever purchases these houses will have their legal team go through the hygrodynamic analysis to be sure there is no dew point risk - their mortgage companies surveyor (if they need one) will. On another note can I see past the frame to the outside on the mid left of the frame or is it a trick of the light?

Sounds interesting on a number of fronts. 1. Controlling a 13Amp socket from a light switch feels like (is) the wrong thing to do - the power handling requirements don't match. 2. Who, in the middle of the night, wants to wake up, fumble for their glasses, find their phone, load the app, locate the lamp (from the 54 others in the house) and turn on the wifi lamp, only to discover that the cloud server running the WiFi lamp from lord knows where is off line for maintenance, OR alternatively, shout 'Alexa turn my bedside lamp on please' thus waking the partner / kids / dog and it won't work anyway because Alexa cannot distinguish your voice from anybody else's without a lot of work and then you have to remember to always sleep on the same side of the bed! 3. There was a third but I lost my thread sorting the second. A simple switch, or double - one by the bed and the other at the door, feeding the 5A socket sounds so much simpler. Naturally you can, alternatively, feed each switch back to your homes CNS (Central Nervous System) and let the Rasberry Pi / Loxone / ???? send the signal to the SSR (Solid State Relay) then wire it back to the socket - many options then become available, none of which you will ever use although maybe, in the future, when you have moved out a Gentleman or Lady of the night might find the whole control possibilities thing amusing either for them or their client(s). Anyway - keep it stupidly simple (KISS - remember. AND yes I know that is not the right way to define KISS but implied insults, on a day like today, seem so unnecessary.)

To be fair hygrodynamics is something of a mystery to most people - including me and some construction professors of my acquaintance! About the only working out on our build I didn't feel comfortable doing was the WuFi analysis, partly because I could not lay my hands on the full version of the software, but mainly because interpretation of the output is not remotely simple unless you have a lot of experience. One is left falling back on the old adages of good ventilation (if it does condense it can dry out) either outwards or inwards and if the latter might be useful then the correct membrane / structure is needed - hence perhaps the move from polythene to Pro Clima Intello Plus or similar and of course plaster breaths both ways I guess.

That is what I expected but thought I would check. Many thanks.

So should work the same for a cr4edit card order - you didn't have to request the refund it just happens?

Did Latzel do all the VAT calcs - IE drop EU VAT and we pay the VAT when it gets here? Sounds like they did. I need 2 x 150m2 AND 1 x 75m2 Pro Clima + tapes.

Interesting, just about to order ours - looks like I need to do some more research before I do!

How will you achieve air tightness - plaster?

Right to light is complex but a few things are clear enough. The people only gain a right to light after a number of years (20) getting light into their house through apertures (windows but could be other) in their house, its the people not the house that gets the right to light. If you restrict the light they can seek compensation or ask you to remove the obstruction and even if you get planning they can still seek right to light compensation - planning cannot override the right to light. If they have not lived there for 20 years you don't have a problem with right to light. The planning rules also apply as @Mr Punterpoints out.

217 Pages though! From a quick scan a good read but does not answer @ToughButterCup 's question. Essentially the mix has changed and it would be good to know if that has had a positive impact or negative impact. I guess looking back at the history of generation output would tell you all you wanted to know. Looks like the peak was 2004 and trending down from there. Source: Wikipedia - Contains Parliamentary information licensed under the Open Parliament Licence v3.0, OPL 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=114303524

Oh yes loads on here - big arguments, was fun to watch, the two sides coming at from opposite ends of two different sticks! Looking here will give you the chance to see if you can hold two ideas (the ideas of heating and feeling warm) in your head at once and still function (F. Scott Fitzgerald's test of a first-rate intelligence) - it went way beyond me!

Cook out to help out - why not? Get the food out of their fridges and cook it on your prems, or invite the residents for breakfast at your place - best good Samaritan tradition.

Slightly! The +ve and -ve air tests are quite tame (60 Pascals (pa) either way) by comparison to a 90mph gale hitting the window. I think - my first coffee is only just settling in, that a back of fag packet tells me that a 90mph gust hitting a 6m2 window has a dynamic pressure of around 900 pa or 20 Ibs/ft2 or around 500Kg pushing on the window.

Disk - whats a disk?

Yes I thought that and that would overcome the issue from @saveasteading and save me a bunch of slates. I can also screw the bottom under eaves slates to the battens to prevent rattling.

its 150mm off the ground at the bottom.