MikeSharp01

Interesting read...

The LG units recently highlighted here have scroll compressors by the looks of it.

NO - "The moral of that story is when viewing as house, get the current owner to go to the the middle of each room and jump up and down......"

How does this situation work with full filled rafter builds - like ours which are 300mm deep and will very shortly be filled with warmcell then battened over and plaster boarded to create the vaulted ceilings, so none of our rafters will be inspectable either?

You could run your ASHP in reverse and feed the cold water around the UFH to cool things down and perhaps add an online cooling battery to the MVHR but you cannot get much cooling at 'MVHR flow rates. JS Harris showed the the UFH cooling was effective in his build.

But there is heat loss so ensure you get a very well insulated one.

?????

There is free software to help with this - https://www.dialux.com/en-GB/download

its got a 35% movement factor hence the jelly feel.

Very interesting numbers - Did you get any impression for the average COP of the Heat Pump.

I was always told by a famous - now rather late, professor who taught me a thing or two that one should never go into any electronic situation without a pocket full of diodes - 1N4001 is my usual tipple but then I am a bit AC/DC.

Sounds like a case for some intelligent electronics - surely you can organise a battery management system can deal with these, and other, effects.

Hi and Welcome to THE forum for people like us.

And we look down on people like you ..... from our vantage point on top of the hill!

No - it is just about your attitude to risk: No Glycol / No Valve - Can destroy ASHP, no cost now and won't happen very frequently. (Low likelihood / High Impact) Glycol / No Valve - System safe (you can forget), will restart once disturbance is gone, £160 for the Glycol. (Low Likelihood / Low Impact) No Glycol / Valve - System safe (you can almost forget), system won't restart after disturbance as it will need a fill and flush, £????? for the valve version. (Low Likelihood / Moderate impact) Which suits your risk appetite best?

But only in freezing weather, so about 2 days a decade down here.

Which one did you eventually go for?

I think that means you have boards that are butted up against one another but have no support behind the joint, I guess those at 90deg to the joists. This means they are hanging in the air and so they will move relative to one another and there will be cracks eventually - taping should help but I was once, several times really and many years ago, told by a very old plasterer (Henry Cooper's brother actually) that all board edges must be supported so we put battens behind the cross joints as well to make him happy. They don't necessarily need to be anchored anywhere as they just ensure there is no chance of relative movement between the boards. There are no cracks in any of his plastering on our boards 20 years on.

My idea to make our seal is to use a bead of Orcon F or simlar to seal the airtight membrane to the floor nail a batten onto the soleplate about 10mm above the floor and put an Illbrook expanding seal along in the gap to force the membrane down onto the orcon F and close any gaps.

Yes tell the agent that for sure. Or something like "It seems to me that cut ridges are smaller than required from my understanding of the NHBC requirements".

Excellent to see the drawing with its annotation. You probably need to get a big washer (maybe 80-100mm dia) under the cap of the M16 resin anchor to avoid it just pulling through if it ever gets under load and if the timber has weakened as @TonyT points out it will very easily.

I think I get what you are trying to do can I ask a couple of questions. Do you have any housewrap type building paper on the outside of the timber cassette that can lap over the top of the red board to stop and water running behind the red board? (There will be a serious dew point issue behind the gladding anyway.) The red board will need to be impervious and very robust, so plastic come to mind and and joins will need careful attention. Have you considered wrapping the base, up both sides, of the cassette in some sort of membrane although this will be a moisture trap you might be able make it breath upwards?

Not sure I have not missed something but what stops you using your GSHP to circulate water through the GHT (http://www.ght.lv/home/) and not bother with the brine loop and presumably when needed in the summer you can cool the air that same way. You are payng some energy to run the brine loop after all. The 8KwH exchanger looks like a beast you could air condition a moderate place with that although perhaps not via MVHR. The sorts of flow rates the average MVHR can manage (Say 100m3Hr in a 3 bed Passive house) that unit would only deliver about 1kW of cooling but you might squeeze that to 2kW in boost mode. 2kW would be getting close to enough for many a passive house standard places around here but there are loads of other factors aren't there.

LINK!

Yes but you could compensate for that as well. We need to get to a circular economy if we can everywhere we can.